Is this the best project car you have ever seen?

[DoubleChevron]

I just found this! Computer alignment center SUN 9820 | Other Electronics & Computers | Gumtree Australia Hobsons Bay Area - Williamstown North

Yeah it's the same machine. You don't actually need the machine, you can set the toe in with a tape measure or extendable tent pole or similar. However it should have some really nice heavy turntables with it that both rotate and pivot in every direction. It would be worth the asking price just for these, even if it didn't work!

If it just beeps like crazy when it's plugged in, pull the back off it and push all the ram chips into there holders. It's all discrete electronics and everything than be easily fixed. The "heads" you attach to the wheels are just variable resisters that tie back to the back wheels with elastic strings. It's a very simple elegant solution compared to lazers and fancy computer based machines. You should be able to leave the engine running to do CX front ends etc...

It's quite slow and tedious to calibrate for each car, so I can see they wouldn't be used in undustry these days

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[caparobertsan]

Yeah it's the same machine. You don't actually need the machine, you can set the toe in with a tape measure or extendable tent pole or similar. However it should have some really nice heavy turntables with it that both rotate and pivot in every direction. It would be worth the asking price just for these, even if it didn't work!

If it just beeps like crazy when it's plugged in, pull the back off it and push all the ram chips into there holders. It's all discrete electronics and everything than be easily fixed. The "heads" you attach to the wheels are just variable resisters that tie back to the back wheels with elastic strings. It's a very simple elegant solution compared to lazers and fancy computer based machines. You should be able to leave the engine running to do CX front ends etc...

It's quite slow and tedious to calibrate for each car, so I can see they wouldn't be used in undustry these days

seeya,
Shane L.

Nah~ I wont be able to buy it no space and Now I know you have it and set up for ID so we can just rock up to your garage. I step closer to the VIC Citroen repair centre:roflmao:?

 

[DoubleChevron]

How frustrating is this...

I've spent quite a bit of time checking and repairing the small brackets that hold the trumpets on the 'C' pillars right, fixed up the wiring to the indicators .... smothered everything in nice fresh silicon grease so it will never rust again.... Also spent several hours chasing every bolt and nut for the roof. ran the tap through the captive nuts on the roof. Pressure washed the roof both sides ..... fitted the seal and most of the bolts, it pulled down snugly ... Infact I'm 99.975% sure it wouldn't leak, even without mastic ..... The roof fits like a glove when the cant rail and roof itself is in good condition!

I also glued the seal across the top of the back window into place, and every one of the little rubber spacers that sit on the cant rail bolt holes

I wanted to use this for now as ... it was sound, for some reason it's a nice bolt on roof (even though it's from a '74 model car) ....

And it has a headlining. This way I can fit a new head lining to the aluminium roof and paint it off the car in time.

So why is it frustrating ....... I went to check the fit of the trumpets before final fitting of the bolts towards the rear of the roof and found this....

AAARRRRRhhhhhhhh....... I guess I try to chase up a head lining for the aluminium roof this week and fit it unpainted. Why couldn't I have noticed this before I went to the effort of cleaning and tidying it up and fitting it. The break is full of dust, but still fresh looking. We must have done it when we removed the roof last year (how I have no idea, I thought the fiberglass roof was quite strong). No it hasn't been stored sitting on the back edge either.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[Hotrodelectric]

I'm a little surprised you didn't see that as it was going on the car- that's a pretty good sized hole. If you're going to the trouble of removing the roof (I know- pain in the ass), why not fix that and reinstall the roof, then stick to your original plan of tarting up the aluminum roof as time permits? Seems to me easier than looking for an aluminum roof headliner in a near panic. Given your skills, that should be doable. Surely in your pile of parts you have an old roof you can take a repair section from.

 

[gerrypro]

Looks like you are going to learn some new fibre glassing skills. It should not be too difficult to reinstate that roof! Could probably be done with the roof in situ!

 

[DoubleChevron]

I'm a little surprised you didn't see that as it was going on the car- that's a pretty good sized hole. If you're going to the trouble of removing the roof (I know- pain in the ass), why not fix that and reinstall the roof, then stick to your original plan of tarting up the aluminum roof as time permits? Seems to me easier than looking for an aluminum roof headliner in a near panic. Given your skills, that should be doable. Surely in your pile of parts you have an old roof you can take a repair section from.

