Has anyone installed EFI on an Alpine a110

bazzamac said:
I assume that the intake to that pump does need to come from the bottom of the tank. At present, the fuel is down from the top with the Facet pump. Might have to insert an exit from the bottom of the plastic tank. All the injected tanks I have seen like the Alpine GTA and R5T2 have the fuel drawn from the bottom of the petrol tank.
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I don't know that I have the exact same Pierburg pump as the one I linked, but looks like the E1F one pictured, but expect many do. I admit to having a fabricated aluminium tank in the front of my 4CV that indeed does take the pump feed from the bottom and so is unaffected by lifting ability. Alex has shown some good info and perhaps first up need to find out which pump you received. I am sorry for steering you in the wrong direction, pump wise, and was unaware the A110 tank was not similar in design to one fitted to the GTA that takes the fuel feed from the bottom, although it makes sense now given most A110s are carbed.
 
Aln said:
If your Facet lift pump is of the diaphragm type, in this case with a return line from your swirl pot it will hammer itself to death, because normally it would just feed carbs that have a float bowl controlled by a needle valve, so initially it will do lots of strokes until the float bowl is full and then back off to only pulse every second or so to keep the float chamber filled whilst the engine is running. But with excess fuel just going back to the tank it will wear out quickly. I have seen this failure twice. Much better to use a Pierburg low pressure roller style pump.
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Aln, have you had any experiences with these Goss fuel pumps?
I can't find any specs on whether they can dry lift

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COL said:
Can you post some pics of this wonderful work please Barry.
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Hi Col

Here's some photos. have to give credit to the help from Rob Sealey for crank pulley and Ray Watson for cam pulley and advice on mounting the sensors on both. Still have to test the sensors yet.

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What thickness is the crank toothed wheel? I had been told that it should be made from 6mm material as with a narrower wheel, teeth can be "missed" at high rpm. I run a 6mm thick wheel on my old BMW for this reason, and OK to 9000 rpm. This may just be a good story about the thickness, but made sense as there was more magnetic material to be "seen". What you have got looks good as an engineering solution for your cam and crank triggers. Why are there two "missing" teeth on the cam trigger. I thought you would only want one to sort sequential injection.

On QLD suburban trains where weight isn't a problem and rpms are low, using Hall Effect pick ups, the toothed wheels are 12mm wide.
 
Hi Alan
Crank teeth thickness is 4mm. Spoke to geckoeng and he says it is sufficient based on Franz's experience in NZ. Will see what they test at when I rotate the engine and put a voltmeter on both crank and cam sensors. Geckoeng provided the pulley with the toothed inside out wheel and the two tooth gaps take account of the different speed rotation of the cam vis a vis the crank.
 
Normally you would only want one signal on each cam rotation so that TDC on No. 1 compression can be ascertained for sequential injection. The computer is then told how many degrees before TDC the gap occurs and it all gets worked out from there.
 
Been a while since I posted progress but now the fuel lines, pumps filters etc are all set up ready to go but with the normal 45mm Webers still in place. Real challenge was to find available space which could be obtained in the left hand rear quarter panel and space below the carbs. Here are some photos - surge tank and associated fuel lines in the left rear quarter, fuel pressure regulator attached to the cross member, and a 4mm thick aluminium panel attached to the bodywork to hold the 100 micron filter and Raceworks high pressure fuel pump. Used Aeroflow fittings on teflon fuel lines and some braided hose to the carbs. Up front is the Pierburg low pressure fuel pump and a return line. Next steps are the tricky bits - hooking up the Haltech ECU and associated wiring and installing the Jenvey Heritage carbs. Taking a while as I am not as young as I used to be - finding it difficult at my age and back issues to crawl in, under and over cars even small ones like the A110.

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More progress. Jenvey Heritage carbs installed with cold air box. Hooked up nicely with my existing accelerator cable fitting. Still to instal wiring to sensors and ECU. The Jenveys looked so good out of the box I was thinking about exhibiting them on the mantlepiece but think the better half might have objected.

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Project a bit slow lately as I had to deal with some family issues. But progress is being made. Installed Toyota Yaris coils for direct ignition and removed existing coil and distributor. Avoided taping into the expensive rocker cover like Brettr so used some aluminium brackets to attach to the coils which sit proud of the rocker cover and look unobtrusive. Photos are too large to post according to aussiefrogs. Makes the engine bay look a lot neater. May be the neatest for an A110??? Next step is the wiring and trying to make sense of Haltech's software.
 
Running into some problems. Main one is I downloaded the Haltech software to program the ECU onto a Windows laptop and it is not acting the way it should. Perhaps I need to reload and talk to Haltech. They are not the greatest communicators - sent an email with questions on 8 February and still waiting for answers.
 
bazzamac said:
Running into some problems. Main one is I downloaded the Haltech software to program the ECU onto a Windows laptop and it is not acting the way it should. Perhaps I need to reload and talk to Haltech. They are not the greatest communicators - sent an email with questions on 8 February and still waiting for answers.
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They seem to get back to the boys at Mighty Car Mods very quickly. Maybe you don't have enough subscribers to your YouTube channel?
 
bazzamac said:
Running into some problems. Main one is I downloaded the Haltech software to program the ECU onto a Windows laptop and it is not acting the way it should. Perhaps I need to reload and talk to Haltech. They are not the greatest communicators - sent an email with questions on 8 February and still waiting for answers.
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What is the program doing or not doing Barry??
 
