306 GTI6 Clutch issue

F

Franky

New member
Tadpole
Tadpole
Joined
Apr 5, 2013
Messages
9
Location
sydney
Hello all,
I have an GTI6, It has been off the road for a few years and I'm very happy to have it running and back on the road.
An old issue as resurfaced unfortunately and I'm looking for some direction and advice:

- The clutch pedal becomes "Floppy" when stuck in traffic. Hard to describe, but the pedal itself does not fully return. - I have removed the spring assist in the pedal with better feel but the issue still happens when in stop start traffic.
- I had the cable replaced before she went into hibernation and the issues remains. (Not sure if the new cable is genuine or not)
My thinking is that the cable may sieze when in hot conditions resulting in it not returning.
Do I bite the bullet and go for a new clutch? Or is there something I'm missing?

Ps I'm no mechanic but will give it a crack and willing to learn. I also know when I'm out of my depth....
Thx for any advise
 
To add to the above, the clutch itself feels OK. Bites fine and doesn't judder etc.
Worst case I had, the cable came of the pedal itself leaving me stranded.
 
Your info is a bit confusing. How does removing the pedal spring improve "feel" and is it not unproductive to remove the spring if you want the pedal to return?

I would suggest you need to first isolate whwre the problem is. Is it the pedal? the cable? or the clutch? Disconnecting stuff and operating each in isolation might provide the clue.
 
The 306 uses a self adjusting cable. It's possible the adjuster is damaged, dry or seized if it doesn't return.
 
Yeah OK. Cheers for the reply.
Could I try lubricating the cable do you think? It feels fine most the time just when I'm in traffic it emerges.
I might try another cable and see how that goes
 
thx Shlitzaugen. I have read on other forums that the spring assist on the pedal was a recall or advised to remove. https://306oc.co.uk/forum/archive/index.php?thread-11543.html
After removing, it did make the clutch feel smoother through operation. The pedal still returns fine in normal situations.
Sorry for the confusing info but as I said it is a confusing issue to describe and that is why I've posted for any advice and hoping someone may have a similar issue.
 
Last edited:
Franky said:
thx Shlitzaugen. I have read on other forums that the spring assist on the pedal was a recall or advised to remove. https://306oc.co.uk/forum/archive/index.php?thread-11543.html
After removing, it did make the clutch feel smoother through operation. The pedal still returns fine in normal situations.
Sorry for the confusing info but as I said it is a confusing issue to describe and that is why I've posted for any advice and hoping someone may have a similar issue.
Click to expand...
I drove my XSi without the spring assist for years. I had the same issue once, the plastic retaining clip somewhere up in the footwell snapped leaving me with a flaccid pedal.
New cable to rectify but I removed the spring at the same time. I had also just done a clutch and associated parts so everything wash fresh. Never had an issue afterwards and had better clutch feel without the spring.

If it happens you should be able to lift the pedal up back into position. And if your battery is healthy you can start in gear and carefully drive home/safe spot without the clutch.
 
lowpugV2 said:
I drove my XSi without the spring assist for years. I had the same issue once, the plastic retaining clip somewhere up in the footwell snapped leaving me with a flaccid pedal.
New cable to rectify but I removed the spring at the same time. I had also just done a clutch and associated parts so everything wash fresh. Never had an issue afterwards and had better clutch feel without the spring.

If it happens you should be able to lift the pedal up back into position. And if your battery is healthy you can start in gear and carefully drive home/safe spot without the clutch.
Click to expand...
Thx Lowpug, I appreciate any advice.
I have a bit of leftover funds from her getting back on the road (its going quickly :( ) and getting a priority list done. It has been up and down that's for sure but I love my 306. I was hoping for a quick fix for this but now I may go for a new cable, clutch kit etc.
Now, I guess the topic may go down another path, but if I were to go with a new clutch setup what else should be done whilst the gearbox is off? Valeo Clutch best option? Machined flywheel or should I go for a lightened or Original?
Sorry, I have loads of questions.
It will be my daily at some point (I hope).
 
Franky said:
Thx Lowpug, I appreciate any advice.
I have a bit of leftover funds from her getting back on the road (its going quickly :( ) and getting a priority list done. It has been up and down that's for sure but I love my 306. I was hoping for a quick fix for this but now I may go for a new cable, clutch kit etc.
Now, I guess the topic may go down another path, but if I were to go with a new clutch setup what else should be done whilst the gearbox is off? Valeo Clutch best option? Machined flywheel or should I go for a lightened or Original?
Sorry, I have loads of questions.
It will be my daily at some point (I hope).
Click to expand...
You'll definitely need a machined flywheel to freshen up the surface. I once had a GTi6 with lightened flywheel, not sure how much but it did rev better and was more blippy. Wouldn't say it was 100% needed though. Standard was fine. Always just used standard clutch though.

I'd be spending any funds on refreshed brake lines or even braided lines. Refreshed control arm bushings and make sure the rear beam is in top shape. Oh and a timing belt/water pump.
 
Also, trying to think of the correct parts but I had a very stiff clutch pedal and assumed it was the old cable however it was the clutch release bearing and fork (?) Assembly that was the issue. Basically just worn out
 
lowpugV2 said:
You'll definitely need a machined flywheel to freshen up the surface. I once had a GTi6 with lightened flywheel, not sure how much but it did rev better and was more blippy. Wouldn't say it was 100% needed though. Standard was fine. Always just used standard clutch though.

I'd be spending any funds on refreshed brake lines or even braided lines. Refreshed control arm bushings and make sure the rear beam is in top shape. Oh and a timing belt/water pump.
Click to expand...
cheers lowpug. Timing belt was done about 35000kms ago but was sitting for a few years. better safe than sorry!
I have about 3k for clutch and the timing belt/water pump. brakes are good, bushes are ok but will have to hold up for a few more months until i can go ahead. shocks feel a bit tired but doing the job for now.
Nice to have some direction for now.
thx lowpug
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top