There doesn’t seem to be any resource on the web that attempts a complete list of the tasks involved to put an XU10J4RS into a 205. I thought that, with the expertise we have on this forum, perhaps we could create one? My idea is that if I set out a list below, perhaps others with expertise could add comments on what I’ve missed out or got wrong. I’ll then update the master list below until it hopefully builds into a useful resource. So here goes…
- Gearbox. Any BE3 gearbox will mate to the XU10J4RS. Most people recommend against the 6 speed from the GTi6 as you lose too much steering lock. Popular wisdom seems to be that a MI16/S16 gearbox gives a good spread of ratios for this engine. Or the Xsara VTS gearbox with pretty much same ratios, but if you use this box [you need diff and selector arm fitting along with cross shaft (Clutch arm) + Speedo drive wheels (Red & White/cream)] [Guys – I’ve grabbed this from a website somewhere –does someone want to confirm/translate/correct what you need for VTS box?] I used the standard S3 1.9 205 GTI gearbox. If using this box, most people seem to recommend lowering the final drive because XU10J4RS is a revier motor than the 1.9. 4.06 (eg, from 1.6 GTI, 405 1.9 carb) seems to be a favoured final drive if you can find one, but I’m using a 3.94 (Australian S1/S2 1.9 GTI).
- Clutch. Use a standard 215mm Mi16/BX16 clutch.
- Exhaust manifold. – Needs to be re-angled or it will hit the firewall. Peter T/Adrian W can supply a wedge plate to mount between the head and the manifold to angle it. Instead of this, the UK guys cut through the exhaust manifold branches from underneath with a 5mm thick grinder disc until you can bend the exhaust down to take up the 5mm gap then re-weld it to create a re-angled manifold. Cam85 and Pug1Off use a third option by extending the bottom mount fork by 17mm to effectively tilt the whole engine to make the exhaust manifold clear. This last option may also assist with the master cylinder clearance problem. Fit the exhaust manifold before putting the engine in.
- Exhaust system. You’ll need to make up a shortened downpipe. Find the top of the downpipe from a donor 306 to mate correctly with the XU10J4RS manifold. Also weld in a Lambda boss for O2 sensor if you will be using the original ECU or aftermarket engine management that uses O2. A standard 1.9 exhaust is 1.75”.
- Radiator clearance. The GTi6 inlet manifold will hit the radiator, so radiator needs to be moved forward slightly. If you are removing the AC condenser there should be room for this. I kept AC, which required custom mounts and slimline fans.
- Master cylinder clearance. The master cylinder tends to foul between cam belt cover and cam cover. Various solutions are to lower the engine with modified engine mounts (see below), tilt the master cylinder by shimming the lower mounts, or tilt the whole engine (see above). If you're not too fussy about hit it looks, the UK guys seem more pragmatic – Pug1Off offered the following advice: “Remove the rear top cambelt cover and trim out an area for the master cylinder to drop into – also grind the exhaust cam rocker cover half way through the thread and plastic coil cover for same reason”.
- Engine mounts. You need a top mount from a 2.0 litre 405. Baker BM offers GrpN Engine Mounting Kit with stiffer rubber. This increases transmission of vibration but controls engine movement a bit to help with the master cylinder and radiator clearance problems. To help with the master cylinder clearance (assuming you don’t want to just cut holes in the cam and cam belt covers) people also drop the whole engine by about 10mm. This requires using a Vibratechnics top engine mount that can be pulled apart and cut down by 10mm internally, modifying the rear engine mount fork (to make it a “z” shape so it bolts up to the engine 10mm lower) and make up a spacer to space the gearbox mount down 10mm. On my car, Huw has tilted the master cylinder out of the way with shims so we will be running standard engine mounts and hope this avoids too much vibration.
- Diff. Most people recommend a limited slip diff– usual recommendation for road is a Quaife.
- ECU. If you use the standard ECU you need to ensure it is unlocked. This can be achieved by unplugging the ECU from the donor car while the ignition is on so the ECU doesn’t lock. If you use a Haltech ECU, be aware that, for some reason, the Heltech doesn't seem to drive the Peugeot stepper motor.
- Wiring loom – The engine loom and ECU from the 205 need to be removed to be modified. This requires pulling the dash out enough to be able to pull the whole thing back from around the steering column. Remove 205 ECU and tachometric relay. Notes on converting the wiring loom if you are using the standard ECU can be found here: Gti-6 Engine Loom Wiring Guide / Help Information - XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades - 205GTIDrivers.com .
- Accessory belt. Most people remove the AC, so you need a non AC pulley and shorter drive belt. Many people also fit an alloy drive pulley to reduce rotating mass and eliminate the possibility of slippage in the OE rubber/metal sandwich unit.
- Water hoses. Baker BM make a kit of hoses to suit XU10J4RS into a 205 conversion.
- Thermostat adapter – The top hose connection on the XU10J4RS is different to the 205. You need an adaptor to allow you to use the 205 thermostat piece in the conversion – Baker BM supply one with their conversion hose kit.
- Oil pressure adapter. The 205 has a pressure gauge but the XU10J4RS doesn't have a sensor, so people use the 205 sensor, with a thread adapter to fit it (eg, available from pugracing-Miles).
- Oil/water heat exchanger - Most people remove it and run just the oil filter, or use an aftermarket oil cooler like a Mocal. If you retain the oil/water heat exchanger you will need to plumb this into the radiator hoses. The Baker BM kit doesn't include this.
- Speedo drive. If you are using the standard ECU from the XU10J4RS, it requires an input from a digital speed sensor. The 205, however, uses a cable. You therefore need an S16 speedo VSS that has both the electronic and cable drive, unlike the 205 GTI one that has just the mechanical cable drive.
- Speedo cable. You need a longer speedo cable to be able to route it away from the GTI6 headers - 405 speedo cable or custom.
- Tacho. Tacho output from the standard ECU won’t drive the 205 tacho. Pug1off offers a rev counter amp (£35) or see http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/te...5-gti-tacho-modification-aftermarket-ecu.html
- Power steering. Use the high pressure hose from the XU10J4RS. Reservoir will need to be relocated to make room for an air cleaner.
- Fuel Lines – need to be re-routed
- Air filter. Air filter needs 76mm silicon hose coming off the inlet. Most people use a cone fitted on the end of that – often turned down to face down to the road.
- Throttle cable - 405 throttle cable or Pug universal.
- Charcoal canister – Take the electric purge valve from the 306 that can be driven by the ECU to replace the vacuum operated valve on a 205.
- Brakes. This is a separate topic, but better brakes with more power seems a good idea. UK guys all seem to use GTi6 brakes on the front. A number of guys on this forum favour 266mm front brakes from a 206GTi 136 or a 306 or various other PSA vehicles.
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