203 Gear DIAGNOSIS

James Gelido

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Fellow Frogger
Joined
Jun 16, 2018
Messages
323
Location
Sydney
Hey guys,

Recently replaced the barrel that holds the 'clutch operating rod'. The thing was worn beyond belief and was not getting a direct pull on the thrust bearing fork. I filed out the holes on the Jackshaft lever and used a bolt of slightly bigger diameter to form a new barrel (see attached).

Checked clutch bearing and has 5mm worth of carbon on it.

Clutch feel much better and actually springs back now.

Also tightened the adjuster nut on the steering column for linkages, not much difference :confused:

Got a slight issue though. The old girl will not go into and gear whilst engine is running, although, when I put it into 1st gear with the engine off, then start it with the clutch down, it starts and doesn't creep or jump forward. I then slowly release the clutch and the the car will drive in 1st gear. I give it a slight rev, then I can change it out of gear into neutral, but once in neutral will not go into any gear again. Same as reverse.

The fact that it starts in 1st with the clutch down and doesn't move until I release the clutch tells me that the clutch is engaging and disengaging.

The fact that it doesn't go into gear when started in neutral makes me wonder ....

Is this an issue with worn linkages or clutch operating rod out of adjustment? The gears change fine when engine is off and linkages seem to do what they are supposed to but I guess when the engine is on, possibly there is more pressure to shift?

Thanks guys

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Your clutch is dragging which means it is not releasing from the friction faces. That carbon thrust seems below tolerance. My suggestion to you is to find a workshop manual.


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Hey guys,

Recently replaced the barrel that holds the 'clutch operating rod'. The thing was worn beyond belief and was not getting a direct pull on the thrust bearing fork. I filed out the holes on the Jackshaft lever and used a bolt of slightly bigger diameter to form a new barrel (see attached).

Checked clutch bearing and has 5mm worth of carbon on it.

Clutch feel much better and actually springs back now.

Also tightened the adjuster nut on the steering column for linkages, not much difference :confused:

Got a slight issue though. The old girl will not go into and gear whilst engine is running, although, when I put it into 1st gear with the engine off, then start it with the clutch down, it starts and doesn't creep or jump forward. I then slowly release the clutch and the the car will drive in 1st gear. I give it a slight rev, then I can change it out of gear into neutral, but once in neutral will not go into any gear again. Same as reverse.

The fact that it starts in 1st with the clutch down and doesn't move until I release the clutch tells me that the clutch is engaging and disengaging.

The fact that it doesn't go into gear when started in neutral makes me wonder ....

Is this an issue with worn linkages or clutch operating rod out of adjustment? The gears change fine when engine is off and linkages seem to do what they are supposed to but I guess when the engine is on, possibly there is more pressure to shift?

Thanks guys

View attachment 118958

View attachment 118957

View attachment 118959

View attachment 118960


You can strike this problem if the clutch plate has had a "lot of oil" on the facing and tends to stick to either clutch face or flywheel. If the gearbox has been allowed to hang off the clutch plate when being re-installed you can distort the clutch plate enough to drag. If the pilot (spigot)bush is very dry in the crank, it can also drag. All of which sounds like engine or gearbox out, the carbon thrust appears as good as new to me.
 
You can strike this problem if the clutch plate has had a "lot of oil" on the facing and tends to stick to either clutch face or flywheel. If the gearbox has been allowed to hang off the clutch plate when being re-installed you can distort the clutch plate enough to drag. If the pilot (spigot)bush is very dry in the crank, it can also drag. All of which sounds like engine or gearbox out, the carbon thrust appears as good as new to me.

Thanks Boydie!

I managed to find out the issue. The ajusters for the fingers on the pressure plate were loose as a wizards sleeve :joker: Measured the distance of the centre piece from another pressure plate I had. Was 21mm from face to back of fly wheel. Adjusted the fingers up. Worked a treat and brought the centre piece up closer to the thrust bearing making for a much better engagment and disengagment. Clutch is also nice and springy.
 
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Your clutch is dragging which means it is not releasing from the friction faces. That carbon thrust seems below tolerance. My suggestion to you is to find a workshop manual.

Thanks for the suggestion. Already have a workshop manual. Couldn't have rebuilt the motor without it. Manual is 403 specific, which our motor is. Also have a 203 workshop manual for adjustment rod specs.. Unfortunately, the manual doesn't mention anything about loose finger adjusters on pressure plate or tightening specifications for that matter. Thrust bearing however is according to spec. Plenty still on it.

Cheers
 
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Some pics that should be of use.

Thanks Boydie!

I managed to find out the issue. The ajusters for the fingers on the pressure plate were loose as a wizards sleeve :joker: Measured the distance of the centre piece from another pressure plate I had. Was 21mm from face to back of fly wheel. Adjusted the fingers up. Worked a treat and brought the centre piece up closer to the thrust bearing making for a much better engagment and disengagment. Clutch is also nice and springy.
Hi James, I'll put up some images that should be of use to you on this. Any questions, give us a hit back.
 

