Thank you KB and Scotty. I am quite aware of the R8G engines but had no idea of the R5A. Thank you for clearing up the confusion.
Regards
Chopper Bob
Regards
Chopper Bob
R8 gordini motor
- Thread starter chris hartwell
- Start date
Water Punp !!
R8 nut,
Semantics, the back of the motor is at the back of the car.??
The water pump needs to be moved to the other end of the head, and probably a R8/10 or R12 can be bolted on, easy with a bit of modification to to the water transport ports at the ends of the head. On my R5 Mk2 with a R5G head, I used the R5G pump with a 12mm spacer.And a hand made Ali timing cover with a seal in it with duplex timing chain and the timing pulley still on the crank shaft end. Look at the attached picture, not my work, but a good example in a R8/10, with rear radiator. Second is a way to solve the use of standard engine cross member. From AF a while back.
R8 nut,
Semantics, the back of the motor is at the back of the car.??
The water pump needs to be moved to the other end of the head, and probably a R8/10 or R12 can be bolted on, easy with a bit of modification to to the water transport ports at the ends of the head. On my R5 Mk2 with a R5G head, I used the R5G pump with a 12mm spacer.And a hand made Ali timing cover with a seal in it with duplex timing chain and the timing pulley still on the crank shaft end. Look at the attached picture, not my work, but a good example in a R8/10, with rear radiator. Second is a way to solve the use of standard engine cross member. From AF a while back.
Attachments
1st pic is my R8 2nd pic is a C6J in an R10 I own.
I'm not trying to split hairs or argue anything Ray, just point out my terminology.
The poor old 8 hasn't been driven for over 10 years as I've been playing with other things. and run out of diffs.
It really does look rather dishevelled doesn't it..... this pic was taken about a year ago.
Alexander - No reason why you couldn't run an electric WP. You'd need to try and fit an inlet/outlet in place of the 5 WP which could be a tight squeeze with the petrol tank cover. Or you could weld up the waterways in the front and use it there but then it's just as easy to fit a mechanical pump. I'm currently in the process of putting an electric pump in my MG as the thermostats keep failing closed.....
I'm not trying to split hairs or argue anything Ray, just point out my terminology.
The poor old 8 hasn't been driven for over 10 years as I've been playing with other things. and run out of diffs.
It really does look rather dishevelled doesn't it..... this pic was taken about a year ago.
Alexander - No reason why you couldn't run an electric WP. You'd need to try and fit an inlet/outlet in place of the 5 WP which could be a tight squeeze with the petrol tank cover. Or you could weld up the waterways in the front and use it there but then it's just as easy to fit a mechanical pump. I'm currently in the process of putting an electric pump in my MG as the thermostats keep failing closed.....
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Wheelspin !!!
R8nut,
Was never trying to get to you just make a point.
Now to make more of a point, these are two very good ways of getting the newer motors into the older rear engined cars. I must complement you on the concept, and still with the rad in the back. And the way of the rear engine cross member mount. Did you cut the camshaft and bring it back inside the block on the one shown? I have a friend in the States who is building a rear engine as well, and I used the pictures to show what needs to be done, as he is putting a R5A in a Duphine. And doing a very good job.
Now you must start working on these, or let somebody have them so they can be put back on the road to be driven.
R8nut,
Was never trying to get to you just make a point.
Now to make more of a point, these are two very good ways of getting the newer motors into the older rear engined cars. I must complement you on the concept, and still with the rad in the back. And the way of the rear engine cross member mount. Did you cut the camshaft and bring it back inside the block on the one shown? I have a friend in the States who is building a rear engine as well, and I used the pictures to show what needs to be done, as he is putting a R5A in a Duphine. And doing a very good job.
Now you must start working on these, or let somebody have them so they can be put back on the road to be driven.
Yep on mine and a couple of others I've shortened the cam and used a std 1.4 block to house all the good bits. In theory you could just leave the extension on and the oil seal in place with no pulley, but, as I like dirt roads I thought it may not be such a good idea.
As a note to all and sundry....If you use a donor block you absolutely need to fit the cam bearing in the end journal before you fit the welsch plug to seal it all up. R12 blocks don't use cam bearings so you need to get the R5 one.
