Tool Talk
- Thread starter jo proffi
- Start date
She'll be right .... its way better than gravel. I don't think I'd ever wear it out. It'll probably just end up with cars parked on it. The slab in the shed is 90mm thick with no re-enforcement or moisture membrane.... and also no doubt 25MPa (cheapest shit the previous owner could do) and it's holding in there 15 years later (even though it sweats moisture in winter).
"one day" when I have money, I'll have professionals build a good 12 x 12 meter slab beside the shed, and put a decent shed up there
This will get your OCD going
Could it be anymore perfect? So what I mean by better than gravel. Its downhill towards the back corner of the shed, not level, otherwise there would be no roof height (being a leanto). it would probably be good for presssure washing and cleaning in, as water will just run outside
Yep, perfect, that won't be shiny and slippery when wet
Could it be anymore perfect? So what I mean by better than gravel. Its downhill towards the back corner of the shed, not level, otherwise there would be no roof height (being a leanto). it would probably be good for presssure washing and cleaning in, as water will just run outside
Yep, perfect, that won't be shiny and slippery when wet
I put that PVA glue type sealer into the area of the shed the office is in ... and its never leached moisture up through the floor, there.... so that is probably the go. I'm not overly concerned. Its better than gravel. That tiny bit of concrete there ( 6 x 6 meters) is $1200 worth
Yes, the season does not always change on time.So if your trying to tidy up under the leanto and slop some concrete around .... Take notice of the text messages they send you.
View attachment 239819
Last week I ordered a couple of meters of concrete and slopped it kinda level for the first 6 x 3 meter section. It worked out ok. I got it levelish and roughish (I don't want a floated shiny smooth surface).
View attachment 239820
So I did the same thing this week for another 6 x 3 meter section. Did you notice the difference in teh messages?
I did about 1/4 of the way through levelling the slop out when I thought "why does this feel like its starting to kick off"... Hmmmm... talk about a bloody scramble to try and get it level'ish before it was to thick to move.
See the messages? In the week I chose, they changed from summer mix, to winter mix. I'm guessing winter mix sets a lot more quickly to take into account the theoretical lower temperatures
I bought some 2k auto paint last week. I asked for "slow" hardener but was told none available until next summer. I guess I must now wait for cooler weather to spray my "normal" mix.
At least I am not stuck with a "fast" hardener!
There are some Whitworth spanners on Ebay:I need whitworth, increasingly hard to find, except for the basics
Andrew
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I need whitworth, increasingly hard to find, except for the basics
Andrew
sundays markets and FB marketplace .... You aren't trying to find it new ?I need whitworth, increasingly hard to find, except for the basics
Andrew
Chlorinated rubber paints are lacquers and therefore have very poor solvent resistance. The only 'chlorinated rubbers' with some sort of solvent resistance are chlorinated rubbers modified by the addition of alkyd resin, which compromises some of the other good properties of chlorinated rubber. Overall, a two pack epoxy would be far preferable, and even a tung oil based paving paint would be better than chlorinated rubber in that application!
Agreed, but epoxy is very expensive, and DC buys cheap concrete. Chlorinated rubber preparations are often why tyres squeal at carparks. It can be applied to fresh concrete as a curing agent, and keeps the slab reasonably hose down clean afterwards. Resurfacing is also easy.
I need whitworth, increasingly hard to find, except for the basics
I agree with the others, go second-hand.
What actually do you need?
Roger
wouldn't you just prefer a concrete sealer? I'm thinking all the oil and lhm will do a good job like it has everywhere else
Cost per litre needs to be adjusted by 'volume solids' (VS) of each coating. Volume solids is the percentage the dried film is of the wet film. The VS of individual epoxies varies greatly, but 80 - 85% is typical of high build high solids epoxies and epoxy mastics, while epoxy enamels might be around 50%, Chlorinated rubbers typically would be in the range from 25 - 35%. Typically an epoxy sold as a floor coating would be at least double the VS of a chlorinated rubber. You are right about the ease of recoating and touching up with chlorinated rubber. It is typically far easier than with an epoxy, but then you're likely to have to do it far more often!
I must have applied a colossal amount of this stuff in my construction days, curing general purpose slabs and epoxy coating industrial floors (mostly trowelled, and $$$). Just as well the curing stuff was clear, as the application nozzle was pretty rough. Touching up afterwards was done the same way. As you can see I wasn't a paint tech.
Ok, you have convinced me ... I'll try some on the rest of the slab ... and see if it actually sticks. paint tends to just lift off. I did google it and it comes up as "pool paint" ...
That is a 3 phase motor, it is missing the links (little brass plates with a hole in each end). In the diagram below you can see how star and delta connections are made. To get the best torque from the motor you will need to connect the motor up in delta.
Also you may want to check to make sure it is connected up in a standard 3 phase configuration by making sure there is continuity between U1 to U2, V1 to V2 and WI to W2.
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... You might have to pull the motor apart and see where each wire goes?DC - the stuff used in construction is transparent. It used primarily to lock in water during curing. Poorly cured low cement concrete will degrade at the surface. Afterwards it keeps the slab clean. Pool paint is usually tinted.