Hi all driving on the highway motor has started to become noisier , with a chugging sound and low oil pressure at idle, noticed noise for 5 minutes .
Update motor stopped as in overheated coolant leaked everywhere ,Hi all driving on the highway motor has started to become noisier , with a chugging sound and low oil pressure at idle, noticed noise for 5 minutes .
Hi thanks for your he reply , the car is a a Citroen dealer in Wagga Wagga , they said it went into limp mode and shutdown, waiting on a diagnosis if the motor is ok . The thermostat housing in the valley was done just before I bought the car so 3 years ago . I think it’s the coolant inlet at the he front of the motor, I bought the new part a month ago with plans to replace soon .Oh Dear, sounds like you have had the dreaded coolant manifold failure. We all hope your engine has survived this event.
Regards, Ken
Thanks for the info , the car won’t attempt to start , waiting for the dealer to get back to find out why.You may recall the discussion on a 407 V6 from last year and some related Youtube videos by a German guy fixing LandRovers with this engine that point out some design compromises and weaknesses in the basic unit. Generally, it's OK in the C5/C6/407 and doesn't work as hard as it would in a LandRover or maybe some Fords/Jaguars. The thermostat housing, that coolant outlet and a few other peripheral items can let it down though. You do have to remember that the youngest example of this engine would be from 2010, so now pushing 14 years old and many are older and have covered quite high kms. Aside from cooking them and needing to replace head gaskets, perhaps even the heads, probably the most expensive failures arise when the fuel pump internals begin to wear and the tiny particles that are shed reach all the injectors. Stag V8 has been shown by a few to not be as bad as made out when everything is properly assembled and maintained, but of course that doesn't always happen in real world production and service environments.
Ok nothing has happened with the car IE no diagnosis. There is no electrical power to anything , battery is good , where do I look first or is something fried .Thanks for the info , the car won’t attempt to start , waiting for the dealer to get back to find out why.
Hi ken yep 150 amp maxi fuse blown found it in 20 minutes this morning with a multimeter . Picked up the car from mildura yesterday . Raa delivered the car from Wagga to mildura after 2 months I gave up on the Citroen dealer there , the service dept could not get electrical power . I think they were having me on . And to add insult they broke one of the connections to the fuel filter.Try and track the power from the battery. Maybe the maxifuse in series with the battery positive has blown or the return monitoring link in the negative lead has become open circuit.
Cheers, Ken
The photo is to large to upload thanks for your reply’s .Hi ken yep 150 amp maxi fuse blown found it in 20 minutes this morning with a multimeter . Picked up the car from mildura yesterday . Raa delivered the car from Wagga to mildura after 2 months I gave up on the Citroen dealer there , the service dept could not get electrical power . I think they were having me on . And to add insult they broke one of the connections to the fuel filter.
Hi DavidHave you blown fuse F8 for the starter? Change it from 20A to 25A. Does the starter even click?
Thanks ken the battery is charged I will have a look at the other things you have mentioned.Check the engine turns ok by trying to turn the engine by the flywheel. Check you have 12 volts coming down the thick 12 volt lead to the solenoid. Check there is close to zero ohms between the thick lead going into starter motor from the solenoid to the negative battery terminal to make sure the brushes onto the rotor are OK, and that there is 10 to 100 ohms resistance to the negative battery terminal from the solenoid trigger terminal to the negative battery terminal for the hold in coil of the solenoid.
Make sure the battery is charged and around 13 volts or the ECUs will not engage the relay that sends power to the solenoid.
Check if you can hear a click in the BSM and get power down the trigger lead to the solenoid. If any of the above resistance checks fail, there is a problem with the starter motor.
Cheers, Ken
Thanks david I will investigateSee if you have any voltage at the starter's solenoid when you try to crank it. Is the engine earth good?
Are you able to short the solenoid to make it crank? If the engine was locked up I would expect you'd still get a 'click'.
The car is in park , but thinks it’s in drive as per dash info .Check the engine turns ok by trying to turn the engine by the flywheel. Check you have 12 volts coming down the thick 12 volt lead to the solenoid. Check there is close to zero ohms between the thick lead going into starter motor from the solenoid to the negative battery terminal to make sure the brushes onto the rotor are OK, and that there is 10 to 100 ohms resistance to the negative battery terminal from the solenoid trigger terminal to the negative battery terminal for the hold in coil of the solenoid.
Make sure the battery is charged and around 13 volts or the ECUs will not engage the relay that sends power to the solenoid.
Check if you can hear a click in the BSM and get power down the trigger lead to the solenoid. If any of the above resistance checks fail, there is a problem with the starter motor.
Cheers, Ken