Sound deadener/insulation.

Shoji

Shoji

Renault 17 TL 1312
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Fellow Frogger
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Just looking into this stuff for the R17 interior.
Yes there's plenty out there but it doesn't say about the tack level. Tack level of the sticky back! A low tack level would be great.
I don't want another problem with a mat that you have a hell of a time removing from paint work causing a big mess.
What experience do people have with this stuff and can it be removed with no issues? Brands?

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What about Dynamat John? or is cost to prohibitive. There is a thread here on AF about sound deadening a car, I think they used Dynamat.

www.dynamat.com

Automotive Soundproofing & Heat Control | Dynamat

The most recognized brand in automotive soundproofing and heat control in the world. Learn more about reducing unwanted noise and vibration.
www.dynamat.com www.dynamat.com
 
I could be wrong, but I don't think getting this stuff off again easily is probably a design parameter?
It is relying on good contact with the underlying surface to perform it's intended job, so any reduction in the material's adhesion characteristics could potentially jeopardise it's ongoing performance.🤔
Maybe dust a light coat of cheap spray paint down first (like a guide coat) so it is sticking to this paint, rather than the car's actual paintwork?
My 2 cents worth.🤷‍♂️
 
You can buy it off the role at Clark rubber ,i fitted some in the roof of my camper van mainly for heat insulation ,i didnt need much ,so was more ecanomic than buying a role ,you may have to check price comparison if buying a quantity ,pugs
 
COL said:
What about Dynamat John? or is cost to prohibitive. There is a thread here on AF about sound deadening a car, I think they used Dynamat.

www.dynamat.com

Automotive Soundproofing & Heat Control | Dynamat

The most recognized brand in automotive soundproofing and heat control in the world. Learn more about reducing unwanted noise and vibration.
www.dynamat.com www.dynamat.com
Click to expand...
I used Dynamat in the R8 in places. I like to think it made the car quieter. More needed in roof (headliner wasn't removed) and other areas, like behind the fuel tank (never removed) etc.
 
Shoji said:
Just looking into this stuff for the R17 interior.
Yes there's plenty out there but it doesn't say about the tack level. Tack level of the sticky back! A low tack level would be great.
I don't want another problem with a mat that you have a hell of a time removing from paint work causing a big mess.
What experience do people have with this stuff and can it be removed with no issues? Brands?
Click to expand...
Used this Underdog stuff on the C5 to reduce road noise. Worked well. Recommend it.
The backing is mastic, clean removal is not likely.
There were some other brands with a poly backing and an adhesive layer. But they didn't seem to have much noise suppression qualities, more for heat insulation.
 
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Dry ice is the way to remove this stuff I think. I use it in doors as part of audio system installs, makes a nice improvement to mid bass response :)
 
Its the mass stopping the panel vibrating. if its laying on a horizontal surface I doubt the adhesive will matter..... just the mass to stop panel vibration. I used a lightweight foil type insulation in my CX years ago. The difference was quite staggering in sound reduction ( I was after heat insulation more than sound suppression).
 
I’ve got the carbuilders butyl mats and their acoustic foam all over my DS and it makes a big difference to noise and heat. The floor was like a bass drum before installing the butyl.

You’d have a hell of a time removing this stuff. As Greenpeace said, it relies on being firmly bonded to the panels to stop them drumming. Don’t lay it over wiring or anything you might want to get at.

If you’re just doing the floor then you can use a mass loaded vinyl mat as carpet underlay and then glue the carpet to that.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I'm going to take a leap of faith and go for the old style underlay for the floors with carpet. The underside of the car has the original white spray on sound deadener which will get a clean and checked for condition. Paint it like the rear end I did.
Up front under the dash - on the firewall I'm going to use the Jaycar stuff but would like to decorate it with another layer of something. The old sound paneling on the firewall was just rubbish being 50 year old.
 
Shoji said:
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I'm going to take a leap of faith and go for the old style underlay for the floors with carpet. The underside of the car has the original white spray on sound deadener which will get a clean and checked for condition. Paint it like the rear end I did.
Up front under the dash - on the firewall I'm going to use the Jaycar stuff but would like to decorate it with another layer of something. The old sound paneling on the firewall was just rubbish being 50 year old.
Click to expand...
Good you have reached this stage of assembly. :)
 
Keen to hear the results Shoji. When doing my R17 I never put any sound deadener or underlay back in. Just the carpet up front and vinyl in the rear footwells.

Definitely feel some heat through the firewall so I have been contemplating putting something back in.
 
After a long career in a noisy industrial environment without hearing protection, and decades of riding Harleys with drag pipes, I find that the addition of sound deadeners makes little difference to the noise levels inside my cars.

I said "THE ADDITION OF SOUND DEADENERS MAKES LITTLE DIFFERENCE TO THE NOISE LEVELS INSIDE MY CARS".😉
 
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For the floorpan, one approach is to lay down plastic and build up a mat of butyl and some of that heavy sound deadener mat sold by JayCar as a first layer that levels out the corrugations in the pressed sheet. Then at least you can remove it if the floorpan gets wet and not having the floor slowly rotting away. I think it would be more of a concern that sticky butyl pads applied to a vertical or overhead panel would fall off on hot day. I guess you have to go by some tests or the experience of others as to what stays on when hot. It's also easy to waste the stuff by putting it everywhere instead of where it matters on panels that are most likely to vibrate and transmit noise.

This Jaycar product is quite a heavy product. Woven bottom with a dimpled vinyl appearance on top.

Heavy Duty Sound Barrier Damping Material - Improved | Jaycar Electronics

Ideal for car audio installations - one of the most hostile environments for housing speakers. Get a clean, vibration and rattle free sound by making a speaker friendly environment with our range of acoustic sound dampening materials.
www.jaycar.com.au www.jaycar.com.au
 
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David S said:
For the floorpan, one approach is to lay down plastic and build up a mat of butyl and some of that heavy sound deadener mat sold by JayCar as a first layer that levels out the corrugations in the pressed sheet. Then at least you can remove it if the floorpan gets wet and not having the floor slowly rotting away. I think it would be more of a concern that sticky butyl pads applied to a vertical or overhead panel would fall off on hot day. I guess you have to go by some tests or the experience of others as to what stays on when hot. It's also easy to waste the stuff by putting it everywhere instead of where it matters on panels that are most likely to vibrate and transmit noise.

This Jaycar product is quite a heavy product. Woven bottom with a dimpled vinyl appearance on top.

Heavy Duty Sound Barrier Damping Material - Improved | Jaycar Electronics

Ideal for car audio installations - one of the most hostile environments for housing speakers. Get a clean, vibration and rattle free sound by making a speaker friendly environment with our range of acoustic sound dampening materials.
www.jaycar.com.au www.jaycar.com.au
Click to expand...

That's probably worth trying on a DS front floor and firewall.
 
found a part roll of the old school horsehair in the shed.... :)

Bob
 
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