Also, the block to bellhousing braces MUST be on.
The 10 had the C6 engine fitted in 2 days with no mods to the engine But it is far from ideal.
I know I really should pull out the finger and put one back together but I've been given a supercharged MGBGT to play with at the right price($0) and I really need to find a proper fix for the gearbox issues as I have turned off the output splines on 3 gearboxes and smashed the planetary gears on another 2.
I know Frans has a good fix, but I'm thinking R16TX 5 speed and custom double wishbones at the back would be more fun.
I just need an english wheel to remake the sills as a previous owner filled them up with expanding foam to catch and trap any moisture. Subsequently they have vanished,,,,,,,
As a note to all and sundry....If you use a donor block you absolutely need to fit the cam bearing in the end journal before you fit the welsch plug to seal it all up. R12 blocks don't use cam bearings so you need to get the R5 one.
Also, the block to bellhousing braces MUST be on.
The 10 had the C6 engine fitted in 2 days with no mods to the engine But it is far from ideal.
I know I really should pull out the finger and put one back together but I've been given a supercharged MGBGT to play with at the right price($0) and I really need to find a proper fix for the gearbox issues as I have turned off the output splines on 3 gearboxes and smashed the planetary gears on another 2.
I know Frans has a good fix, but I'm thinking R16TX 5 speed and custom double wishbones at the back would be more fun.
I just need an english wheel to remake the sills as a previous owner filled them up with expanding foam to catch and trap any moisture. Subsequently they have vanished,,,,,,,
There's nothing you can't get on eBay, for the right money:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/culasse-...ltDomain_71&hash=item19c60c3cb9#ht_500wt_1156
Literally tons of Gordini stuff...serious money, but hey, you should try collecting Fiat Abarth parts!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/culasse-...ltDomain_71&hash=item19c60c3cb9#ht_500wt_1156
Literally tons of Gordini stuff...serious money, but hey, you should try collecting Fiat Abarth parts!
R5alpine motor for R8G replica
Most of the guys in france put the water pump from a r10 or 12 on the back of the r5A head and you ccan buy a gordini cam from mecaparts that will work in the R5A motor. I think you could also cut the end off if you felt that was cheaper. If you do put the motor with the waterpump on the flywheel side i think it best to get the belhousing of the R5A gearbox, I spoke to a bloke who commented that they had cut holes in the R10 one, but it made it a bit weak.
You could put the R5A internals into a 1.4 block but the R5A has bigger oil galleries, not sure if that would have any major effect on the motor. A good engine builder could enlarge the oil galleries at any rate.
Caravelle motors has R5A piston and sleve kits available I think.
We sourced our motor from the UK for about $500 with a gearbox in tow.
Hope you find what you are looking for mate
Most of the guys in france put the water pump from a r10 or 12 on the back of the r5A head and you ccan buy a gordini cam from mecaparts that will work in the R5A motor. I think you could also cut the end off if you felt that was cheaper. If you do put the motor with the waterpump on the flywheel side i think it best to get the belhousing of the R5A gearbox, I spoke to a bloke who commented that they had cut holes in the R10 one, but it made it a bit weak.
You could put the R5A internals into a 1.4 block but the R5A has bigger oil galleries, not sure if that would have any major effect on the motor. A good engine builder could enlarge the oil galleries at any rate.
Caravelle motors has R5A piston and sleve kits available I think.
We sourced our motor from the UK for about $500 with a gearbox in tow.
Hope you find what you are looking for mate
Surprisingly things do turn up when you least expect it. An R1135 changed hands in Australia recently from an owner that had owned it for over 30 years. It had not been advertised or even mentioned by word of mouth that it could change hands. Someone just called him and asked the question.
Sounds similar to how I got my car. A mate found out someone still had the car, who then told a disinterested me, who tagged along for a look after being told it was taking up space.
Gordini Engine.
Hello.
I have got a spare R8 Gordini engine if you are interested.
Thanks.
Hello.
I have got a spare R8 Gordini engine if you are interested.
Thanks.
1100 or 1300? Short or long? Any chance of an engine number?