Renault Clip scanner needed for 2003 Scenic and 2015 Clio problems

jaahn

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Hi Has anyone got a Renault Clip scanner and laptop that I can use on the two cars above. Loan, borrow, hire please. I am in the Newcastle area so a unit that is close would be good or any other ideas please. Post ?
The Scenic appears to have a immobiliser problem. I need to ask it if that is the problem or some other mystery fault. Not much information available to ordinary scanners.
The Clio has a problem with the rear camera and it may need to be enabled. Hmm !
Any help out there for me !!
Jaahn
 
Re: The immobiliser problem on the Scenic have you tried disconnected the battery for about 5 minutes Jaahn? I had an issue with my Laguna ii that would not start after I had refuelled at a service station. Disconnected the battery for 5 minutes rectified the fault and the car would start. Definitely worth a try.
 
My Scenic had same problem and there is a reset button for the automatic but it was not actually connecting properly. Once I reset the auto it was ok. I am always a battery fault first person with modern Renaults. Low volts or low volts when cranking. That's all I know about them.
 
Thanks for those ideas. I have disconnected the battery and left it for a while before. I have fitted a new battery also. The problem has been around for a while. I thought I had solved it by replacing the auto selector switch as it was faulty. That fixed that side of it but the occasional non start came back and a fiddle in the front fuse relay unit and some new EFI main relays seemed to get it going but some little time back it refused to start and still does not go. The remote key locks and unlocks the doors OK. I checked the coils feed pulses and they seem to be absent. The fuel pump is switched on and off as expected. The engine cranks OK and the immobiliser dash light does the sequence that it should do as described in the Renault Dialogie document !.

Hmm there is plenty of scarey stuff on the web about the immobiliser failing and even some people hacking into the ecu to remove a chip ??
:oops:There are little circuit boards for sale that they say can fool the ecu etc etc !! But they need a Clip and some vital numbers to code them to work etc.
I decided I should stop guessing and ask the little man in the ECU what he thought about it.;)
jaahn
HMMn here is another suggestion but mine is an earlier model unit.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/142852623095

Emulator Immobilizer For Renault ECU Decoder Used To Decode The Ecu No Pin​

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Well I have disconnected the battery for a while, investigated the red reset button operation(actually an impact fuel cut) and then went through the front fuse/relay unit checking for corrosion, bad pins, individually removing all relays and fuses(and diode !), the multi plugs and spraying and checking !! And the main battery wires and earths around there. No start still. Indeed nothing bad was noted.

I would have removed the ECU connector and done the same for it, but it has a heavy metal shield that I could not remove ?? WTF ! I might be a bit thick but the top would not come off and the two bolts inside it could not be accessed by a socket through the holes, as the top part did not allow it ?? Why ! The manual say nothing of course so I left it be after 15 minutes wasted trying, even a bit of hammer work !

Hmm I had previously looked at the inside underdash fuse board but will remove it and give it the going over too next and find the immobiliser I guess. Bloody waste of time. Sick of it. Hakon might lend me his Clip and computer to do the scanning. But he is in another state.
I have scanned it with a couple of simple scanners and NOTHING. Not even an ID of any units. NO codes or reports even if I force the scanner to recognise it as something else !
Bah humbug ! :mad: Send me a box of matches ! Jaahn
I am also sick of watching UTube videos of fixing this problem. Some are just wistful thinking, some might be useful but in a foreign language and often badly filmed too, so I am not sure what they are actually fixing. A couple that involve cutting into the ecu and removing a chip for reprograming. Hm not going there for sure ! Hard to sort the wheat from the chaff. Given up there I think.
 
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When u was trying to troubleshoot the Megane (three workshops took my money but failed to be useful…) that turned out to be an incorrect flywheel with the wrong crank angle sensor teeth, I was looking around for a proper diagnostic place. I think there is a guy in Sydney that does a mobile service and works on actually diagnostic practices - not just reading a bloody code (grrr…).

I’ll see if I can find who it was… Even if he doesn’t go that far north he might be helpful.
 
If you want to see a proper diagnostic guy in action, look up Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics on YouTube. Amazing work he does!
 
I can’t remember if this was the place u was thinking of, but this is the sort of business you want. Specialises in diagnostics, has a Pico tool. Maybe give him a call - if he doesn’t ever go up your way he might know someone who does.

 
Ok I have found that place, looks good. I will brouse their videos and see what I learn. It appears to be a huge change from the usual videos that I have found about Renaults. But I guess here, they will be hard to find being worked on !! :rolleyes:
"This is the official channel for Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, based in State College, PA. Applying the scientific method and basic principles to automotive diagnostics and repair. Most videos feature live troubleshooting of automotive drivability and electrical problems. Playlists are well-organized by categories and manufacturer for easy browsing."
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCn4Ifss-t3wMT6VBzQoKPUA
No Renaults as far as I can see. Lots of other vehicles and a selection of their usual European cars listed as a lot under MAKES but no Froggies.
cheers jaahn
 
Ok I have found that place, looks good. I will brouse their videos and see what I learn. It appears to be a huge change from the usual videos that I have found about Renaults. But I guess here, they will be hard to find being worked on !! :rolleyes:
"This is the official channel for Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, based in State College, PA. Applying the scientific method and basic principles to automotive diagnostics and repair. Most videos feature live troubleshooting of automotive drivability and electrical problems. Playlists are well-organized by categories and manufacturer for easy browsing."
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCn4Ifss-t3wMT6VBzQoKPUA
No Renaults as far as I can see. Lots of other vehicles and a selection of their usual European cars listed as a lot under MAKES but no Froggies.
cheers jaahn
No, thats an American channel :) But just for getting all nerdy and learning about the skills that exist for sorting out problems. Like identifying stretched timing chains by analysing crank angle sensors against pressure readings.
 