Actually, it's not that surprising..... Other than when I pressure washed it, it's been upside down. The main thing I wanted to check was the integrity of the frame it bolts down from. I couldn't understand why it bolted from so many spots. I checked the roof off my fathers DS23 and it looks like it has a really frail dodgy "edge/frame" running around it from underneath. They must have used bolt on roofs right up to the '70s. The break is very obvious now I've found and scratched around it. Yeah it could be repaired. I'm not overly concerned, I was thinking that roof should go onto the DS23 until I found this damage. It must have had the back edge "levered over" some how when it was sitting on the wreck. There is no way we did that damage removing/refitting it. You don't go near the back edge of the roof.

 

[caparobertsan]

How frustrating is this...

I've spent quite a bit of time checking and repairing the small brackets that hold the trumpets on the 'C' pillars right, fixed up the wiring to the indicators .... smothered everything in nice fresh silicon grease so it will never rust again.... Also spent several hours chasing every bolt and nut for the roof. ran the tap through the captive nuts on the roof. Pressure washed the roof both sides ..... fitted the seal and most of the bolts, it pulled down snugly ... Infact I'm 99.975% sure it wouldn't leak, even without mastic ..... The roof fits like a glove when the cant rail and roof itself is in good condition!

I also glued the seal across the top of the back window into place, and every one of the little rubber spacers that sit on the cant rail bolt holes

I wanted to use this for now as ... it was sound, for some reason it's a nice bolt on roof (even though it's from a '74 model car) ....

And it has a headlining. This way I can fit a new head lining to the aluminium roof and paint it off the car in time.

So why is it frustrating ....... I went to check the fit of the trumpets before final fitting of the bolts towards the rear of the roof and found this....

AAARRRRRhhhhhhhh....... I guess I try to chase up a head lining for the aluminium roof this week and fit it unpainted. Why couldn't I have noticed this before I went to the effort of cleaning and tidying it up and fitting it. The break is full of dust, but still fresh looking. We must have done it when we removed the roof last year (how I have no idea, I thought the fiberglass roof was quite strong). No it hasn't been stored sitting on the back edge either.

seeya,
Shane L.

Can that be repaired with fibreglass repair kit?

 

[DoubleChevron]

Looks like you are going to learn some new fibre glassing skills. It should not be too difficult to reinstate that roof! Could probably be done with the roof in situ!

Yep, you'd have to bolt a roof to a car to do any work on it. There not rigid enough to work on unless bolted into place It should be an easy fix if one was bothered My brother should have everything to repair fiberglass from doing his boat. You'd just brace from behind, and use normal automotive putty from above to make it look pretty and level. The roof is quite stained and needs to be painted either way. The "aged" way it looks now suites the pre-painted look of the car perfectly

 

[alexander]

Shane i realise you have a number of cars so is the one under discussion the one which only needed some paint splashed on it, back in 2011, or is this a different one?

sent from my .GT110XZX589-P3 de luxe Peanut Butter Sandwich Hyper Tablet. not that you'd care.

 

[Roger Wilkinson]

Back then, when Shane pulled it out of my shed, it did not need any paint splashed on it. It still doesn't.

It did not need a full rebuild either. The engine was stuffed, and so was a lot of the rubber. It had had the wrong hydraulic fluid put in it, so the hydraulics needed work. Everything else was pretty good.

Roger

 

[DoubleChevron]

It really does need painting incredibly badly, at the moment you can never let it get wet. I've coated most of the accessible areas of the hull/chassis (except for underneath that I'll do in time). The bodywork is the same as it always was. I quite like the patina of it, but the paint is old .... very old.... many decades old, and has crazed back to the bare metal (like laquer does when aged). I haven't really done much to the car, it's just taken me a couple of years as I've had so much other stuff happening. The cars sat for months at a time without being touched.

