Is this the best project car you have ever seen?

[ds21bvh]

Hi Shane,

Those stripping disks contain silicon carbide as an abrasive so the silicon could have come from there. You can buy a product called "silicon off" which can remove it.

The primer Gerry is referring to is a weak acid etch which also may work in prepping the surface correctly.

POR based stuff is not the only thing that lasts - the cantrail on my 71 was done in killrust 15 years ago (before trying POR) and is still perfect.

I hope you get it sussed - you've done a great job so far.

There is something else which I've just used which I think is fabulous.

I took the opportunity to vacumn out the box sections with a 3/4" hose taped to the end of a vac cleaner - then I filled the sills and box sections with engine oil - and when that drained off I then sprayed some Wurth transparent cavity wax. It's a really nice product to use - nice and runny, then slowly hardens to a soft coating - with no real smell. Perfect for D model box sections.

All the best,

Mark...

 

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Shane,

Those stripping disks contain silicon carbide as an abrasive so the silicon could have come from there. You can buy a product called "silicon off" which can remove it.

The primer Gerry is referring to is a weak acid etch which also may work in prepping the surface correctly.

POR based stuff is not the only thing that lasts - the cantrail on my 71 was done in killrust 15 years ago (before trying POR) and is still perfect.

I hope you get it sussed - you've done a great job so far.

There is something else which I've just used which I think is fabulous.

I took the opportunity to vacumn out the box sections with a 3/4" hose taped to the end of a vac cleaner - then I filled the sills and box sections with engine oil - and when that drained off I then sprayed some Wurth transparent cavity wax. It's a really nice product to use - nice and runny, then slowly hardens to a soft coating - with no real smell. Perfect for D model box sections.

All the best,

Mark...

The cavity wax sounds interesting. This one will never be "original" as such, so I don't mind to much what is done. Those moisture cured urethanes are way to shiny, but that doesn't matter (it'll all be covered with insulation). Yep, it was washed down with soapy water, solvent prepsol (that removes silicon) and even treated with the phosphoric acid/zinc stuff. the car has LHM fluid and a power steered rack so "original" it'll never be I just want something structurally sound that I can tinker and have fun with.

I don't go for "perfect". Make a car perfect and some @sshole will deliberately damage it within 2weeks of it being on the road (every car I've ever painted has been damaged within two weeks).

This one will have a shiny black hull, monotone orginal interior (I LOVE the look of the two tone, but I don't have any in usable condition) rubber floor matts, DSpecial cant rail trim, rubber floor matts and DSpecial rubbers around the body. I think it'll end up this colour. Since "mnm" posted images of this car, I've been thinking an ID with the 2nd nose, small hubcaps and no body trim would look fantastic in this colour scheme

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[ds21bvh]

Sounds like a great plan Shane.

It's nigh impossible to find a semi gloss in a true "rust paint". I used the Wurth satin on the dress areas of the chassis (pillars, screen valances and the elephant ears. It's just about perfect in colour - but I'm sure it won't last as long as the killrusted areas. I don't think it's a big deal if whatever you use is glossy or not - the killrust is almost as glossy as POR.

I've never wanted a perfect example either (my experience is the same as yours) - just a really really nice example. I want to be able to drive it without too much fear...!

Keep up the good work - my project is paralleling yours - it's keeping me well and truly motivated...!

All the best,

Mark....

 

[Bounge]

Sounds like a great plan Shane.

It's nigh impossible to find a semi gloss in a true "rust paint". I used the Wurth satin on the dress areas of the chassis (pillars, screen valances and the elephant ears. It's just about perfect in colour - but I'm sure it won't last as long as the killrusted areas. I don't think it's a big deal if whatever you use is glossy or not - the killrust is almost as glossy as POR.

I've never wanted a perfect example either (my experience is the same as yours) - just a really really nice example. I want to be able to drive it without too much fear...!

Keep up the good work - my project is paralleling yours - it's keeping me well and truly motivated...!

All the best,

Mark....

Hi Mark ,

would like to see your pics of your project ?

 

[DoubleChevron]

I've received a few message about this .... The car is still going to be completed soon'ish... I've done a little work on it ... But I've been busy for the last few months There's a new DS here that's kept me busy.

The piccies a few months old, I doubt that singlet still fits now.

I was going to use this bit of RHS and bolt it across the back parcel shelf to attach some child safety seat anchorages too. I think I might see if I can pull the anchorage mounts from a CX parcel shelf though, a much more elegant solution.

I decided the metal was too thin for my likings down the side of the boot. So I chopped the thinned metal away.

It took quite a bit of searchinig to find a bit of boot that wasn't to rusted to cut out of one of the wrecks to use. All of them have rusted out boots... You don't realise until you start stripping the paint/deadener off.

That flanging tool works well.

