Mine is the factory dual system. Interestingly the front evaporator, even though small compared to modern cars is bigger than the one in the rear unit. My 2 bobs worth it is probably the correct size given the poor airflow out of the front system. Maybe it was designed that way?
Citroen CX Air Cond Options
- Thread starter Chatty
- Start date
Is this a dual system Greg?
Mine is working well as an original single system, although the gas (standard) has been slowly leaking out over the year. Since I only drive it a few months of the year when I return home, I am quite pleased with it.
I agree. A single system charged on Hychill (cools quicker than r134a) should be fine for most of the year and would advise against installing a rear system like I did (difficulty, expense, load on system & extra weight) as it's ultimately about getting cold air on your face, although a Prestige or wagon would require both for sure.
The other safety benefit of the single system up front on Hychill is the Tx valve/block & all pipe work etc is on the engine bay side and the older style copper evaporators least likely to leak. If there was a sudden gas discharge it would more likely dissipate into the engine area quickly and therefore into the atmosphere.
With the rear system there is more gas involved, any rear leaks would be contained in the cabin & boot area meaning it could explode!
The best compromise is for hot climates, installing the under dash system in the glove box working with the original integrated system. Not as pretty yet more efficient as less pipe work, better oil circulation and gets to passengers where it is appreciated most; then use r134a for a lack of anxiety
Hi Greg,
I found this product when searching for something else but thought it may fit in with this thread. . .
Home of clearplex - ClearPlex Australia
This is a clear film that is applied to the exterior of a windscreen, ostensibly to protect the glass from stone damage etc., but also claims to reduce heat and uv transfer through the glass. I can't find a data sheet to determine how effective the heat protection is but until someone makes a batch of thermal screens for the CX this may offer a solution?
It is being sold and installed in Australia so I presume it complies with the required Australian regulations
Cheers
Chris
Is your CX an early car with the verticle fan housing
The rear system is the only way to get cold air into the car, it weighs nothing, so don't worry about extra weight. It does freeze the necks and heads of the rear seat passengers. Mine can freeze the lower portion of the back window leaving ice on it
It is still way to hot to travel in, especially for my wife if driving into the direct sun. It *needs* an athermic windscreen. I think the prestige will be much cooler to travel in. The wagons were always much cooler to travel in than the sedans too. I think the extra "air space" inside the cabin must help.
Tinting the windows with a quality tint helps far more than a working front A/C system IMO
seeya,
Shane L.
I have an old CX with aircon instead of glove box. It looks cool but you then don't have a glove box. That may not be a problem as it's tiny anyway. Peterbuc
Is your CX an early car with the verticle fan housing
It *needs* an athermic windscreen.
Tinting the windows with a quality tint helps far more than a working front A/C system IMO
seeya,
Shane L.
Shane, mine is a 1985 CX 25 DTR Turbo, with a standard A/C. I suppose it has a vertical fan housing, but not sure. I think it is one of the last of the Series I cars. I did the same insulation job as you did, and I have the very best Ceramic tinting, which is better than most of the older tint films. I am running 134a gas, but may change to HiChill next time.
Incidentally, I saw this Yuotube on a different clear tint (I think it is internal film) that claims to prevent a lot of heat entering:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPVhUJ3x1iM
Hi All
Just wanted to add my two penneth. If anyone happens to want to add AC to a Safari, this is where we ended up putting it, in the rear raised roof section, just before the back. It's an American system, that's usually found in mini buses, so will make the CX like a floating freezer, plus it heats too. We wanted to put the system where the spare tyre is, but there's simply no room behind the dashboard for all the new pipes!! The photos are from a while ago, so the car's been put back together now and is about to be painted, I'll add more photos when I have them, she's due to be ready by summer 2016.
Cheers from the UK - Justin
Just wanted to add my two penneth. If anyone happens to want to add AC to a Safari, this is where we ended up putting it, in the rear raised roof section, just before the back. It's an American system, that's usually found in mini buses, so will make the CX like a floating freezer, plus it heats too. We wanted to put the system where the spare tyre is, but there's simply no room behind the dashboard for all the new pipes!! The photos are from a while ago, so the car's been put back together now and is about to be painted, I'll add more photos when I have them, she's due to be ready by summer 2016.
Cheers from the UK - Justin
Yours has the Behr heater unit, early CXs (before 1978) had the Sofica unit. Having owned cars with both heater units, I'd say the differences are marginal at best, the Behr unit was meant to be an improvement and probably is (marginally)
Hi, I hope you don't mind my resurrecting this thread. There seems to be a few more people on here with experience of the subject than anywhere else I've found - AC being more essential in your part of the world.