Hi Col

Reloaded the Heltech software and now ready to connect to the ECU. but first have to go thru the various tutorials on the Haltech elite 750 series to see what data I need to input - eg engine capacity, no of cylinders, cam profile etc etc.

In the meantime, tested with battery light all of the wiring on the Haltech basic loom. Connectivity on all wires OK but found some were missing eg the wiring diagram says there are 6 wires for injectors but two are missing; it says there are 6 wires for ignition but one is missing. No big issue as will only but using 4 of each so excess wires will be pinned out. more worrying tho is wiring for air temp and throttle position sensor seem to be missing. Will be taking up with Haltech in Sydney. Also not sure about wiring for crank and cam sensors. Very frustrating as these need to be sorted before installing in the car.
 
bazzamac said:
Hi Col

Reloaded the Heltech software and now ready to connect to the ECU. but first have to go thru the various tutorials on the Haltech elite 750 series to see what data I need to input - eg engine capacity, no of cylinders, cam profile etc etc.

In the meantime, tested with battery light all of the wiring on the Haltech basic loom. Connectivity on all wires OK but found some were missing eg the wiring diagram says there are 6 wires for injectors but two are missing; it says there are 6 wires for ignition but one is missing. No big issue as will only but using 4 of each so excess wires will be pinned out. more worrying tho is wiring for air temp and throttle position sensor seem to be missing. Will be taking up with Haltech in Sydney. Also not sure about wiring for crank and cam sensors. Very frustrating as these need to be sorted before installing in the car.
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That is very frustrating Barry, I have just looked on the Haltech website at the wiring diagrams and they a very comprehensive. I also seen the prices of the wiring looms. Sounds like they have given you an incomplete loom or the wrong loom for your needs. Anyway keep us posted, no doubt you will get it sorted in good time.
 
Currently working through the wiring loom. If you buy one, get the premium version which has all the wires labelled plus a fuse /relay box. The one I got is the basic loom and subsequently bought the relay/fuse box which of course did not have fuses and relays so had to buy them separately. When working through the basic loom be careful to check connectivity and that the colour of the wires match the Haltech wiring diagram. In my case, connectivity was fine but found the coloured wiring was not in the right places to match the wiring diagram so a bit of fiddling had to be done to get them right. Anyway, am getting there. The upside with having my 2018 Alpine in Melbourne for repair (still waiting for parts from France) is that I have plenty of room in my garage to work on the 1969 A110. Waiting on genuine Toyota Yaris ignition coils to arrive (3 -4 weeks from Japan) and able to get a discount at saving of around $400 as one of my daughters works for Toyota in Canberra. Decided on the genuine coils as the ones off eBay are Chinese knockoffs and I don't want to take the risk with them given it is hard to insert and remove them in the Alpine because of limited headroom in the engine bay.
 
bazzamac said:
Currently working through the wiring loom. If you buy one, get the premium version which has all the wires labelled plus a fuse /relay box. The one I got is the basic loom and subsequently bought the relay/fuse box which of course did not have fuses and relays so had to buy them separately. When working through the basic loom be careful to check connectivity and that the colour of the wires match the Haltech wiring diagram. In my case, connectivity was fine but found the coloured wiring was not in the right places to match the wiring diagram so a bit of fiddling had to be done to get them right. Anyway, am getting there. The upside with having my 2018 Alpine in Melbourne for repair (still waiting for parts from France) is that I have plenty of room in my garage to work on the 1969 A110. Waiting on genuine Toyota Yaris ignition coils to arrive (3 -4 weeks from Japan) and able to get a discount at saving of around $400 as one of my daughters works for Toyota in Canberra. Decided on the genuine coils as the ones off eBay are Chinese knockoffs and I don't want to take the risk with them given it is hard to insert and remove them in the Alpine because of limited headroom in the engine bay.
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You will get there Barry, at least with these problems you will know how it all goes together. Will be inteeresting how much power the car makes on fuel injection compared to the Webers
 
Hi Col

I would not expect much more power - aim is to have reliable starts, better fuel economy and lower emissions. Will be able to see how much power once it goes to the dyno and gets programmed. Hopefully in a few weeks after the genuine Toyota coils arrive.
 
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Having spent a lot of time at the dyno comparing Webers MFI and Haltech EFI when Haltech sponsored my race car during their early development phase, torque and throttle response was far better, not much gain in horsepower unless you start playing with air boxes, ram tube shape, length, diameter, angle etc with a program to suit. Not to mention camshaft specs. EFI opens up a whole new world of tuning options.
 
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