Sump removal (205)
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  1. #1
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    Default Sump removal (205)

    I re-sealed the sump on my 205 as it was leaking and needed to pass roadworthy,

    Using blue RTV silicone, i applied the silicone to the block to spacer interface and also spacer to sump,

    I thought i did everything right and just managed to scrape through roadworthy, now however it is leaking (probably more than prior to removing) so it needs to come off again! I think some of the silicone must have scraped off while putting the sump on so maybe that is why its leaking again.

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    Now the problem is, RTV sealant does a pretty good job at sticking, and i am having a lot of trouble getting it off..

    Anyone have any tips? I guess someone is also going to tell me not to use RTV and use something else...open to suggestions for when the time comes for refitting!

  2. #2
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    How are you for blow-by? That may be one of your contributing elements to leakage.

    Also thorough prep using something like brake cleaner is essential; you need to bring the oil up from pores in the surfaces or it will come up with heat and work like a release agent. I have a pump sprayer with Wurth brake cleaner fluid beside me for all these type of jobs.

    Honouring the RTV package's suggested routine of not fully torquing until it's tacking off, is also a helpful stage.

    For stripping old sealant, one proprietary (non-automotive) product uses sulfuric acid! I'd be using a stripper first, whether methylene chloride based or citrus oil.

    Try not to inhale more of any substance than necessary; lung damage can take years to reveal its extent.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
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    A razor blade works fine for me

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Andrew Ch's Avatar
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    I use Threebond 1211 for any engine assembly of oily bits after PeterT, AdrianW and others recommended it. It's an excellent product in all areas.

  5. #5
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    Not sure whether i am getting any blow-by, whats the best way to check?

    Ended up successfully getting the sump off.. Kerosene okay for surface prep? Or something a bit harsher as addo suggests?

    Will go for threebond, i have heard good things about the stuff too and if it saves me from having to do it again, i am all for it!

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Addo, you mention pores. These mating faces are machined, I would expect minimal pore problems if any.

    That said, I've always used Threebond upon recommendation of various drag racing engine builders who swear by it, even in metho engines. Never had any problems with it and I can't say I was too anal at prepping surfaces (usually beadblasted, decked and that's it).

    To check for blow by disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose and see if you have pulsating smoke coming out with the engine at idle. If you want to be more thorough, you can do a compression test, record results, then put a spoon of oil in each cylinder and repeat. Test results will show the difference, and if it is significant, you've got blow by. What Addo is suggesting is that there might be a buildup of pressure in your crankcase which eventually blows out the sealant. I have seen BMW engines that blow their main rear seal that way.

    If you want to avoid these problems you can use a thin cork gasket with a number of tiny spacers evenly distributed around the joint (these can be little collars around the bolts) so you can not squeeze the bejesus out of the gasket when you do the bolts up. Use a smear of some sealing compound on both gasket faces for adhesion.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 8th August 2012 at 01:58 PM.
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  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! chez00's Avatar
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    threebond 1211 for the win. Be patient getting the sump off, you don't want screw driver pry marks along your nicely machined sump rail. sometimes a *light* tap with a rubber mallet can help.

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