Hmm I have not made any progress. There must be some expertise for this problem from some of our many members and watchers. PLEASE o_O:cautious:
An auto does not have the problematic crank angle sensor. Not sure what they use on the autos for crank angle ??
I have not been able to get any normal scanner to talk to the port so far.
Jaahn
 
Gee thanks Dave I will contact you about a time ! Your professional gear might be just the answer to pin pointing the cause, rather than an old legacy scan system !.
Actually today i tried a few of the unlikely fixes I found on overseas forums, and damm me buttons I got it to start twice. I located and pulled the fuse for the remote control/immobiliser for a short time. Then when replaced it was firing. I replaced the spark LT lead correctly and it started and ran OK for some time. I tried restarting again after a while but no go. so I pulled the fuse again and it went again. Hmm a short term fix as a previous person on a forum had said.

So I have fitted a switch on the fuse so i can turn it on and off easier than getting my head under the dash. Those small fuses are a PITA to get back in if looking at an angle as are those silly fuse tools you get to use.

So I will look at some of the other things around that area and the connections if i can access them. But possibly a modern scanner will point to the exact problem. The immobiliser, the key system or a bad connection. So hope seems possible now :rolleyes: ;)

Jaahn
 
You have made some progress Jaahn. At least you know that it will start.

There is usually a little extraction tool for those tiny fuses in the fuse box. I'm pretty sure my Laguna has such a tool.

Your problem does sound like an immobiliser problem, will be interesting what the actual problem is when you find it.
 
Does your 2003 Scenic have ignition key or card reader?
Is it 2wd or the RX4?
Alex it is a 'series 1' with a single button key, and 2WD.
There are plenty of older threads on UK forums for fixes, most sound dubious anyway but I tried several and got a result as I described. :rolleyes:
On the Renault UK forum they refuse to allow anyone to say how to delete or disable the immobliser and delete any useful stuff I might like to see !! That was probably a good idea in the days when these cars were more current and valuable but now a bl**dy nuisance as you do not get the final fix ! :cautious:
 
hey Jaahn, give this a go.
There's an exe with a tab for Key, download the rar.
1. Ignition ON

2. Press and hold the central locking button for 5 seconds

3. LED on the dash board will go off, come back on and begin to flash. The flashes correspond to the first digit of the 4 PIN security code - release the button when the first digit has been 'flashed' and then press the button again.

4. Wait for the second digit to be 'flashed' then release and re-press the button - continue until all digits have been entered.

5. If you have entered the code correctly the LED will then go out and the car can be started - to code the remote, switch off the ignition and press the central locking button again.

6. Press remote button 2 times within the immediate vicinity of the pick up (in the roof) On some vehicles you may need to switch the ignition back on to achieve this however.
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have you taken the key cover off to see its code??
 
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Just on David's post #17 years ago I had problems with my Laguna 1 V6 where the immobiliser stopped me not only starting the car but also locking and unlocking the car. I found a site called BBA Reman which unfortunately does not exist anymore. From this sight I downloaded a bit of software and inputted the code that was inside the key fob and also some info from the plaque that was on the drivers B pillar. This software then gave me a code that I inputted into the car via the trip computer and the accelerator pedal.

Here is a link to my 1995 Laguna 1 immobiliser thread.


The other option is to phone a Renault dealer to get the code.

This code permanently disabled the immobiliser until I re-synchronised the keys to the car.

I had a bit of a look on the interweb for some similar software but came up with nothing. The BBa Reman website had lots of useful info on it for all sorts of European cars.
 
yea it seems there are some windows executables floating around with the magic formulas. There is a program to download in the comments of the youtube video.

I have a spare RX4 Im tempted to pull the ECU etc out of and see if I can't reprogram a key with it.


Archive.org might have some files or clues to where to find them. The UK renault forums too are all broken links now. "BBA Reman" do you have an address? "trip computer and the accelerator pedal." thats pretty cool. We need to test and document some of these things. on the scenic1 / meganes it seems its inputted with the central door lock and flashing immobiliser lights.

The Lag2V6 had a very hard to beleive sequence to recode a 3rd key including opening and closing the door and the accelerator pedal. bloody worked tho. I didn't write it down!
 
it is a 'series 1' with a single button key, and 2WD.
Ah, I thought 2003 was series2.
I think yours has the PLIP immobiliser, do you have the dialogys MR312MEGANE8.pdf describing the PLIP?
But you never know, it could also have the Coded key immobiliser, check to see if there is a coil around the ign key barrel to read the key head? If it has the Coded Key, 10 seconds after ign is turned off the immobiliser warning light starts flashing once per second.

You mention once started it will start a few times and then stops again. Even if doors are not locked the PLIP ECU will automatically start blinking the immobiliser warning light and send immobilise signal to engine ecu 10 minutes (or 1 min for some markets) after ign is turned off. See extracts for PLIP below.

What fuse number and amperage are you disconnecting? I think there may be 2 fuses involved


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