I just need to finish off the repair with some seem sealer and paint at some point.



I've got the patches to weld in here. it'll only be 20minutes work and the welding is finished, and re-assembly of the hull can start.

 

[DoubleChevron]

I've managed to tinker a little though ....

I ordered in one of those tecnosir sphere regassers .... You know it works really well. I finally regassed my first sphere a few nights ago with it using there valves (I fitted the valves to the rear of my CX so I don't have to pull the spheres to check them).

http://www.tecnosirstore.com/

Though it works really well, remember you'll need to purchase a bottle adapter for the local nitrogen bottles.

Even though I like the tecnosir regasser, it's a very simple easy to use, elegant answer to regassing spheres.... Me I HATE spending $$$ on something like valves for every sphere that needs a squirt of gas.... So I started tinkering as I always do.....

This seems to work really well, due to the fact I had the tecnosir gasser, it only cost about $20 to build this. For the last couple of months I've had the gasser here, I didn't use any of the tecnosir valves... we have some scrap metal, a jockey wheel thread and a brake accumulator base here .... junk from around the yard

other than the one you can see here screwed into the gassing head.

about the only issue I've had is the gauge isn't very accurate, sticking 83bar into the sphere fills a CX front to 75bar.

I painted up some LHM spheres for the old ID19 .... there fun to strip those spheres being round

Everyone on here helped me work out a set of valves for the ID19.

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101810

While I was tinkering with spheres, I stripped/painted and gassed up a set for my fathers DS. No, none of these shiny pretty looking spheres are rebuilt. Though our friend and forum sponsor down in Tassie did rebuild a couple for me :banana:

They'll likely end up under the back of the ID19.

I had to take a piccie of this .......... Do you like my 5minute attempt at blue circles for the front spheres .....:roflmao: :roflmao: Just try masking a sphere and see how you go :crazy: Yeah look how filthy all those shiny cleaned bits are I re-assembled, why didn't I throw a cover over the car a few months back

 

[gerrypro]

I had to take a piccie of this .......... Do you like my 5minute attempt at blue circles for the front spheres .....:roflmao: :roflmao: Just try masking a sphere and see how you go :crazy: Yeah look how filthy all those shiny cleaned bits are I re-assembled, why didn't I throw a cover over the car a few months back

Hi Shane ----Very Impressive------- For the blue circles, you could have slowly spun them in your lathe and just touched the blue paint brush up to the sphere. They would have come out better than the factory job that way!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Bruce Llewellyn]

Hi Shane ----Very Impressive------- For the blue circles, you could have slowly spun them in your lathe and just touched the blue paint brush up to the sphere. They would have come out better than the factory job that way!!!!!!!!!!

That's called the 'now they tell us' law.

 

[DoubleChevron]

I've managed to tinker a little over the last couple of days ....

I'm determined to seal up the 856 factory punched/cut holes in the firewall and make this car as fume free as possible (given the motor has no crankcase ventilation). There is probably 4layers of insulation around the engine hump inside the car, and two under the bonnet. Two layers on the front floors and two under the seats. It's all taped together with aluminium tape. It's hopefully air tight. No doubt she'll be a lot quieter and there is will bugger all heat transfer compared to a normal ID19.

I intend to re-use as much as the original trim as possible. Anywhere that horse hair moisture wicking stuff was used, I've put the insulation. I wan't it to look like a poverty pack ID19 was. Anywhere that insulation is visible once re-assembled I'll probably put some black vinyl over to hide

This "fell off" an XM ... I'm going to try and get the boot as air tight as possible. I think the best way to go about this will be to glue some uprights into the existing rubber holders and push the seal ontop. By using something like sikaflex to retain the metal uprights, this should keep out any moisture and prevent rusting

this is original 50year old ID19 seats. They were bought up from Tassie for this car Dunno how on earth Richo found them. Doesn't anyone have any suggestions on cleaning 50year old vinyl without destroying it I've been using sards wonder soap and a gentle brush to clean them. This has taken a good couple of hours to get this far. I wonder if there's an easier way to clean them.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[JohnW]

Sard Wonder Soap and elbow grease it what it takes I suspect!

Can you remind me what that silver insulating material is please?

Great job there - both the new offshoot and the D!!

Cheers

 

[richo]

Lobocrud? is the name of the seller of the insulation from memory.


CT18 Truck wash will work a treat. Just be certain to rinse it all well.

