I need to replace the heater motor on my 2001 scenic rx4 and need some guidance about the process
scenic rx4 heater motor replacement
- Thread starter Peter Parle
- Start date
Ive been here a long time ago. but unfortunately its a dash out job.
fortunately its not hard just a bit fiddly. get organised with places for bolts and screws. I like to use masking tape and mark bolts and where they went, but Im not always that organised
Peter, I have replaced the heater motor {blower motor, interior fan unit, heater fan} call it several things to search for information. renaultforums.co.uk might be a good place to look. They seem to find the problems we do not get so much here.
I believe that is where I found my information and good pictures. I changed the resistor first then later the fan motor unit which had siezed due to the water that got into it and ruined the bearings (because the scuttle drains were blocked) and the fan housing had rusty "tide lines" inside showing the water levels reached. So fix the drains, and clean out the pollen filter and ducts to prevent the resistor burning out.
As I remember it doing my 2003 Scenic, more than a year ago. I did remove the dashboard top which is not so hard to do. But I did not remove the whole dash board. The blower unit can be undone from underneath but will not just come out easily. So I saw a suggestion that there is a light weight bracket in the way on the left side there somewhere, that gets in the way. It suggested that could be bent back to allow the unit to come out. So I did that with a shifter. Then I could juggle the unit and rotate it to remove it and replaced it with the new one. Then bent the bracket back. The bracket did not appear to actually do anything much but possibly hold back some wiring harness in place.
Of course there are the interior side kick panels and other stuff to get out too. And I think i unbolted the PS seat and pushed it into the rear to give me room to work up-side down under the dash.
I bought the resistor and the fan unit off ebay locally for a modest cost. Ask me if you want more information and I could look it up. When i bought the car the fan did not blow much even on full because the interior filter and duct was all clogged with leaves and crud. I should have investigated that and cleaned them out and the scuttle drains too as a first priority because it was causing water to build up and flood the interior ventilation system and fan housing and the floor.
Good luck jaahn
I believe that is where I found my information and good pictures. I changed the resistor first then later the fan motor unit which had siezed due to the water that got into it and ruined the bearings (because the scuttle drains were blocked) and the fan housing had rusty "tide lines" inside showing the water levels reached. So fix the drains, and clean out the pollen filter and ducts to prevent the resistor burning out.
As I remember it doing my 2003 Scenic, more than a year ago. I did remove the dashboard top which is not so hard to do. But I did not remove the whole dash board. The blower unit can be undone from underneath but will not just come out easily. So I saw a suggestion that there is a light weight bracket in the way on the left side there somewhere, that gets in the way. It suggested that could be bent back to allow the unit to come out. So I did that with a shifter. Then I could juggle the unit and rotate it to remove it and replaced it with the new one. Then bent the bracket back. The bracket did not appear to actually do anything much but possibly hold back some wiring harness in place.
Of course there are the interior side kick panels and other stuff to get out too. And I think i unbolted the PS seat and pushed it into the rear to give me room to work up-side down under the dash.
I bought the resistor and the fan unit off ebay locally for a modest cost. Ask me if you want more information and I could look it up. When i bought the car the fan did not blow much even on full because the interior filter and duct was all clogged with leaves and crud. I should have investigated that and cleaned them out and the scuttle drains too as a first priority because it was causing water to build up and flood the interior ventilation system and fan housing and the floor.
Good luck jaahn
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Thanks for your help Jaahn. I've been planning to replace/repair the fan motor for several years and have put up with a loud, grinding noise from the fan although it has continued to work quite well. I had exactly the same problem with water getting into the motor and I suspect the bearings have partly rusted so I hope to remove the motor, replace the bearings and hope it works! I have removed the top part of the dashboard and was puzzled as to how to proceed. Your advice is very helpful. I'll let you know how I go.Peter, I have replaced the heater motor {blower motor, interior fan unit, heater fan} call it several things to search for information. renaultforums.co.uk might be a good place to look. They seem to find the problems we do not get so much here.
I believe that is where I found my information and good pictures. I changed the resistor first then later the fan motor unit which had siezed due to the water that got into it and ruined the bearings (because the scuttle drains were blocked) and the fan housing had rusty "tide lines" inside showing the water levels reached. So fix the drains, and clean out the pollen filter and ducts to prevent the resistor burning out.
As I remember it doing my 2003 Scenic, more than a year ago. I did remove the dashboard top which is not so hard to do. But I did not remove the whole dash board. The blower unit can be undone from underneath but will not just come out easily. So I saw a suggestion that there is a light weight bracket in the way on the left side there somewhere, that gets in the way. It suggested that could be bent back to allow the unit to come out. So I did that with a shifter. Then I could juggle the unit and rotate it to remove it and replaced it with the new one. Then bent the bracket back. The bracket did not appear to actually do anything much but possibly hold back some wiring harness in place.
Of course there are the interior side kick panels and other stuff to get out too. And I think i unbolted the PS seat and pushed it into the rear to give me room to work up-side down under the dash.