Attachments

  • 1. Yoke dimensions in inches. 'Box' means Covir..JPG
    1. Yoke dimensions in inches. 'Box' means Covir..JPG
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  • 1st model 'Box' Covir..JPG
    1st model 'Box' Covir..JPG
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  • 2nd model 'Box' Covir..JPG
    2nd model 'Box' Covir..JPG
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  • 3. Both short rods 95 mm centre to centre.JPG
    3. Both short rods 95 mm centre to centre.JPG
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  • 4. Long rod 215 mm centre to centre.JPG
    4. Long rod 215 mm centre to centre.JPG
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  • 5. Clutch activating rod.JPG
    5. Clutch activating rod.JPG
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  • 6. Equal spring dimensions on column in neutral.JPG
    6. Equal spring dimensions on column in neutral.JPG
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  • 7.  Depth of bearing face.  25mm.JPG
    7. Depth of bearing face. 25mm.JPG
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  • 8. Flush across 3 points when assembled.JPG
    8. Flush across 3 points when assembled.JPG
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  • 8a.  e = Driven plate thickness. New, approx. 8.4 mm..JPG
    8a. e = Driven plate thickness. New, approx. 8.4 mm..JPG
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  • 9. Thrust gap to give 20 mm of free play in your pedal..JPG
    9. Thrust gap to give 20 mm of free play in your pedal..JPG
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Hi James, I'll put up some images that should be of use to you on this. Any questions, give us a hit back.
More images on the subject.
 

Attachments

  • 10. Flywheel face clean..JPG
    10. Flywheel face clean..JPG
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  • 11. Clean driven plate placed in..JPG
    11. Clean driven plate placed in..JPG
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  • 12. Pressure plate in..JPG
    12. Pressure plate in..JPG
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  • 13. Pressure plate type KZ 11..JPG
    13. Pressure plate type KZ 11..JPG
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  • 14. Correct length on rods..JPG
    14. Correct length on rods..JPG
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  • 15. Clutch activating rod attached..JPG
    15. Clutch activating rod attached..JPG
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  • 16. Thrust bearing  circlips snug fit..JPG
    16. Thrust bearing circlips snug fit..JPG
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  • 17. Pedal assembly well lubed..JPG
    17. Pedal assembly well lubed..JPG
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  • 18. Too much play here..JPG
    18. Too much play here..JPG
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  • 19. Make it a neat fit..JPG
    19. Make it a neat fit..JPG
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  • 20. Neat fit as well..JPG
    20. Neat fit as well..JPG
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Attachments

  • 21. Take up any slack if possible..JPG
    21. Take up any slack if possible..JPG
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  • 22. Neat fit here as well..JPG
    22. Neat fit here as well..JPG
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  • 23. If your clutch fork looks like this, it needs.jpg
    23. If your clutch fork looks like this, it needs.jpg
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  • 24. This, a 19mm I.D. pipe sleeve..JPG
    24. This, a 19mm I.D. pipe sleeve..JPG
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  • 25. 2 holes. 1 for the fork,1 for rod..JPG
    25. 2 holes. 1 for the fork,1 for rod..JPG
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  • 26. Clutch rod in, neat fit..JPG
    26. Clutch rod in, neat fit..JPG
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  • 27. Bolt through fork, nice and tight..JPG
    27. Bolt through fork, nice and tight..JPG
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  • 28. Opposite view, trim off excess..JPG
    28. Opposite view, trim off excess..JPG
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  • 29. Different method, same result..JPG
    29. Different method, same result..JPG
    135.9 KB · Views: 117
  • 30. Different method, same result..JPG
    30. Different method, same result..JPG
    128.3 KB · Views: 119
Go hard James...

please admins - could this lot become a 'sticky' for future reference ?
Thanks for that Steven, I thought sending what info I could think of on the subject of the clutch and gearchange issues that James is having or had, with images and postscript the most straight forward way to hopefully help James out.
 
all i could think is join Amoureux 203 403 for their searchable archive of FAQs and (being without french) look at threads with paperclips, i.e. pictures ... 'tringles' look promising.
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Hi James, I'll put up some images that should be of use to you on this. Any questions, give us a hit back.


Wow, thanks for going to all that effort mate! Amazing stuff! Apologies for the late reply. This will become much use to alot of people I reckon. :) Clutch is okay now. The depth is crucial and not sure what happened to my pressure plate but was way too under-adjusted and because I didn't have any specs I then proceeded to over-adjust the fingers, which then caused the clutch to slip, the opposite. Engine was out again.

Luckily, I was able to find an original pressure plate that hadn't been tampered with, and measured the correct depth centre of the bearing face with a set of vernier callipers. Worked a treat and got the correct distance.

Cheers again mate! Legend
 
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