Upgraded my Sim Racing setup.

Fordman

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In 2020 during Covid lockdown I built up a bit of a rig to mount my 20 year old steering wheel and pedals, all the gory details in here:

It has been a lot of fun, but the 20 year old steering wheel and pedal set was getting past it, not enough functions for the modern racing sims, and being mainly plastic construction, it was getting worn and the bearings (nylon I guess) in the wheel were shot. Did a good job though, and amazingly still working ok. It was a Thrustmaster Ferrari 360 model, and I decided to stay with the Thrustmaster brand, it's one of the quality mid-range products available, but upgrade a few levels to get a more robust setup with Force Feedback, which transmits simulated road feel, vibrations, etc, back through the wheel to enhance the experience. So after a bit of research, I have bought a Thrustmaster T300 RS GT outfit, which is definitely a big step up for me. About $650 for the wheel and pedals, but don't worry, these things can cost well over $1000 just for a home setup, but also for as little as about $200 for a similar product to my old one (without FFB).

The T300 immediately feels more robust, and the motor drive in the head unit to give the force feedback (FFB) certainly adds a bit of weight, the old wheel and head assy is approx 1.25kg, the new one 5.0kgs. The pedals also much more robust, old pedal set about 1.0kg, new 3.4kgs. A feature of the new model is belt drive FFB in the head, as against the model below this, which has gear drive FFB. According to reviews (what else can you do to try to get a decent product) the belt drive is smoother and quieter, and first impressions are good. It feels just so much better, strong feedback, but unfortunately so far, hasn't improved my times around the track! :D :D But have only just set it up, and there are many fine adjustments one can do, so maybe I will improve my times. However, I am happy that it feels more realistic and quite solid. Here are a few pics:

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Old and new Wheel heads above, and pedal sets below.

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New Pedal set has metal pedal faces, but robust plastic levers, and if you wanted, there are better optional pedals.

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Brake pedal mod. The rubber cone/bracket is included in the set as an option if you want a realistic feeling brake pedal (who wouldn't?) instead of a full travel pedal which my old unit had. Then from reading a few hints on line, I fitted the adjustable stop myself, which gives a positive end to the brake pedal travel and allows for better calibration of the pedal in the setup. Now I see it, I could have used a shorter bolt, eh?

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Only a few small adjustments were required to fit the new unit to the old frame. Here I'm raising the accelerator pedal to a higher position - for big feet!

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Also had to raise my keyboard holder about 50mm to clear the larger head unit.

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Wheel is pretty fancy. Paddle shifters a bit hard to see in this photo as they match the outer diameter of the head boss, dark fingers pointing up just inside the wheel rim. L and R buttons are to look Left or Right - a quick press puts the screen view as though you were looking sideways. Other buttons for various other functions, many of which you can set up yourself in the program for each vehicle. Another feature of this model is removable steering wheel, which can be changed for various optional wheels, eg, an open top and bottom F1 type, or a nice leather one.

By the way, I still haven't built a proper racing seat, just using an office chair, many other time-consuming home considerations (priorities) have come along since I built the basic frame in 2020. :(:(:(

Just one way to satisfy the inner petrol head.
 
Hell yeah. T300’s are great! It’s gonna feel great next to the old one. :)
 
Your set up is way more flash than the perfectly functional ms wheel we picked up from my neighbour's hard rubbish pile.

My old unit gave me much enjoyment, for many years just attaching to desk in front of normal PC. Enough that I decided to make it a bit more permanent!
I could take my WRX out to track days, but why go to all that trouble, and any damage is corrected by the press of a button. :D :D
And how else could I get to Bathurst, Phillip Island, Sandown, Barbagallo - let alone Monza and other great tracks!
 
Hell yeah. T300’s are great! It’s gonna feel great next to the old one. :)
Hey Bowie, you've messed about with sims a bit by the sound of it.

What's your take on the degrees of wheel rotation, ie lock-to-lock? I know in the specs the T300 is max 1080° (3 turns L to L) and I set it to the recommended 900° (2.5 turns L to L) and I found it undrivable, just snaking down the track and couldn't get around corners (taking too wide a line). So I checked my old wheel and it has physical of only 180° (1/2 turn L to L, 90° each way) - like go-kart steering :cool:, and that is obviously what I am used to. So I dropped the T300 down to 270° (3/4 turn L to L) and I find it quite drivable.

So I did a bit more research and discover that some (most?) of the games have automatic lock for each of the different cars in the race, and they match it to the real life car of that model - usually ranging from 2.5 to 3.5 turns for GT type cars, and the basic setting of 900° is the magic figure which works with the automatic in-game selection. I guess for realism some people may want to drive in a flurry of arms trying to correct a slide, as you might in real life, but I think I prefer the more direct steering even if its not true to scale. I read that F1 cars usually have about 360° total, which I might try on the F1 2020, which I have only just had a go at. I generally like the usual tracks of Bathurst, Phillip Island, Monza, etc with touring cars, eg TCR, which feel good with my low turning locks. Maybe just what I'm used to.

I'm going to play around with it, but interested in what you may think - or anyone else here who may have some input?

Cheers.
 
Yeah thats about right!

