Low-Rise Car Hoists

geodon said:
From the YouTube video you'll see it's designed to work with hoses on the floor & motor on a trolley. I welded the trolley to the frame (minus the wheels) that meant one hose was too long (NBD) & one was too short to reach via the roof so I had a new longer hose made by Enzed. ($300. OUCH!)
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I wish I'd seen this before I whipped up to enzed yesterday. I went up to get a length of hose to join the $275 chinesium 240volt pump to the ram. Its a bit of rubber line about 1.5meters long. I just took the fitting from the new pump and the ram with me. He took a look at both ends and said 'no worries' and someone else wrote up the invoice .... my jaw just about hit the ground. $92.00 :eek:

You know, they handed the beautifully made 4800psi rated GATES line with lovely crimped connections and fittings on it. The invoice was a bunch of fitting at $17 each, $16 for assembly and $35 for the line. After reading the invoice I decided it was bloody cheap. As what they handed over would have been impossible for me to fabricate without exotic compression tools and a lot of experience in using them to get a high pressure leak free joint.
 
DoubleChevron said:
I wish I'd seen this before I whipped up to enzed yesterday. I went up to get a length of hose to join the $275 chinesium 240volt pump to the ram. Its a bit of rubber line about 1.5meters long. I just took the fitting from the new pump and the ram with me. He took a look at both ends and said 'no worries' and someone else wrote up the invoice .... my jaw just about hit the ground. $92.00 :eek:

You know, they handed the beautifully made 4800psi rated GATES line with lovely crimped connections and fittings on it. The invoice was a bunch of fitting at $17 each, $16 for assembly and $35 for the line. After reading the invoice I decided it was bloody cheap. As what they handed over would have been impossible for me to fabricate without exotic compression tools and a lot of experience in using them to get a high pressure leak free joint.
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You mean lucky you didn't see that post.
 
DoubleChevron said:
I missed it ... .where's the piccie of the Big 6 on it ??? :dance:
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Sorry Shane. It's gone to Clive Palmer. The Dauphine went to someone who makes fireplaces in Melbourne. Nobody wanted the Pug. Their loss. I'll keep it. It was far & away my fav. anyway.
2CV David said:
Noticed that Geodon has a proper car on it!.
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I hope you're referring to the MG ZB Magnette and not the Yellow Peril that I'm storing for my mate.

After I sold the above 2, I went shopping for the only model Jag I regret never owning: the Mark 1. I wanted a BRG 3.4 litre manual overdrive with wire wheels.

www.bonhams.com

Bonhams Cars : 1959 Jaguar Mk1 3.4-Litre Sports Saloon Chassis no. S990633DN Engine no. KF3410-8

*An evocation of Mike Hawthorn's Jaguar Mk1 *Built by marque specialist Guy Broad *Modified and up-rated
www.bonhams.com www.bonhams.com

To my shock & horror good ones were getting ~$110K! 20 years ago, $20K would have been serious overkill. My budget got me a 2.4 litre automatic- not exactly a soul stirring drive. Looking around, I stumbled on this very presentable but very tired mechanically BRG ZB for 10% of my budget. After some online research, I bought it & decided to build a Poor Man's Mark 1 Jag:

* wire wheels
* front disc brakes.
*MGB unleaded motor with larger inlet valves
*Ford Type 9 5-speed GB ex a Sierra
* 3.9 MGB diff (orig is 4.6- the buggers go thru roundabouts in 4th gear!)
I haven't paid for the motor yet but I estimate I will have enough left over for one of these:


The hoist will make doing the conversion a doddle.
 
I've had an XJ6 series 1 4.2 litre. Or rather SWMBO did. She ran it dry & cracked the block. 4.2 bores are very close together and are unforgiving.

In the unlikely event I got another XJ, it would be an XJC 4.2- the 2 door version.

Sorry, I find V12's downright scary.
 
geodon said:
BRG ZB for 10% of my budget. After some online research, I bought it & decided to build a Poor Man's Mark 1 Jag:

* wire wheels
* front disc brakes.
*MGB unleaded motor with larger inlet valves
*Ford Type 9 5-speed GB ex a Sierra
* 3.9 MGB diff (orig is 4.6- the buggers go thru roundabouts in 4th gear!)
I haven't paid for the motor yet but I estimate I will have enough left over for one of these:


The hoist will make doing the conversion a doddle.
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You should knock up your own supercharger kit. That Moss kit would be $6K with GST and freight.
An AMR500 is almost the same flange pattern as a HS6/8 SU. Just get a single SU B series manifold, adapt the blower and extend the snout to line up with your drive pulley of choice. A single HS6/8 would be very close to a bolt on to the AMR500's inlet flange as well.
The AMRs are rated to 16000 rpm and your 1800 motor would need to spin an AMR500 at 2.5 times crank speed to give around 7psi of boost.
I've done a few AMR conversions on my own cars and they come in at less than $1K in components. Alternatively you could make your own manifold with an extended plenum that lines the standard supercharger pulley up with the drive pulley. I seem to recall the Magnettes have a fairly roomy engine bay?
It's not hard to do and you get the satisfaction of making it yourself.🤷‍♂️

