Why would I want to remove that to change the top mount ?
C2 struts
- Thread starter DoubleChevron
- Start date
Most people find the video method easier with McPherson strut suspensions, used on most light cars. Very small Cits. C2, C3, DS3, use the split hub strut holder. Larger cars, like the C4, use bolts. The C5 X7 is the odd one out as it has a form of double wishbone suspension.
If you can compress the spring with the hub still on to get the top mount off, that's OK.
If you can compress the spring with the hub still on to get the top mount off, that's OK.
I'm guessing its faster. The caliper and rotor bolts are staring you in the face, so I just whipped them off and dropped the lot out. I'll see if the spring compressor I have here works tonight maybe. Someone was selling the vevor one locally on facebook marketplace..... so I grabbed it.
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He said it didn't work for him as his car had the spring that taper down at the ends.
Stuff is so easy when you have the tool. 10years ago this would have been mission impossible. anyway.
that vevo spring compressor is much, much beafier than it appears in pictures. I wasn't really concerned even though it feels like handling a hand grenade.
and it looks bloody fine to me .... no sign of perishing.
I pried the bearing out. its "as new" and nicely greased. The droplink felt very tight, there was still quite a bit of stiction in it. Just like I thought prior to pulling it apart, it all feels "as new" and tight as a drum.
So I put it back together with new parts ..... and damn it, the sound has completely gone and its all good now. How is this possible ?
Oh .... I also have to drain and refill the gearbox again. Its the only way to check the level. I could have swore blind I didn't displace that
seeya
Shane l.
that vevo spring compressor is much, much beafier than it appears in pictures. I wasn't really concerned even though it feels like handling a hand grenade.
and it looks bloody fine to me .... no sign of perishing.
I pried the bearing out. its "as new" and nicely greased. The droplink felt very tight, there was still quite a bit of stiction in it. Just like I thought prior to pulling it apart, it all feels "as new" and tight as a drum.
So I put it back together with new parts ..... and damn it, the sound has completely gone and its all good now. How is this possible ?
Oh .... I also have to drain and refill the gearbox again. Its the only way to check the level. I could have swore blind I didn't displace that
seeya
Shane l.
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I have a used DS3 (similar) top bearing here, and it looks good. But when you force it side to side there is movement. It was replaced because on the road it knocked loudly. The new one fixed the noise. Now it's starting to get noisy on the other side, sigh.
Dud drop links always look good too.
Line that top cap up right. It affects alignment.
Dud drop links always look good too.
Line that top cap up right. It affects alignment.
Hmm your C2 is one of the "rare" 2005 models...is it not? This model (and the C3's) were a "hybrid". They had some components of the "all-CAN" Mk2's. Including the clear turn signal repeaters on the front fender. Different electrical wiring harness. And offset pins on the shock mount. But the electronics still ran the CAN-VAN system. I.E. the cute,bubble type dash and instrumentation. LOL. The wheel rims where a mish-mash/lucky dip though.
I hope the new shock mount had the locating pin off set (like the old one)?
I hope the new shock mount had the locating pin off set (like the old one)?
No, it doesn't, its still bonded. What is strange is this is the drivers side .... so is the side that drives along the smooth section of the road!
yes its all setup right. I ordered the parts by VIN. The new mount had an offset pin (AEI in melbroune has been really good). It all went back together very easilly. I'm used to Citroen suspension components fighting me to grim death .... before finally relenting after spending hours/days screaming abuse at them
how did you move it side to side to find the slop? Maybe a prybar up into the top of the spring after removing the wheel lining? I was so confused as everything was tight as a drum
Spring pressure makes it unlikely you'll find movement while the load is on the strut, even when you can hear the knock while driving. You have dismantled the bearing, but mine moved by hand when removed.
Hi, I know this is an old thread but I need to change top strut bearings(suspension mounts). Have parts but am concerned about locating pins? I have 2006 C2 VTS and the new parts seem to have pins in different position. So are the Bushings/bearings top mount symmetical for both sides or is their specific parts for LHS and RHS? Am getting different info depending on source. The parts diagram refers to before and after OPR 10156. How do we determine the OPR Is it the 5 digit number as shown on sticker in door well? Can't upload photo but it reads 20151does that sound right? We're talking part no 3 on list. The part ordered was found by supplier via rego number but states "07/06-12/08 CITROËN C2 (JM_) 1.6 VTS" but have just checked and my build date is 05/06. Is this where the problem lies? When searching the two different parts looked totally different so I thought what I was getting was correct.For reference I got KYB KSM 1931,and need it for RHS drivers side front. And all suppliers recommended this part as well as KYB's own website. Lastly I am based in Victoria so who is preferred supplier/s in Melbourne or Gippsland. Thank you.
The Youtube posted at the beginning of this thread is as good a how-to as any. If you are doing this yourself read the discussion on spring compressors - these things can kill.
The video shows a puller to separate the hub, but it probably won't be needed. Note the socket type screwdriver blade to spread the hub grip. A suitable tool is essential. The top cap has alignment markers.
Never order parts by rego. People keep old plates or move them to other cars, so that date is meaningless.
The video shows a puller to separate the hub, but it probably won't be needed. Note the socket type screwdriver blade to spread the hub grip. A suitable tool is essential. The top cap has alignment markers.
Never order parts by rego. People keep old plates or move them to other cars, so that date is meaningless.
Could you elaborate further on this please. Yes I have been through this thread. My concern is the different positioning of the locating pins on the shock absorber bracket. For the record my OPR appears to be 10776, so part no 5038F5.When ordering the site gave me the option of make,with Citroen not being an option,or rego. VIN was not an option. And of course no contact number to discuss. Also it appears some bolt heads are Torx and some other type of splined heads.Do these have a technical name? Thank you.