I'm hoping to be able to start driving in around a bit in a few weeks time to see how sorted it is. It still needs wiper blades, washers and sun visors re-installed before it'll pass a safety inspection, other than that it's good to go. All the suspension is good, brakes done, new tires, all the ball joints, bearings and bushes are as new, the spheres are regassed, every single hydraulic line has been flushed, every rubber hose replaced... the front ends setup .... the interior is replaced, I've made the firewall as "air/fume" proof as possible.

the dash has been bead blasted, painted and re-assembled. Everything under the bonnet has been stripped, tested and coated while being assembled.... Like most thing D's I started with "just swapping the motor" ......................... then ended up with the nose of the car stripped back for painting, then the firewall stripping clean, then the dash out to sort the wiring, the front floors out for repair, which allowed me to see the back floors needed painting, which found the tank cover was unbolted, so I pulled the seats out ........ which lead me to fiddling in the boot and fixing the boot floor, which in turn lead me upto the back window and winscreen which I found had no paint and were covered in surface rust .................. which means I had to pull them out to clean/coat them ......... which lead me to finding the roof should come off to tidy up the windscreen surround and cant rail ......................... get the picture of how things snowballed :roflmao: :roflmao: None *NEEDED* doing as such, but if I'd used the car, it would have rotted away before my eyes if it got wet. There really was no paint left on anything (what paint there was I could scrape off with my thumbnail).

It'll be a running, driving car that looks pretty much identical to what it did in the pictures on the very first page of this thread. the difference is it now doesn't really matter if it gets water in it, or driven on wet roads (other than of course the panels themselves rusting). The final step once painted will obviously be to fill all the hulls box sections with oil. This will be the very last thing to be done ... when the cars finally painted (probably a couple of years from now). Otherwise if you find anywhere that needs welding, you set the car on fire doing the welding 'cos of the oil you poured everywhere :roflmao:

seeya
Shane L.

 

[David S]

Shane, if the roof is only temporary, fill the crack with some white sealant. It shouldn't leak anyway as that extreme end overhangs the rear hoop.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Shane, if the roof is only temporary, fill the crack with some white sealant. It shouldn't leak anyway as that extreme end overhangs the rear hoop.

I'm still scratching my head about that one .... I bet someone (yeah most likely me) sat something on the roof while it was "sort of" sitting on a car over the last year. With the roof bolted down and the trumpet attached most wouldn't see that crack unless it was pointed out to them. Yes it won't leak anywhere as it's the bit that overhangs the rear window.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[fritzelhund]

Shane, that bit of damaged fibreglass is an easy amateur job. It overhangs as mentioned before, and is non structural. I daresay you could go to Bunnings and get a small fibreglass repair kit that would do the job. Your biggest problem is gravity as the repair will need to be dammed up for up to 24 hours to let the mixture "set". If it goes pear shaped, wait a couple of days and sand it back coarsely and try again. Remove a trumpet and the rear finishing strip for better access and give it a go... packing tape or quality duct tape will be "grippy" enough to beat gravity for the length of time it takes to go off. Read the directions, remember pot life may be sped up too if it becomes awkward but ambient temperature may be your problem in winter.

 

[Roger Wilkinson]

Just spray a clear coat over the old paint.

Roger

 

[DoubleChevron]

Just spray a clear coat over the old paint.

Roger

It wouldn't stick, all of the hulls paint "fell off" mostly just by hosing it, leaving bare metal behind. I have stripped one rear guard as it's paint was so bad it was breaking off in big chunks. Clear needs good quality paint to stick to, and won't stick to bare metal. You could try that clear POR type moisture cured urethane. Imagine trying to remove it if it failed though

I'll take some photos and show what I mean.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[DoubleChevron]

I was searching everywhere through the CX for something I lost today .... Look what I found squished down the back of the seats ..... An aussiefrogs sticker, I haven't had any of these for years. It was pretty bent up but pealed off and applied fine

I spotted this one on fleabay too .... it *had* to go on this car .,..

As for not needing painting ..............................................

See the red ... That's the factory primer, it looks like this panel still wears the paint the car left the factory with. It looks every day of it's 50years of age.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[richo]

Shane, I see only patina and character in those images. A coat of KBS DiamondFinish Clear and you're good to go. No chips will fall off, the KBS will hold all those cracks together.

It's looking good. The sticker is a cracker.
Go hard.

 

[gerrypro]

Hi Shane,-----I would just drive it around as is for a bit ( might be a candidate for Ferals Membership as is ) and sort it out functionally. Then later on remove the panels one at a time and bare metal and refinish them. The great advantage of a 'Mechano' car.
In this way you can easily preserve the alignment of those carefully adjusted panels!
I too like that sticker----------where did you get it!

 

[caparobertsan]

Yea~ I agree with Gerry Pro. You want to dive it even it is not perfect! Mine is not 100% but I just could not wait,,,,ID is a such a good car I love driving it! Every time I drive I forget everything and make me smile( What a nerd!)