The AMR500 on my 1926 Rover is an example of making a kit with an extended drive.The blower is bolted straiģht to the standard carb flange on the cylinder head via a sandwich adaptor. The blower pulley is quite small as the only drive pulley on this engine is on the camshaft, so it is only rotating at 1/2 crank speed. This was set up for 4.5psi.

Resized_20170824_112830.jpeg


The Reliant kit uses an extended plenum to line the stock blower pulley up instead of extending the drive. This one is an AMR300. I have a smaller blower pulley on it now, this kit makes 10psi. There's not much room in a Reliant engine bay, hence the swan neck for the HS6.

20220112_123942.jpg
 
geodon said:
Sorry Shane. It's gone to Clive Palmer. The Dauphine went to someone who makes fireplaces in Melbourne. Nobody wanted the Pug. Their loss. I'll keep it. It was far & away my fav. anyway.


I hope you're referring to the MG ZB Magnette and not the Yellow Peril that I'm storing for my mate.

After I sold the above 2, I went shopping for the only model Jag I regret never owning: the Mark 1. I wanted a BRG 3.4 litre manual overdrive with wire wheels.

www.bonhams.com

Bonhams Cars : 1959 Jaguar Mk1 3.4-Litre Sports Saloon Chassis no. S990633DN Engine no. KF3410-8

*An evocation of Mike Hawthorn's Jaguar Mk1 *Built by marque specialist Guy Broad *Modified and up-rated
www.bonhams.com www.bonhams.com

To my shock & horror good ones were getting ~$110K! 20 years ago, $20K would have been serious overkill. My budget got me a 2.4 litre automatic- not exactly a soul stirring drive. Looking around, I stumbled on this very presentable but very tired mechanically BRG ZB for 10% of my budget. After some online research, I bought it & decided to build a Poor Man's Mark 1 Jag:

* wire wheels
* front disc brakes.
*MGB unleaded motor with larger inlet valves
*Ford Type 9 5-speed GB ex a Sierra
* 3.9 MGB diff (orig is 4.6- the buggers go thru roundabouts in 4th gear!)
I haven't paid for the motor yet but I estimate I will have enough left over for one of these:


The hoist will make doing the conversion a doddle.
Click to expand...

why not a little light weight all aluminium v8 ?? :) It'll probably weigh a lot less than the cast iron boat anchor .....
 
DoubleChevron said:
why not a little light weight all aluminium v8 ?? :) It'll probably weigh a lot less than the cast iron boat anchor .....
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The factory kerb weight figures for a 4 cylinder MGB GT with 4 speed and OD vs an V8 MGB GT with 4 speed and OD shows 77lbs of extra weight in the V8 version.
I recall the old P76 ads showed that the alloy V8 was slightly heavier than the cast iron block straiģht 6.
I played with Rover V8s for a number of years and found out trying to find a "exact weight" for one of these engines was like looking for next week's lotto numbers.🤷‍♂️
 
Greenpeace said:
The factory kerb weight figures for a 4 cylinder MGB GT with 4 speed and OD vs an V8 MGB GT with 4 speed and OD shows 77lbs of extra weight in the V8 version.
I recall the old P76 ads showed that the alloy V8 was slightly heavier than the cast iron block straiģht 6.
I played with Rover V8s for a number of years and found out trying to find a "exact weight" for one of these engines was like looking for next week's lotto numbers.🤷‍♂️
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I've heard they were about 150kg .... which is less than any cast iron block engine :confused: gearboxes are heavy though, the bigger gearbox and overdrive unit is probably very hefty.
 
DoubleChevron said:
I've heard they were about 150kg .... which is less than any cast iron block engine :confused: gearboxes are heavy though, the bigger gearbox and overdrive unit is probably very hefty.
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I think lot of sources quote the original Buick design's claimed engine weight?

I've seen a photo of a complete 3.9L Discovery engine sitting on a set of scales, manual flywheel attached, but no clutch, and it was just over 200kg.
The 4cyl and V8 MGBs use the same gearbox and overdrive. The V8 has different ratios, and the V8 will only engage OD in 4th gear (where the 4 cyl works in 3rd and 4th) to try and save 3rd gear from imploding. The diff is the same basic unit, with some V8 specific mods.
The V8 has a heavier duty tailshaft, front brakes and front roll bar, so all the kerb weight difference isn't just in the engine. But like for like the 4 cyl is the is the lighter (complete) engine of the two, I have no doubt however that the bare V8 block would be lighter than the bare 4 cyl block.