I bought the resistor and the fan unit off ebay locally for a modest cost. Ask me if you want more information and I could look it up. When i bought the car the fan did not blow much even on full because the interior filter and duct was all clogged with leaves and crud. I should have investigated that and cleaned them out and the scuttle drains too as a first priority because it was causing water to build up and flood the interior ventilation system and fan housing and the floor.
Good luck jaahn
Kind regards, Peter.
I was able to remove the heater motor/fan (without removing the dash) from my 2004 Scenic 1 in Sept 2014 - I posted a procedure on this forum but cant find it now, maybe it was swallowed up in a forum problem a few years ago.
However, I still have the photos on file, so I will give a brief description and all my photos to follow.
It looked like the fan assembly would come out from below, and it does. I remember it being a bit fiddly, and you need a good back to look in under there I think.
Photos should explain. The main problem was it just wouldn't come out because a lower dash bracket was preventing it by just a small amount. I was able to cut some excess metal off the bracket, as shown, and remove the assembly. For clarification, I think the bracket I cut a piece off, is the bracket with the screw shown in the first photo, from which I have removed the nut.
Like others have mentioned, the cause of water ingress is probably a blocked plenum drain, the rubber flapper gets stuck up with muddy gunge. I was able to lubricate the lower motor bush/bearing to stop it squeaking loudly, but it probably needed replacing. I also drilled a small hole in the lower cover to drain any further water out - if it did it would drip into the passenger left foot area, better than staying in the motor.
Lower left dash area.
Looking up under dash left hand side. The barcode sticker is the bottom of the heater fan assy. I chopped off the indicated bracket to make clearance. I used a mini power power recip saw to do the job - bought for the purpose and worth it.
3 screws hold the assembly in place. Remove the foam insualtion in the photo below to get access. And of course there is at least one electrical plug to disconnect.
However, I still have the photos on file, so I will give a brief description and all my photos to follow.
It looked like the fan assembly would come out from below, and it does. I remember it being a bit fiddly, and you need a good back to look in under there I think.
Photos should explain. The main problem was it just wouldn't come out because a lower dash bracket was preventing it by just a small amount. I was able to cut some excess metal off the bracket, as shown, and remove the assembly. For clarification, I think the bracket I cut a piece off, is the bracket with the screw shown in the first photo, from which I have removed the nut.
Like others have mentioned, the cause of water ingress is probably a blocked plenum drain, the rubber flapper gets stuck up with muddy gunge. I was able to lubricate the lower motor bush/bearing to stop it squeaking loudly, but it probably needed replacing. I also drilled a small hole in the lower cover to drain any further water out - if it did it would drip into the passenger left foot area, better than staying in the motor.
Lower left dash area.
Looking up under dash left hand side. The barcode sticker is the bottom of the heater fan assy. I chopped off the indicated bracket to make clearance. I used a mini power power recip saw to do the job - bought for the purpose and worth it.
3 screws hold the assembly in place. Remove the foam insualtion in the photo below to get access. And of course there is at least one electrical plug to disconnect.
Great information from Fordman. Gees this forum is a great resource !
Thinking about my suggestions again after reading this. I probably did not need to remove the top of the dash to remove the fan unit. It needs removal to access the resistor and ducts etc. But removal might let you see down under better. It is not hard to do.
As Fordman said it is fiddly to turn and juggle the unit to come out and just needs that extra bit of space where the bracket is. I did just bend it back using a shifter and then rebent it straight after(as a person on another forum had suggested).
I looked at my fan motor and though it looked very sad and not worth me repairing and spent a modest bit of money $65 to buy a new one. Supplied from an Aussie supplier so not much waiting. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/294911222690 They might be even cheaper now.
Good luck jaahn
Thinking about my suggestions again after reading this. I probably did not need to remove the top of the dash to remove the fan unit. It needs removal to access the resistor and ducts etc. But removal might let you see down under better. It is not hard to do.
As Fordman said it is fiddly to turn and juggle the unit to come out and just needs that extra bit of space where the bracket is. I did just bend it back using a shifter and then rebent it straight after(as a person on another forum had suggested).
I looked at my fan motor and though it looked very sad and not worth me repairing and spent a modest bit of money $65 to buy a new one. Supplied from an Aussie supplier so not much waiting. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/294911222690 They might be even cheaper now.
Good luck jaahn
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Don’t forget the DuckDuckGo search box on the forum homepage works well.
I just requested “scenic dash heater fordman” and got this result:
Renault Scenic 2002 heater fan not working
Anyone point me in the right direction- where to look, probable fault etc
www.aussiefrogs.com
I'm glad you guys chimed in, thanks for the 'hack' Fordman
If your blower is beyond repair, let me know, I should be able to find a spare.
It IS a roadworthy item too.
If your blower is beyond repair, let me know, I should be able to find a spare.
It IS a roadworthy item too.