505 SRDT clutch replacement

Just got to keep looking. I look hours upon hours at eBay France eBay uk. EBay Australia won’t have much. Got to look OS. Took me 3 years to find a sunroof handle for dads LTI 504,
I’m still looking 4years later for a 505 v6 badge.


Or you can get the clutch plate re- surfaced. That’s what you’ve got to do to v6 clutches now a days.
 
Just got to keep looking. I look hours upon hours at eBay France eBay uk. EBay Australia won’t have much. Got to look OS. Took me 3 years to find a sunroof handle for dads LTI 504,
I’m still looking 4years later for a 505 v6 badge.


Or you can get the clutch plate re- surfaced. That’s what you’ve got to do to v6 clutches now a days.
I believe you should have at least one 505 V6 badge there.... I can get it scanned and 3D printed to make more.
 
Thanks for that. Do you know if, in the 215mm kit, the thrust bearing is the same as the Turbo?

I suspect the clutch pressure and friction will probably be OK as there are no symptoms. It is just a very noisy thrust bearing...
 
I believe you should have at least one 505 V6 badge there.... I can get it scanned and 3D printed to make more.
Yes one that’s rough I want one for all the v6 505s and 504s

Got someone onto 3D printing. Genuine always better.
 
Thanks for that. Do you know if, in the 215mm kit, the thrust bearing is the same as the Turbo?

I suspect the clutch pressure and friction will probably be OK as there are no symptoms. It is just a very noisy thrust bearing...
Depends on the clutch fork in the car now.
 
Maybe.. I can’t remember the diesel clutch fork think there the same as gti 505. There wider. Can’t remember. Yours a 2.5 or 2.3?
 
I found one in UK which lists the specs:
diameter: 235
diameter 2: 228

I guess 235 is the pressure plate and 228 the friction?
 
228 diametre is supposed to be v6. Splines are different
Stick to the 235mm as it needs it from the torque and turbo boost.

All I can suggest really.
 
I think I'll pull the engine and measure things before I buy..

Any tips for undoing the top bellhousing bolt? I managed to get a 10mm allen key up there, but no way I could get enough leverage to crack it!
 
I think I'll pull the engine and measure things before I buy..

Any tips for undoing the top bellhousing bolt? I managed to get a 10mm allen key up there, but no way I could get enough leverage to crack it!
Good idea if you’re not sure. Worst case you can get that one re done.
Get some petrol head bolts and lower the cross member and do everything from underneath.

You can do it with engine in but alot easier engine out. Very heavy engine so make sure your straps are quality. I use seat belt material.
 
Valeo part number 801222 or 06 10 801222

I brought one for a customer I’m about to do. But they had none left after this one.

Tried posting pic not no luck.




Here’s the link for one. If you don’t buy it I will. That’s cheap.
 
Thanks for the tip Ben.

I have been talking with someone about sourcing one but I will consider the eBay one and let you know.

I figured the cross member could be lowered.. I'll use chains and excavator to lift it out
 
OK, I have the old clutch out and the correct replacement kit at hand.

I removed the radiator and condenser and decided to try to do the clutch without fully removing the engine (horrible job; give me a Citroen DS to work on any day!)

It is very difficult to see the spigot bearing - can someone please confirm whether it is a bearing or a bush in the flywheel centre?

As I suspected, the friction plate was in perfect condition and the machined surfaces show no signs of wear. The thrust bearing was siezed solid and has worn a groove in the pressure fingers.

In situ, the fork looks perfectly OK and I intend do re-use it, however is there any reinforcement recommended? Such as running a mig bead along the area which cracks? Or just check carefully and grease?

Cheers, Steve
 
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