Some months ago I damaged the engine computer in my 206 1.6 litre auto hatch. I deeply regret what I did but I did not expect it to be so hard to obtain a replacement. Over the months the problem has slowly got worse with the car now only used for short trips around Morwell. One consequence was that the computer showed its distress by sending a power burst to the instrument panel and still various gauges do not record accurate figures. The VIN number of the car is VF32CNFUR42824043. Can anyone in the forum advise me what I can do about the problem? Thanks.
206 engine computer problem
- Thread starter John505
- Start date
How did you damage it this model is common for over charging alternators
I was changing the oxygen sensors and got the wiring wrong - unfortunately.
what engine ECU do you need? find a replacement and clone the coding from damaged to replacement unit, several specialist around.
PM if you need contact details of the one I use in NSW.
PM if you need contact details of the one I use in NSW.
It is a Bosch engine computer and I understand that I would a correctly numbered replacement Bosch unit + a BSI + a key code. I live in country Victoria and I don't know any computer experts that could help me. If you can help me I would appreciate it.
Don't waste your time swapping unknown condition ecu + bsi + rfid chip from key and loose your original odometer create more errors from what ever wreak it came from and possibly not matched!!
I can put you in touch with someone that can clone via post has done plenty of PSA ECUs and BSIs for me.
Pull out your ECU get the part number. Find replacement via eBay or wreckers that know what to look for. Post both and they get sent back to you recoded.
Then plug and play like it was prior to shorting out sensor bus.
No need for PP2000 unless the sensor error needs to be cleared but may clear by itself when car is running with all sensors sending correct data.
I have tried to PM you for privacy but they have changed how you do it from what it used to be and I find I cannot do it. Thank you for your help. I shall get a computer with the correct details and get it recoded. I wonder if you could send me an email so we can converse - the address is johnpettiford@outlook.com. That way you could give me your experts address. Thanks
Thanks
NFU in the VIN is a TU5JP4 engine. So it's probably going to be a BOSCH ME7.4.4 ECU.
The engine ECU cant "send a power burst to the instrument panel". The engine ECU is not even directly connected to the instrument cluster. It only sends information (not power) through the CAN lines (via the BSI). In fact the only information sent to the cluster from the engine ECU is the RPM. So I cant see an engine ECU problem causing instrumentation problems. While I wont discount an engine ECU problem (for other reasons), I cant see how it would effect the instrument cluster (apart from the RPM).
So I am bit suspicious of there being an engine ECU problem. At least not from the information given so far.
You said that "Over the months the problem has slowly got worse". What is "the problem"?
If it turns out to be the engine ECU, you will need to get an ECU out of another 'auto' car. In my experience, ECU's from a manual car do not have the ability to "talk" to the auto box.
The engine ECU cant "send a power burst to the instrument panel". The engine ECU is not even directly connected to the instrument cluster. It only sends information (not power) through the CAN lines (via the BSI). In fact the only information sent to the cluster from the engine ECU is the RPM. So I cant see an engine ECU problem causing instrumentation problems. While I wont discount an engine ECU problem (for other reasons), I cant see how it would effect the instrument cluster (apart from the RPM).
So I am bit suspicious of there being an engine ECU problem. At least not from the information given so far.
You said that "Over the months the problem has slowly got worse". What is "the problem"?
If it turns out to be the engine ECU, you will need to get an ECU out of another 'auto' car. In my experience, ECU's from a manual car do not have the ability to "talk" to the auto box.
I bought a code checker after the first time (driving up a hill) the engine went into "limp mode" and the instrument panel showed the engine warning light. This enabled me to cancel the code and drive it normally before I got the next code(!) It is hard to exactly recall over the several months that this has gone on, but fairly soon after the instrument panel became affected. The speedo did two complete loops of the loop and then finally settled at 160kph when the can was at rest. But I continued to drive the car - difficult to assess the speed because although the needle would rotate correctly it did so from the 160kph mark. Over several weeks this progressively changed with the needle dropping back to 65kph when the car was at rest. The tacho gave some similar problems as did the temp gauge finally. Looking on U tube I took the cluster out of the car and attempted to correct the problem, which after several attempts, finally worked with the speedo needle on 5kph with the car at rest. However the temp needle problem has persisted. But apart from the cluster issues, the car has deteriorated in terms of how far you can drive it before it throws a code and goes into limp mode with a very unstable idle. The codes have been many and varied being 3114, 3012, 2054 etc etc. To be honest I can't recall all of them - I know the throttle position sensor was a common one but now is quite rare since I bought a new Bosch throttle unit!
I have become quite determined that it is the engine computer that is the problem, and AFAIK you are correct about needing a computer from an automatic car. It has been a very depressing episode which, at times, is difficult not to beat oneself up about.
Can I suggest you have another look at your whole diagnostic process. I can't image how incorrectly wiring an oxygen sensor could damage an ecu - unless you incorrectly wired it up to a 240V plug in the wall.
People seem to rush to the belief that the ecu is faulty because it doesn't work like they think it should. Quite often it's fully consistent with it's programming but getting some data from somewhere which is causing the odd results. Number one reason for a limp mode on a 206 auto would be a fault in the AL4 auto...
A generic code scanner is probably not going to be good enough to debug your problem - PP2000 may be required. It does seem like there may be multiple faults to find. What can happen is the computer will get bad input and ignore it so you can keep driving until another fault develops that interacts with the first one and results in the computer doing something that seems strange. The other thing with faults in they can be cause or effect. Anti pollution faults can be caused by unburnt fuel due to a fault spark plug or coil pack, for example.
The computer seems to be functioning. Careful, methodical analysis should lead to the fault(s).
People seem to rush to the belief that the ecu is faulty because it doesn't work like they think it should. Quite often it's fully consistent with it's programming but getting some data from somewhere which is causing the odd results. Number one reason for a limp mode on a 206 auto would be a fault in the AL4 auto...
A generic code scanner is probably not going to be good enough to debug your problem - PP2000 may be required. It does seem like there may be multiple faults to find. What can happen is the computer will get bad input and ignore it so you can keep driving until another fault develops that interacts with the first one and results in the computer doing something that seems strange. The other thing with faults in they can be cause or effect. Anti pollution faults can be caused by unburnt fuel due to a fault spark plug or coil pack, for example.
The computer seems to be functioning. Careful, methodical analysis should lead to the fault(s).
Even the cheapest OBD reader can give us error codes, even if it can't interpret them or read sensors. It would be a good start, if you could use yours again.
I can't find 3114 in my list, Another is for a throttle butterfly not returning, possibly related to limp home.
Kim Howe is correct in my view, diagnostics should be repeated. Note them, clear all, and repeat. A new engine computer is an extreme step.
I can't find 3114 in my list, Another is for a throttle butterfly not returning, possibly related to limp home.
Kim Howe is correct in my view, diagnostics should be repeated. Note them, clear all, and repeat. A new engine computer is an extreme step.
If your car had the simpler Bosch MP7.2 ECU it could possibly affect the speedo,
but VIN VF32CNFUR decodes to a 206XR with 16v 1.6 TU5JP4 engine with AL4 Adaptive Auto and Bosch ME7.4.4 ECU, and these AFAIK use CAN to drive the speedo and temp gauges, but depending on your build date there's another variant of the 206 that uses Multiplexed com2000 signals from the BSI to drive the speedo/temp gauges.
Your wiring mishap is more likely to have affected the BSI that provided the power to the oxy sensors.
I would also suggest getting a multimeter to confirm alternator output is 13.8V
Your build date is located on the tyre placard located in the drivers door opening.
Thanks for the information
John505