Although the wheel supports 900 degrees, depending on what game you are playing, they will often restrict the limit to match the car and or game. Some do it better then others, and some get confused with good wheels like the T300. Alot of games were made with your Thrustmaster in mind so you sometimes have to force the T300 into a lower ratio.

All in all, what ever feels good to drive is the winer!

I cant remember my settings for rRacing. I was uing a G29 at the time and I spend a lot of time messing with the steering to match the old 60's F1 cars. But yes! you are on the money.
 
VEVOR - This supplier comes up in Tool Talk, and I find they have a good range of cheap (or good value) racing sim stands and seats available. In fact I bought the basic stand ($112 in VEVOR site) for $190 from Amazon AU 2 years ago, not realising VEVOR sell direct. Not sure about delivery, they say free delivery, may vary.
Anyway, the stand I bought (pictured below) is actually pretty good quality, and certainly for that money I would be struggling to make one with the adjustments built in, and much quicker just to open the box.
But now I see they have quite a range, if anyone is looking for a cheap sim rig. I'm thinking about the one with the seat included for about $379. With monitor stand, which I don't need, $576.


(Or just search "racing" on VEVOR's Australian website)

SR00_Basic Frame.jpg
 
OK I've finally done it - got my power seat mounted and working.
Bought this ex VE Commodore driver's seat from a wrecker 2 years ago, with fancy ideas to make an electric adjustable seat for my sim racer. Was looking for any old seat, when he heard what I was doing with it he asked if I wanted this 8-way power seat for $50 - I took it.
Stripped out all the memory modules and other garbage under the seat and just left the motors with 2 wires on each.
Then I recently bought this "rear seat frame" from GT Omega Racing, looked good and lots of work saved for $99.
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Using 25mm galv square tube, made a simple frame to fit the Commodore seat rails.
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Made up a switch box with 4 x DPDT spring return rocker switches (Jaycar for box and switches)
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I needed 10 wires to the switch box from the motors, and used 2 x 5 core trailer wiring cable, easy. That gave me 2 wires of each colour which I allocated to each function plus the power pair.
I measured the current to operate each motor, ranging from 2 - 3.5 amps, with an increase to 6 - 10 amps at the end of travel.
Purchased a 12v 7.5a power supply also from Jaycar, this incorporates a 9amp circuit breaker.
My logic to stop overloading at end of travel was to insert a 5amp auto reset c/b in the switch box, which would cut out at end of travel, but resets shortly afterwards to continue using in reverse direction. (This hasn't worked out yet, the 9A c/b in the power supply cuts out and needs manual reset, might try a 3A in the switch box as it must be a slow acting c/b).

Continued in next post.
 
Continued from post #8.

Had to think about reversing, and simply have crossed each pair of wires at the switch outputs.
It was a bit of a mission to wire up all the connectors, but it was simple enough with the colour coding. Although I marked the 12V wires (red and red/black), I just guessed the other polarities, then tested, and 3 out of 4 were correct (luck) and I just had to swap the 4th one, then I connected each set of crossed wires at the back of each switch.
The Jaycar power supply has a 1.5 metre lead with a cig lighter 12V connector, easy to disconnect if I want to separate the seat from the steering wheel frame. The power supply will be mounted under the monitor stand where I have a 6 way power board.
Note the 5A c/b mounted in the fuse holder at bottom of switch box:
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So there it is - ready to attach to the steering wheel and pedal frame.
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Want to see it working?
Power seat without driver:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4qnShhtcWZoHPMoX8

Power seat with driver (Fordman giving it the 105kg capacity test):
https://photos.app.goo.gl/s336xkLya94dDdr67

Call it Fordman's Folly, but I reckon it's pretty good for a bit of fun. :cool: :cool: :cool:
 
OK, with my new MIG welder (see Technical forum) I have made the missing link, two tubes to adapt the narrower seat frame to the 30mm wider steering frame. I'm pretty happy with the result, it looks almost professional now, with the whole unit bolted together, very solid, and with seat adjustments to suit most people. The electric adjustable seat is purely excessive - isn't that great? :D
I think it's good to go now, can't think of much more to add to it, I'm resisting a manual gearshifter, the wheel has paddles.
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Note the frames are made to be joined together, so the "daisy" screws are supplied with the frames, and are usually joined by straight tubing, adjustable length to suit basic seat distance. I only had to make the "S" adaptor tubes, which are still adjustable in length.

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Making the adaptor tubes:

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I can still use a hacksaw.

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Getting the 15mm offset correct for welding.

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Note for anyone thinking of doing something similar - if these frames were available as cheap as they are now, when I started this setup in 2020, I would have bought one, would have saved me a lot of work and time. At the time I couldn't even find a second hand racing seat anywhere, let alone buy a new one at the price for an approved seat.
The online frame setups now include a racing style seat (obviously not approved for real racing) with the whole setup (not including the steering wheel and pedals, but with monitor brackets, for under $500. Well worth it, just to bolt it together and go!
These are 2 cheapies that I know of - there are plenty of more expensive setups.


https://www.gtomega.com.au/products/art-racing-cockpit

(Note GT Omega looks great but not available for delivery to WA - my setup uses their Rear Seat Frame).

Cheers.
 
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