Congratulations from the Renault camp..........your car looks great.
203 in progress
- Thread starter luthier
- Start date
What a treat to have the Renault response. Thankyou mister Floride.
So I hope you will enjoy these next lot now that the doors are fitted.
Wow it's a tricky thing getting those hinges to interlock.
Managed it almost seamlessly, but still the obligatory chip in the sill on one side. Bugger.
Can't wait for the next phase, the rubbers and the windows.
So I hope you will enjoy these next lot now that the doors are fitted.
Wow it's a tricky thing getting those hinges to interlock.
Managed it almost seamlessly, but still the obligatory chip in the sill on one side. Bugger.
Can't wait for the next phase, the rubbers and the windows.
You will only ever be allowed to view my car at a distance. Or in a dim light. Unrestored so all the blemishes of 60 years. Applies to the owner too.
Russell, I'm sure when you get to see Toots in person you'll notice enough blemishes and probably little dings from sticks and mud and stuff , to make you feel quite comfortable.
I ain't no oil painting meself. Just an old hippy.:banana:
I ain't no oil painting meself. Just an old hippy.:banana:
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The best colour combination I ever saw was on a ?65 Fiat 124-Probably a similar blue & red leather[?] seats. It should look stunning when 'the cook has done her bit.
i have always queried clear over a solid colour when it was specifically designed for metallic paint & to my observation was never a factory finish over a straight colour-in fact I have seen many a car devalued as the panel shop has put clear over a perfect paint match only to darken the repaired works colour.
Just an aside -I have never met Dino but is anyone sure that he looks like that?????
Keep up the good work.
i have always queried clear over a solid colour when it was specifically designed for metallic paint & to my observation was never a factory finish over a straight colour-in fact I have seen many a car devalued as the panel shop has put clear over a perfect paint match only to darken the repaired works colour.
Just an aside -I have never met Dino but is anyone sure that he looks like that?????
Keep up the good work.
I've been fitting rubbers of late. No probs with the quarter vents apart from quite a lot of cutting to fit, when I was expecting to be getting the right thing, but as I got all the door rubbers on the doors became very hard to close. In fact they have to be severely slammed to make the full closure.
As it is this is unacceptable but I'm hoping the rubber will compress over a small amount of time.
These rubbers were purchased from Spectrum Rubber and are of generic type. So are all the rubbers they sent me. I am less than pleased about this as it wasn't explained to me before I forked out a fair bit of dough. The door rubbers are made with a piece that has to be torn out, leaving a 'U' or an 'n' depending on how you fix it. Lucky I showed them to Mal as there was no accompanying explanation as to it's use.
Along the tops of the doors I chose to glue it as an 'n' because I figured the other way would collect water. But looking at original rubber it is a one piece extrusion that has less dimension.
The outer weather shield that goes on the door windows is a 'T' shape which is different to the original 'L' but having fitted one I'm happy with that.
Anyone used that generic door stuff? Have I done something wrong or will it eventually become a civilized door close?
As it is this is unacceptable but I'm hoping the rubber will compress over a small amount of time.
These rubbers were purchased from Spectrum Rubber and are of generic type. So are all the rubbers they sent me. I am less than pleased about this as it wasn't explained to me before I forked out a fair bit of dough. The door rubbers are made with a piece that has to be torn out, leaving a 'U' or an 'n' depending on how you fix it. Lucky I showed them to Mal as there was no accompanying explanation as to it's use.
Along the tops of the doors I chose to glue it as an 'n' because I figured the other way would collect water. But looking at original rubber it is a one piece extrusion that has less dimension.
The outer weather shield that goes on the door windows is a 'T' shape which is different to the original 'L' but having fitted one I'm happy with that.
Anyone used that generic door stuff? Have I done something wrong or will it eventually become a civilized door close?
everyone I know who has used those door rubbers has same problem
the rubbers take a long time to squash
a light hollow O section seems to work well or the grey foam pipe insulation cut to suit
does not look original but works OK
check that the vertical rubber on the B pillar is not cause of hard door closing
I used a softer section there it seemed to help
if you want your screens not to leak advise using a mastic.
it is possible to add it later either way is messy
cheers
the rubbers take a long time to squash
a light hollow O section seems to work well or the grey foam pipe insulation cut to suit
does not look original but works OK
check that the vertical rubber on the B pillar is not cause of hard door closing
I used a softer section there it seemed to help
if you want your screens not to leak advise using a mastic.
it is possible to add it later either way is messy
cheers
Bugger. I spoke to them and they say if it's still like that in a week they'll see whay they can do. Sounds like a refund may be the answer and I'll get the right stuff from Germany. Funny how they forgot to tell me everything was generic till after I'd paid them about $700.