Hope this helps.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Yeah this is the insulation here

http://www.lobucrod.com/

truck wash? I'll take a look. I'd rather them stained if damage is a possibility

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[DoubleChevron]

It's taken several attempts to loosely screw the dash together ..... The plastic bits are the worry. It's not that there frail, they don't twist and bend .............. There more like ice, they'll shatter if you even blink near them. I managed to get it all screwed together loosely (not even finger tight) ...... then scratched the glovebox lid when I screwed it on ..... it sat wwaaaayyyyy too low. I put two washers under each hinge to lift it higher (figuring there must be spacers/shims I've missed) .... Yes I'm aware everything is really filthy dirty ... I'm not game to even try and wipe those plastic vents until there fitted to the car (it's easy to slip and drop one .... I knocked one these vents out of the car when I was pulling it apart, and it shattered into about 20 pieces These pieces of plastic dash are the only usable ones I have .... there is no spares

I have piccies though ......... from earlier on in the thread. Look at that ... glovebox lid fits ... hmmmm

Look at that, there's a piccie of the hinges too. No spacers, that saves turning the shed upside down. they must just bend sh!t out of the hinges to get everything to fit together at the factory (the dash frame is a different unbutchered frame without a radio hole).

I wonder if I'll get the dash back together without smashing any plastic. I'll buy a tin of plastic dye and coat the instrument surround plastic too. it's gone a streaky white (at least it's intact ... which is better than any other I have).

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Look at that ....

Everything is going to fit together .... and the definitely "wrong" shiny insulation will be completely hidden again. It looks like I'll be able to re-use the original trim everywhere except the outer sill trims and door trims (hmm... I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that one yet. I guess I'll have to build newies. The problem is they'll look new, and last time I tried that, they didn't work out. Door slamming forces would knock them off). This is exactly the look I wanted "aged" but not destroyed 50year old looking interior with rubber mats, big steering wheel etc... just like an aussie ID should have.

It doesn't look right above as nothing is screwed or glued together. That's why the dash looks all wonky and out of shape, and none of the trim is sitting right. I"ll need the trim the hump area of the the rubber mat back by about 15mm I'd say to clear the extra depth added by the multiple layers of insulation.

 

[smiffy1071]

It's looking great Shane, I can't wait to have a ride in it!!

 

[DoubleChevron]

I have used the VHT plastic dye before.

The plastic is very aged and almost white in places. I thought I'd try to recolour it (worst case, it falls off and will be back to what it is now).

The dye wasn't as nice to use this time as before. The spray nozzle on the tin is a different design that makes it really difficult to spray the dye on lightly enough. It tends to hose it on, not spray at all nicely And I dropped the steeering column top when it was still wet Oh well, they should look quite good when they are dry. They'll lose a lot of that gloss and take on a slightly satin look.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[Bruce Llewellyn]

Hi Shane,

Some plastics of that era use Lanolin as a plasticiser- seat fabrics etc. Plastic parts from later Ds I have did responded well to Lanotec spray, allowed to soak in and the goo wiped off (won't work now you're painted it) I've even managed to re-soften pug 504 dash tops using it, but it takes time. (months) Also works to reverse shrinkage a little on CX door trims.

I'm not sure what the end vents on the early dash are, I suspect they may be acrylic (perspex) in which case warming them up will reduce the tendency to shatter. See instructions for drilling acrylic (Shinkolite etc) and try it on a broken one.

Don't chuck out the broken ones, because perspex cement (chloroform) can do very good repairs on acrylic. Thinners might work also, but you'll need to test. PVC solvent cement (if you can get it in clear) works on other hard plastics (like the bits inside Benz headlights, SAAB and Peugeot 504 grilles etc)

It is worth, while the bits you have are not broken, making a set of jigs out of MDF etc. so if you do break them they can be glued accurately.

I'm planning to cheat and fabricate aluminium ones for mine...

Keep plugging and you'll have a car again!

Bruce,

 

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Bruce,

Fixing them might be a possibily with something like plastex. Hopefully someone will remake them at some point. There really isn't any bringing the ID bits back with anything IMO. The dash top is vinyl straight onto the metal panel from what I can tell. You can see rust bubbles coming up through the dash top in most of them. The best bet would be to peal the stuffed vinyl off, strip, prep and paint the dash top (fixing any rust bubbles and bogging it back flat) then recoving it with a strip of vinyl.

See how white/washed out the instrument surround is...

After being re-dyed.

The dye is a nice satin finish.... You just need to make sure no idiot puts shiny shit on it ..... Nothing looks worse than plastic drowned in shiny crap

I'm also going to use the door sealing strips from a late DSpecial. Note: there made of stainless so aren't rusty (shame about the spherical shaped lumps of rust that were once screws that retained them though ). You need to get behind them and chisel through the self tapper. I've found the self tappers used on these proper citroens incredibly difficult to drill. Even using brand new sutton viper drill bits (those things are so sharp you can slash yourself pulling htem from the packet).

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[gerrypro]

Shane, that dash looks terrific. Nice and fresh!

 

[forumnoreason]

Thats's come up pretty bloody good! Sweed!