308 Petrol Turbo not starting. Cranks a couple of times then just cuts out.

Update ;

I removed the crankshaft sensor after finally finding it.

On checking the voltages to the sensor, there was 5v but no 12v

I have also realized the headlights do not turn on (though the high beam does), the wipers do not turn on, nor does the radio, nor do the indicators, or the internal cabin fan. The horn does work. Console cluster lights do.

There is clearly a 12v line faulty somewhere.

I checked the voltages directly from the battery at the exit points from the circuit board that sits in front of the battery and they all look fine.

Working my way through wiring diagrams.

Cheers
 
Krammig said:
Update ;

I removed the crankshaft sensor after finally finding it.

On checking the voltages to the sensor, there was 5v but no 12v

I have also realized the headlights do not turn on (though the high beam does), the wipers do not turn on, nor does the radio, nor do the indicators, or the internal cabin fan. The horn does work. Console cluster lights do.

There is clearly a 12v line faulty somewhere.

I checked the voltages directly from the battery at the exit points from the circuit board that sits in front of the battery and they all look fine.

Working my way through wiring diagrams.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Economy mode - lights, radio, wipers, windows, fans etc won't be activated until vehicle started and car will no longer in economy mode
 
I bit the bullet yesterday and ordered a crankshaft sensor just for the heck of it. Just put it in 30 mins ago, unfortinately though no go. Will continue to dig deeper.

Cheers
 
What about real back to basics, fuel level too low. One of our 308s showed 60k range remaining 1st completely died and wouldn't start.

Even rolling to a level surface.

Had to add 10l before it would restart. 5l it wouldn't start. Ever since then we don't let any of the 308s get below 60k range
 
dimistyle said:
What about real back to basics, fuel level too low. One of our 308s showed 60k range remaining 1st completely died and wouldn't start.

Even rolling to a level surface.

Had to add 10l before it would restart. 5l it wouldn't start. Ever since then we don't let any of the 308s get below 60k range
Click to expand...
Thanks, Interesting, will check that.
I did check the fuel pressure and that was 380 if I remember correctly and then jumped up when turning the engine over. Will double check my figures, but at the test valve just before the fuel rail there was fuel in the line.
 
A short update

I have just tried the following ;

Reconnected the battery after leaving it disconnected overnight. Radio works, Headlights work, no Economy Mode message.
I happened then to put it in Drive and the Economy Mode kicked in again which I assume is expected. Will leave the battery off for an hour and see if that resets it.

What I also tried was removing the battery from the key fob and turning over the engine. Interestingly a message appeared on the console - "Electronic Anti Theft Faulty"
I then put the battery back in and that message did not appear again.
Can I assume by this that the RFID part of the key is working and talking to the Key Receptical and BSI correctly ?

Haven't checked the fuel suggestion yet, will do shortly.
 
Key battery is only for remote door locking/unlocking - the security chip does not use the battery - at least that's the case in my 20+ year old cars.
 
I'm guessing you pulled the complete PCB out from the key not just the battery. The RFID does not require power.
But yes if no immobilizer/anti theft error the key has been recognised.

The trick is to also leave the key in for 10sec turn off and then try to start the car to ensure the key is synced with BSI
 
It sounds as if you did not wait long enough after reconnecting the battery before touching the car (eg, opening a door). The computer systems need time to boot to the normal state before sensors start sending information for action. As dimistyle suggests, turn the ignition on, don't start, and wait a while for the immobiliser to be ready identifying the key. It usually works normally after that.
 
Here is a question for you Folks,

The engine bay Fuse Box.

Should all fuses have 12v on them when the key is in the first notch position ?

This is what I am seeing here ;

a)
I removed the engine fuse box and based on the circuit diagram, checked consistency from the 12v input to the various fuses. Everything checked out.

b)
Fuse box back in the car, no cables attached to the fuse box, 12v line connected.
I checked for 12v on all fuses. All showed 12v

c)
I then connected just the large teo prong connector next to fuse 11.

All fuses showed voltages in mV except F1, F3, F8, F11, F12

As mentioned all other were pulled down to odd mV values. Actually not quite all. F15, F16, F17, F18 (headlights) were all 5v roughly.

d)
I then removed that mentioned connector, and plugged in the yellow multi pinned connector that sits just beliw F14 (empty fuse socket in this car).

Results were the same at in c)

e)
Removed the above mentioned yellow connector and connected the First loom connector, top left.

Again the same results as c)


I find this confusing given according to the circuit diagram, as far as I can tell, at the very least, the following fuses should all show 12v as they are all directly connected to the 12v main rail.

Reading down the page ;
F1, F12, F4, F2, F8, F3, F11

So why then would F2 and F4 not show 12v, not to mention several of the others ?

Appreciate your thoughts on the above
Cheers
 
Would anyone happen to know if I could swap out the engine fuse box BSM for a close match on part number ?

For example mine is 9666700580 BSM-R06

and I can get one that is 9666700480 BSM-R05

Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top