208GTi coolant leak

Dijon16

Active member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
669
Location
Sydney
2014 208 GTi, 70 000km. Careful lady driver. Cough.

During routine check in the garage at home found the coolant expansion bottle empty.

Rolled the car back out and there was an established puddle, light brown watery liquid that tasted effing awful.

Car has not been driven in 5 days, so it is leaking out static.

Jacked it had a look, there was a steady drip, yes just like with gonorrhoea. It was coming off the rounded lower end of what I think would be the cam chain tensioner, although detectable all along the sub-frame.

That it is not to say that the tensioner is involved, just in the path of the drip.

Totally unfamiliar with the plumbing on these. Had the same on the Mi16 and it was that infernal plastic 4-hose distributor on the back of the block. Is this the same setup?

I have a container of green coolant, it is ethylene glycol like the original. If the car has to be driven a short distance I would put that in, although logic says that if it drips from cold, it would come p!ssing out when warm.

There were no alerts or red lights on the dash when last driven, my wife would have told me, I am sure. Cough.

Impeccable timing, as usual. Not. Any hints tips suggestions welcome, including spending some of the current Republic of Southern Northern Beaches lockdown taking off all the plastic dangly bits to try and get a look at the back of the engine block.
 
I have to edit my own post already, before I get flamed.

I thought I better RTFM and the owners handbook mentions nothing about coolant. It is not even listed in the checks.

The small service book lists it as Procor TM108 or Glysantin G33.

The Glysantin website indicates that G30 suits all model Peugeots after 1993 and it is HOAT - hybrid organic acid technology. I have nfi if this is compatible with ethylene glycol.

Looks like G33 is no longer available. And this site said - http://www.chemequal.com/supplier/glysantin-g33

Glysantin G33 is a high-performance coolant manufactured by BASF.It is essentially comprised of ethylene glycol of CAS-Number: 107-21-1 at about 90% - 95 % and inhibitor. Its physical state is of liquid and is of bluish green colour. Glysantin G33 by nature has characteristic Odor and of Density, 20 øC : 1.14 g/cm3. The pH nature of the chemical Glysantin G33 is of pH : 8.4 and this chemical is completely soluble in water.Glysantin G33 manufacturer is Glysantin, a brand of BASF company but there can be plenty of supplier for supplying or exporting of Glysantin G33 substitute or equivalent. Such substitute chemicals are usually of same chemistry types and can benefit the user in economical aspects. Glysantin G33 qualifies and meet the requirement of…

So it would appear to be.
 
:cry:

The current service regime regarding coolant is a pH check (at 60,000km, then every 15k) - only it it fails this does it get replaced, hence nothing in the service schedule.

I think B71 5110 is the PSA spec, if that helps with Google.

You can buy 2.0 litre bottles of Peugeot coolant (ready mixed, not concentrate) from a dealer for a "reasonable" price.
 
208waterpump.jpg
As a bit of an update, for future reference, I had to do some WBR to understand how this is set up,

The water pump pulley freewheels, only engaging when needed via the tensioner. I said it looks like a kind of cam chain tensioner, the black thing in the photo.

I took the water pump pulley off and exposed the leak. Looks to be coming out of a kind of welch plug. You do not change the engine if an engine welch plug leaks, why can this not be resealed?

Anyone had any experience with the EP6 water pump? Looks to be relatively straight forward to replace, I am questioning why replace the whole unit, although I can see the logic to do so.
 
Probably because it's cheaply made and nobody other than the manufacturer of the pump would carry spares.
 
I have been informed that it is possible that the interior seal is gone and this is where it is designed to leak from, a bit like the hole under the 404 water pump.
 
Sounds like a water pump or the pipe that comes from the back across not much else there.
I have been informed that it is possible that the interior seal is gone and this is where it is designed to leak from, a bit like the hole under the 404 water pump.
Yes that’s exactly correct at least it’s not a plastic one that early cars had.
 
As a followup to this, I got a new water pump from the nice man at EAI. As my grease monkey is not back until next week, and there´s a few online tutes about how to do it, I thought I would have a go.

What a cow of a pig of a skunk of a job. Every fiddly or hidden bolt that they could think of is in this job. That´´s the French for you. What is basically maybe two hours of actual work if you know what you are doing is up to 6. Skinned knuckles and broken nails are the order of the day.

Why I am posting is that I am having trouble to fit something. The water pump pulley, which should just bolt on, is not sitting on its spindle by about 2mm. It is pressing against the drive wheel, which is itself against the crankshaft pulley.

Any wonder they leak if the drive shaft is under pressure from the way the pulleys and drive wheels fit together.

Perhaps the drive wheel is not totally solid and has some give, I dunno. Anyone had any experience putting a 208 water pump pulley back on?

Meant to add that when not in use it freewheels, and could spin by hand before I took it off. I cannot see that happening if it is forced into place.
 
You probably need to release the drive wheel from the drive section - via a little pull out tab on the fwd face.

You should also probably have the accessory belt tensioner in the unlocked position, via its push in pin.

I'll send you the details.
 
Last edited:
6 hours lol we only got 1 to do them under warranty you need to remove the water pump idler all together. Don’t forget to bleed the cooling system correctly ie engage the idler and open the thermostat by free reving the engine over 3200 for at least 45 seconds. Also many people have forgotten to release the tab as mentioned above and cooked the engine.
 
Guys thanks for the input, it was the simplest of fixes after all. Will document here for future reference.

I had follwed this link

https://www.nomaallim.com/ep6-water-pump-replacement.html

which says to take the wp pulley off first, and pull the tab to release. I only had to pull it about 1cm before the pulley was free, so I thought that was all that was needed. The drive belt tensioner plays no part.

The diagram that Simon sent showed the wick all the way out, about 7 or 8cm, so I did that, friction wheel moved away several mm, and the pulley seated no probs.

Couple of notes
- the engage pulley mechanism has 3 10mm bolts, and all were difficult to seat correctly. It may be because there is not much room to get a hand or spanners up there, but it took an hour to seat 3 bolts correctly.
- the top (of 5) wp bolts is the hardest to release as it is under a bracket. To get acess to the 13mm bracket bolt from the top it was very easy, and quick, to take out the wiper bottle filler neck, lifts off in one piece, and unbolt the engine hoist lug, which is a torx. Once bracket unbolted, use a cable tie to keep it out of the way.

DMC I am not clear on why forgetting to release the tab would do harm. If it were not released it would be engaged, and hence function as designed.
 
If you pull the release for the water pump idler the water pump does not spin and the engine over heats I’ve had cars towed in that have had water pumps done and then over heated and the “mechanic “ couldn’t figure it out.
 
I once had the accessory belt replaced during a routine service on my 207 GTi by the Parramatta team (many years and at least two different dealers ago) and when I got home I checked and found the tab out about 3cm.

Thankfully it's only a short drive home from there to here.

Getting access to push the tab back in was quite an effort.
 
omg don't get me started on coolants in the 2 series why are there so much issues with coolant for this range Pug makes?
Lack of care? lack of foresight? lack of QA? not listening?
careful drive like myself with only 47 k from 14 new still have coolant issues despite parked undercover majority 90% of the time. What is wrong with Pug's coolant system in the 2 series?
unlike op's leak mine was virtually invisible, odourless and colourless - it just disappears to where? no one knows - leaving the floor pristine clean, like I said before you could put your face underneath aligned to where the coolant sits and stay there for hours and your face will still be your face.
 
Top