Pulling dents from sill?
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  1. #1
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    mistareno's Avatar
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    Default Pulling dents from sill?

    I was going to have a crack at pulling out a dent in the sill of the Fuego that has been annoying me since I bought it.

    The sill is covered in a rubberized coating which does hide it a bit but I'd still like to do a semi decent job, if just to reduce the time a panel beater has to spend getting it 100% when I eventually manage to sell the kids and get the car painted.

    The dent is quite long but not super deep and is directly below the door.

    It appears as though it has scraped a high gutter or similar and the actual scratch has been covered over with black goo.

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    I was planning on using a slide hammer to slightly 'over pull' the dent and then just get it as smooth as possible using a hammer and dolly.

    I don't want to add bog that will just have to remove again so if it comes up even 80% I will just re coat in underseal and leave it for the panel beater down the track.

    Does anyone have any other tips or tricks for pulling out dents in inaccessible panels?

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    unfortunately all of the ppl i know who would do this kinda work have sed bog it, bog isnt my style either, slide hammer sounds good in theory, see how u go i guess, good luck, maybe a pic or 2?
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  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! r8waynerenault's Avatar
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    Default Sill repair

    Quote Originally Posted by mistareno View Post
    I was going to have a crack at pulling out a dent in the sill of the Fuego that has been annoying me since I bought it.

    The sill is covered in a rubberized coating which does hide it a bit but I'd still like to do a semi decent job, if just to reduce the time a panel beater has to spend getting it 100% when I eventually manage to sell the kids and get the car painted.

    The dent is quite long but not super deep and is directly below the door.

    It appears as though it has scraped a high gutter or similar and the actual scratch has been covered over with black goo.

    I was planning on using a slide hammer to slightly 'over pull' the dent and then just get it as smooth as possible using a hammer and dolly.

    I don't want to add bog that will just have to remove again so if it comes up even 80% I will just re coat in underseal and leave it for the panel beater down the track.

    Does anyone have any other tips or tricks for pulling out dents in inaccessible panels?
    Sill repair
    If you really want to get the dent out before just bog, the slide hammer is correct but I would also use the oxy to heat the panel. Do not go too hard with the heat but it hepls with softening the metal as you use the hammer. No matter what you do you will have to skim over with filler as the metal will now be stretched and will not go back as it was
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  4. #4
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by r8waynerenault View Post
    Sill repair
    If you really want to get the dent out before just bog, the slide hammer is correct but I would also use the oxy to heat the panel. Do not go too hard with the heat but it hepls with softening the metal as you use the hammer. No matter what you do you will have to skim over with filler as the metal will now be stretched and will not go back as it was
    Wayne
    You only need to use filler if your metal working skills are not up to scratch. I dont pretend to have those skills myself, but I know a few non bog panel beaters and I cringe when I watch them lay into a panel.
    Same goes for watching musical instrument repairers restore a mangled horn. You cant use bog under silver/gold plating.


    If I'm correct in suspecting you want this car to be perfect, I'd suggest cleaning the panel back to bare metal yourself possibly remove the seat, belts and carpet from the area then handing the job on to an old school metal worker to beat out the damage. Then I'd be taking to a spray painter to get the ripple pattern on the sill and front rear panels replicated to OE appearance before re painting it yourself to match the bumpers.



    Jo
    Last edited by jo proffi; 11th July 2011 at 01:46 PM.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by r8waynerenault View Post
    Sill repair
    If you really want to get the dent out before just bog, the slide hammer is correct but I would also use the oxy to heat the panel. Do not go too hard with the heat but it hepls with softening the metal as you use the hammer. No matter what you do you will have to skim over with filler as the metal will now be stretched and will not go back as it was
    Wayne
    I wouldn't go near the panel with heat as a general rule. Heat is generally only used of shrinking and needs a dolly on the bottom and a slapper on the top. This is impossible.

    My advice is to bog the panel yourself or pass the work to a professional if you can't live with the concept of having bog in the sill.

    It's so easy to turn a small repair into a major project with the oxy, slide hammers and weld on studs. Not to mention the major disassembly to avoid burning the carpet and rest of the paintwork.

    I would carefully clean a small around the dent area to bare metal, bog it and repaint as required.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post


    I would carefully clean a small around the dent area to bare metal, bog it and repaint as required.
    I dont believe that working the small area around the dent will suffice, as the pattern in the under body sealer would not match when you are done.
    I would not even waste my time trying to match it.

    You sort of have to do the entire side of the car if you dont want it to show.

    This is my primary issue with random texture paint, be it automotive or domestic interior house paints.


    Jo

  7. #7
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    Icon7 Use a combination of techniques./

    Richard

    If you can clean and prep the area, there is a glue system that is used in conjunction with lever system to lift out dents. I would caution that if the metal is deeply creased, then it will be stretched in that area. You might get it back to an approximation of where it should be, and then a light application of bog and finish should do the job. Worst thing is to raise the area above the level it should be as you will then have to carefully reduce the surface by denting.

    Where you can get behind the panel with a dolly, you can reduce a high area with oxy heat and hammer work in conjunction with a panel beaters dolly.

    I have seen some good lead repairs done where such dents have been pulled with a dent puller and the dent pullers holes help retain the leading, You wont find many panel beaters who even "think" lead repairs these days. I did a few years ago on a Ford Prefect to repair panels already leaded, but most would use bog these days.

    Good quality bog built up in well dried layers reduces cracking under paint if done properly, thick bog can crack and spall if done badly. I am sure that there must be some good quality bog and advances in techniques of application these days that should do a credible long term fix for you.

    Ken.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenfuego View Post
    .....
    Good quality bog built up in well dried layers reduces cracking under paint if done properly, thick bog can crack and spall if done badly. I am sure that there must be some good quality bog and advances in techniques of application these days that should do a credible long term fix for you.

    Ken.
    Yep Ken,

    For thick application of bog install a few self tappers to hold in place. Commonly used by pit crews after practice before race days to make the vehicle repairs presentable to scruitineers.

    Works a treat

    cheers


    Rob

  9. #9
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    They use "rivet guns" these days to pull these sorts of dent ... cheap in the US .... bloody expensive out here ( remember there 110volts so you can't import). You basically "spot weld" the rivet to the metal, then a slide hammer acts against the rivet.

    You have your "old style" slide hammer where you drill a hole, screw the hammer in and pull that way (I think my grandfather still has one of these). If you have a MIG welder, I'd be tempted to weld a few nails to it and pull on them with a pair of vice grips.

    The "glue/slide hammer" system Ken speaks of could be very good. Anything decent won't be cheap though By avoiding welding you will not burn any "anti-rust" coating from the other side of the metal.

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  10. #10
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post

    ... remember there 110volts so you can't import...

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    Shane L.

    Is there some kind of import prohibition on 110v tools ?

    Surely you could use a 230v-115v step-down transformer to run the tool!

  11. #11
    Tadpole
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    Neet tool thanks for sharing.

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