Having said that the Rover V8 is a great little engine with a good power to weight ratio for the era.👍

Jaguar, bless their souls, managed to make an all alloy 5.3L V12 weigh 40lbs more than a 7.5L all cast iron Ford V8 (460 cid). The V12's even 80lbs heavier than the XK series 6 cyl, and you usually have to lower the 6 cyl Jags back down a couple inches when you swap a cast iron small block V8 in.🤷‍♂️
 
Greenpeace said:
You should knock up your own supercharger kit. That Moss kit would be $6K with GST and freight.
An AMR500 is almost the same flange pattern as a HS6/8 SU. Just get a single SU B series manifold, adapt the blower and extend the snout to line up with your drive pulley of choice. A single HS6/8 would be very close to a bolt on to the AMR500's inlet flange as well.
The AMRs are rated to 16000 rpm and your 1800 motor would need to spin an AMR500 at 2.5 times crank speed to give around 7psi of boost.
I've done a few AMR conversions on my own cars and they come in at less than $1K in components. Alternatively you could make your own manifold with an extended plenum that lines the standard supercharger pulley up with the drive pulley. I seem to recall the Magnettes have a fairly roomy engine bay?
It's not hard to do and you get the satisfaction of making it yourself.🤷‍♂️

The AMR500 on my 1926 Rover is an example of making a kit with an extended drive.The blower is bolted straiģht to the standard carb flange on the cylinder head via a sandwich adaptor. The blower pulley is quite small as the only drive pulley on this engine is on the camshaft, so it is only rotating at 1/2 crank speed. This was set up for 4.5psi.

View attachment 208787

The Reliant kit uses an extended plenum to line the stock blower pulley up instead of extending the drive. This one is an AMR300. I have a smaller blower pulley on it now, this kit makes 10psi. There's not much room in a Reliant engine bay, hence the swan neck for the HS6.

View attachment 208788
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The depth of knowledge on this site is outstanding.

Thanks.

Where did you source your AMR units?
DoubleChevron said:
why not a little light weight all aluminium v8 ?? :) It'll probably weigh a lot less than the cast iron boat anchor .....
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Shane, have you looked into what's involved (and the cost) of engineering certification for modified vehicles?
 
DoubleChevron said:
You bought an XJ ..... When does the Etype arrive ? I have a shitbox range rover if you really want to give it a test :ROFLMAO:
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Not mine. I hate the buggers. I'm storing it for a mate. It hadn't moved in about 5 years so I'm surprised it fired up. I got it out to give the hoist a real test!
 
geodon said:
The depth of knowledge on this site is outstanding.

Thanks.

Where did you source your AMR units?

Shane, have you looked into what's involved (and the cost) of engineering certification for modified vehicles?
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Um ... yes, I would worry about that :whistle: :whistle: 🤥 🤥 ..... I wouldn't just do it at all :clown:
 
geodon said:
Where did you source your AMR units?
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I've bought mine over the past 20 years or so off EBay, Gumtree etc, I also picked one up once at a Japanese engine importers.
You have to be careful now though as there's a flood of cheap Chinese AMR copies out there, and from what I've heard they are crap.🤷‍♂️
The Chinese castings are not an exact copy of the Aisin though and they seem to have a V belt pulley on them where the genuine ones all have a multirib (PK) pulley. I have a couple of Aisin AMR500s kicking around if you need photos of a genuine one. You will need a 500, a 300 is too small for your application.

Another one to consider is a Toyota SC14. These are a 1420cc (per rotation) unit, so to make "everyday" boost levels on your engine you would probably have to underdrive it a little. A 1 to 1 ratio would give you around 8psi. Depending on your compression ratio that might be a little on the high side for a "daily drive" cast iron engine in a heavyish body.
I only get away with 10psi on the Reliant because it is an all alloy engine and the car only weighs 340kg.
I have couple of SC14s laying around as well if you need any photos or measurements.
I've also got an Eaton M90 sitting around which pumps pretty much the same volume as an SC14. It has a longish drive snout on it, but from memory the intake port is at the rear of the unit.🤔

This is is a pair of SC14s on a 318 V8 Chrysler engine in a Rambler Rebel, 12psi blowing through the throat of the 750 AFB carburettor. If you look closely you'll see the nitrous kit I fitted to help "cool" the charge a little.😉
Avoid blow through, draw through is much easier unless you completely enclose the carburettor.

Resized_20220611_192306.jpeg
 
My last word on low rise hoists:

Don't work under them at a crouch. If you have to then FFS wear a hard hat.

Don't ask me how I know.
 
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