Doors were closing fine with just that section in place.
Yeah I thought so. The originals are all fairly well sealed with some hard grey stuff. I thought I'd just lift the flap and run round afterwards with the mastic. By the way, I'm getting screen rubbers from germany as Spectrum has been saying they'll get them in about a week since about last November. Lucky, I wouldn't want to be dealing with dodgy screen rubbers. Dodgy door ones are bad enough. Nearly a day's work fitting them so far and the same stuff on the boot is just not too good either. It looks like it probably seals but it pushes the lid out so the alignment is worse than I was hoping for. Bugger.
as you say, b........... r
tho not my preferred supplier
Obriens reckon they have a "better" screen rubber, but they want to install it for $
they did a mates rear window on early 203 seemed ok to me
could not see the difference
cheers
tho not my preferred supplier
Obriens reckon they have a "better" screen rubber, but they want to install it for $
they did a mates rear window on early 203 seemed ok to me
could not see the difference
cheers
Luthier,
Use a silicone spray on your new rubbers to ease closing.
We used this treatment on new cars when doing pre-delivery. We achieved good flush fitting doors this way.
Use a silicone spray on your new rubbers to ease closing.
We used this treatment on new cars when doing pre-delivery. We achieved good flush fitting doors this way.
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I got the correct section door rubber from Neoretro (France) for my 203 wagon. At 48.50 euros for 14 metres it was nearly half the price Spectrum wanted.
Still waiting for a windscreen rubber from Spectrum - they said six weeks four weeks ago.
Still waiting for a windscreen rubber from Spectrum - they said six weeks four weeks ago.
Well I've given up on Spectrum and will instead be ordering from here:
www.veteranen-fischer.de
They seem to have a lot of good stuff to suit our cars and they have an English section of their website.
I'm now regretting not getting it all from there.
Wildebeest,
Does the silicone spray soften the rubber up to allow it to compress more? I have some and will try that if so, thanks.
it allows it to slip and mould in better so it doesn't really let it compress anymore just allows the rubber to move into a place where it wouldn't otherwise move to due to the lack of friction between metal/paint and rubber if that makes any sense
Make sure uuse the silicon very, VERY !!!!!!, sparingly. It was used to fit the lower screen to the 1923 Peugeot Type 175 I owned and every hot day the silicon dripped out of the frame and onto the scuttle below it. Annoyed the **** out of me all the time. I told the bloke in Marseille who bought the car from me about the problem and hope he was able to fix it (maybe they don't get days over 25 so the problem might not arise).
FLASH
FLASH
on door rubbers it wears off over time so it's no biggy
i use it on many things and every so often i have to go back and give it another hit as it does wear off
203 door rubbers.
Luthier,
Wot he said.
Innox is a good product to use.
Flash Car76,
The silicone reccomendation is a spray lube.
Not to be confused with your sealant type.
Luthier,
Wot he said.
Innox is a good product to use.
Flash Car76,
The silicone reccomendation is a spray lube.
Not to be confused with your sealant type.
John,
The problem was that he used the spray stuff and used it copiously. Being a split screen he used it to slide/ease the glass into the rubber from the top (it had no bar across the top so the glass was "open" to fresh air at the top) and as he had replaced the old plate glass with laminated glass it was thicker and so needed a bit of help. The silicone leaked from each corner every time the weather got a bit hot and this thin greasy green line, which was so hard to remove, ran down the scuttle. Looked b****y awful. I owned the car for over 15 years and it did it the whole time I owned it.
FLASH
The problem was that he used the spray stuff and used it copiously. Being a split screen he used it to slide/ease the glass into the rubber from the top (it had no bar across the top so the glass was "open" to fresh air at the top) and as he had replaced the old plate glass with laminated glass it was thicker and so needed a bit of help. The silicone leaked from each corner every time the weather got a bit hot and this thin greasy green line, which was so hard to remove, ran down the scuttle. Looked b****y awful. I owned the car for over 15 years and it did it the whole time I owned it.
FLASH
you bought the car from Greg ?