I have a late CX GTi T2 with factory AC. I live in Scotland, so it's not so crucial to have it blowing icy blasts; I would like it to work, though, especially as we're taking the car to France for our honeymoon in September.
I fitted a new condenser, a recon compressor and replaced all the pipework with really high-quality custom-made jobs.
Took it to an AC specialist near where I used to live in London a couple of years ago; he tested the system for leaks, gassed it up (with R134, I think) and it actually blew cold all the way home. Then never again. Then I moved to Glasgow.
I think the main trouble is the receiver/drier is shot - it looks like the orginal from 90/91.
So, my main question is, in the event I can't find an exact OE-spec receiver/drier, can I use another, EG: for an early 2.1 XM? Looking at pics, it looks to have the same connections and is more-or-less the same size. Will it work?
Thanks in advance - all advice gratefully received.
I have a late CX GTi T2 with factory AC. I live in Scotland, so it's not so crucial to have it blowing icy blasts; I would like it to work, though, especially as we're taking the car to France for our honeymoon in September.
I fitted a new condenser, a recon compressor and replaced all the pipework with really high-quality custom-made jobs.
Took it to an AC specialist near where I used to live in London a couple of years ago; he tested the system for leaks, gassed it up (with R134, I think) and it actually blew cold all the way home. Then never again. Then I moved to Glasgow.
I think the main trouble is the receiver/drier is shot - it looks like the orginal from 90/91.
So, my main question is, in the event I can't find an exact OE-spec receiver/drier, can I use another, EG: for an early 2.1 XM? Looking at pics, it looks to have the same connections and is more-or-less the same size. Will it work?
Thanks in advance - all advice gratefully received.
Receiver dryers are pretty forgiving as to substitution.
But I would question your diagnosis. There is nothing in R/D to fail. It's a steel flask with some desiccant pellets in it. And I've new seen nor heard of a R/D blocking.
Sudden failure of system is often loss of refrigerant related, or an electrical issue which stops the compressor clutch from engaging.
The hi/lo pressure switch , ie low refrigerant sensed will do this.
I would take it back to the original refurbish company and ask them to diagnose the fault.
Agreed with Robmac, easy stuff first. Fundamental to determine that the compressor actually works when AC switched on. There is an electromagnetic clutch within the drive pulley and if that loses power - no AC. Easy to eliminate this possible fault. When switched on, does the compressor "compress". That is, does it rotate.
Regards,
John
Regards,
John
I'm betting it was never leak free... so the refrigerant leaked away within a few hours of it being regassed.
seeya,
Shane L.
seeya,
Shane L.
A simple thing I did when I owned a 1980 5 speed CX Safari (which I converted to a Familiale courtesy of a set of seats from a UK wrecker) was to rewire the recycle part of the system. On that model, recycle of the air in the vehicle was achieved by moving the fan lever to the rearmost position. However, then there was no control over the fan speed. I obtained an A/C on/off switch and placed it in a spare switch hole in the rear of the console. I disconnected the wiring that was activated by moving the fan switch to the rearmost position, and with a relay, connected it to the new switch. This meant that I could have the system on recycle and control the fan speed. Once the cabin was cooled, I simply switched back to outside air and the system worked quite satisfactorily. If the ambient temperature was really hot, I just left it on recirculate.
Cheers, Robin
Cheers, Robin
What is this "Once the cabin was cooled" ................... Did you park the car in a big drive in freezer or something :roflmao:
Well if you want icicles hanging off your beard ......
Anytime we thought the A/C wasn't doing anything for temperature reduction, we just turned it off for a few minutes. Sure it wasn't up to the same standard as modern systems, but it was one helluva lot bet than none!!
Can you put a couple of hundred PSI of nitrogen in it overnight and see if it leaks down
Do you own a sphere regasser ? I modified mine to put nitrogen into A/C systemsseeya,
Shane L.
Quick question - does anyone know how much R134A refrigerant a dual-evaporator system requires? The only information I've been able to find is from an early workshop manual, which specifies 1kg of R12 (presumably for a single-evaporator system).
I doubt that is recorded anywhere. There all aftermarket dealer fitted systems aren't they
I have an early single system that I have gassed with Hychill-30. The canister is 450grams. I would therefore suggest that two of these canisters would be needed for a dual system.I doubt that is recorded anywhere. There all aftermarket dealer fitted systems aren't they
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