Hmmmmm.So what is he doing with the punch. Pins are flattened on both sides to retain.Are you suggesting to move pins? Does the indent at pin location relevant does it assist in seating correctly? I have a so called manual on the suspension which offers no illumination at all. Sorry if i'm not on the same page as you. It's been doing my head in along with other things today. Maybe I need a Bex and a lie down. Thank you.
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also sorry about picture but upload limit seems quite small so quality has suffered.
No, that punch has nothing to do with anything. Using it as a pointer? I dunno.
The BEARINGS are all the same. And they are a separate piece to the mount. The mounts don't come with a bearing.
The SHOCK MOUNTS are virtually identical EXCEPT for the position of the locating pin. I have absolutely no idea why they changed the position of the locating pin. BUT if you use the wrong mount it will sit on a wonky angle and not fit correctly in the wheel arch cup. As you can see they are oval in shape and so is the mounting cup in the top of the wheel arch. So they (should) only fit one way.
HOWEVER I have seen posts of the wrong mounts being fitted and not functioning correctly (I wonder why).
If your car was built BEFORE 2005 the pin is "inline", that is; the mount on the RIGHT of that picture (above).
If your car was built AFTER 2005 the pin is "offset", the mount on the LEFT of the picture.
If your car was built IN 2005 you need to ascertain which mount is the correct one. 2005 was the "change over".
Of course you could just pop the bonnet and have a look! If you stand at the fender and look at the retaining nut and cup, the hole and locating pin sticking through the wheel arch, will either be at the "6 o'clock" or "5 o'clock" position.
The left and right hand mounts are the same. There is NO left hand or right hand versions...same.
Bolts/studs; Torx require a "star" like tool. "Allen key" require a hexagonal tool. E.G. the center of the shock shaft is Allen key. The droplink ball joint shaft centers require Torx.
Warning , danger! Pay close attention to how the mounting hardware comes off the top of the shock absorber! Only remove items 5, 2, 70, 3, and 9 (from the diagram above). 4 sits on top of the spring and does not need to be removed. Try not to disturb the location of the spring on the shock or the rest cup (4) on the spring. Those items are seated a specific way.
Item 6 is SUPER CRITICAL! Avoid removing it!!! It stops the shock shaft from damaging your bonnet!!! Only remove (swap) it if you are changing the shock absorber!
The BEARINGS are all the same. And they are a separate piece to the mount. The mounts don't come with a bearing.
The SHOCK MOUNTS are virtually identical EXCEPT for the position of the locating pin. I have absolutely no idea why they changed the position of the locating pin. BUT if you use the wrong mount it will sit on a wonky angle and not fit correctly in the wheel arch cup. As you can see they are oval in shape and so is the mounting cup in the top of the wheel arch. So they (should) only fit one way.
HOWEVER I have seen posts of the wrong mounts being fitted and not functioning correctly (I wonder why).
If your car was built BEFORE 2005 the pin is "inline", that is; the mount on the RIGHT of that picture (above).
If your car was built AFTER 2005 the pin is "offset", the mount on the LEFT of the picture.
If your car was built IN 2005 you need to ascertain which mount is the correct one. 2005 was the "change over".
Of course you could just pop the bonnet and have a look! If you stand at the fender and look at the retaining nut and cup, the hole and locating pin sticking through the wheel arch, will either be at the "6 o'clock" or "5 o'clock" position.
The left and right hand mounts are the same. There is NO left hand or right hand versions...same.
Bolts/studs; Torx require a "star" like tool. "Allen key" require a hexagonal tool. E.G. the center of the shock shaft is Allen key. The droplink ball joint shaft centers require Torx.
Warning , danger! Pay close attention to how the mounting hardware comes off the top of the shock absorber! Only remove items 5, 2, 70, 3, and 9 (from the diagram above). 4 sits on top of the spring and does not need to be removed. Try not to disturb the location of the spring on the shock or the rest cup (4) on the spring. Those items are seated a specific way.
Item 6 is SUPER CRITICAL! Avoid removing it!!! It stops the shock shaft from damaging your bonnet!!! Only remove (swap) it if you are changing the shock absorber!
KYB KSM 1931 looks like the correct mount for a 2006 C2. I see it's a kit and comes with the bearing. You will need to reuse the mounting nut, item 5, by the looks.
You said "I have 2006 C2 VTS and the new parts seem to have pins in different position" to what? The part already installed on the car? The correct mount should have the pin offset, as I said. In that case which is wrong? The parts previously installed or the parts you obtained?
The mounts seem to last 100-150 thousand Km. How many K's has your C2 done? If the car has done more than 200,000 could the mount have been replaced before?
You said "I have 2006 C2 VTS and the new parts seem to have pins in different position" to what? The part already installed on the car? The correct mount should have the pin offset, as I said. In that case which is wrong? The parts previously installed or the parts you obtained?
The mounts seem to last 100-150 thousand Km. How many K's has your C2 done? If the car has done more than 200,000 could the mount have been replaced before?
Thank you Mount on right is the one removed.From your explanation it would appear that wrong mount was fitted at some stage. re Torx. The tool used at 2:27 is not a Torx,was just wondering if they are known as something beside a star drive.
Again Thank you very much, Without using forums the internet is a bit useless. Perhaps the Bex helped. Have a good day. Viva la France.
Again Thank you very much, Without using forums the internet is a bit useless. Perhaps the Bex helped. Have a good day. Viva la France.