205 mi16 conversion - what parts can i skip to hurry it up?
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts Capago's Avatar
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    Default 205 mi16 conversion - what parts can i skip to hurry it up?

    hey guys, doing my xu9j4z 205 conversion at the moment, but just trying to hurry it up because of limited funds available, and wanting to finish it before rego at the end of april 11. ive been advised to replace everything on the timing side i.e. belt, tension rollers, water pump and screw column bolts, also being advised its a pain in the ass once its in the car and that i'll regret not doing it with the motor on the floor. however that being said ive been reccomended i get a full head service and new rings and liners but thats all just extra money - the aim to get the car running at least, nothing fancy!

    seeing as i may be taking the motor out at a later stage anyway, should i just change the cambelt? if the rollers are worn then im guessing the belt will be good for about 60,000km, more than a year of driving for me anyway.

    suggestions or oppinions?

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts BIGRR's Avatar
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    Default New bet required!

    Quote Originally Posted by Capago View Post
    hey guys, doing my xu9j4z 205 conversion at the moment, but just trying to hurry it up because of limited funds available, and wanting to finish it before rego at the end of april 11. ive been advised to replace everything on the timing side i.e. belt, tension rollers, water pump and screw column bolts, also being advised its a pain in the ass once its in the car and that i'll regret not doing it with the motor on the floor. however that being said ive been recommended i get a full head service and new rings and liners but that's all just extra money - the aim to get the car running at least, nothing fancy!

    seeing as i may be taking the motor out at a later stage anyway, should i just change the cambelt? if the rollers are worn then im guessing the belt will be good for about 60,000km, more than a year of driving for me anyway.

    suggestions or opinions?
    You would be silly not to replace the belt! The rest is not that hard to get to with the motor in providing you take your time.

    Good luck
    Present fleet:-
    Peugeot 93' 205 Gti 16v
    Peugeot 73' 504 Ti from new
    Peugeot 08' 407 Hdi Coupe from new

    Previous fleet:-
    Peugeot 95' 605 Sv
    Peugeot 92' 205 Gti
    Renault 72' 16TS from new
    Renault 69' 10
    Renault 71' 10s
    Renault 68' 10 from new

    "Be reasonable do it my way!"


  3. #3
    1000+ Posts PugMonkey's Avatar
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    +1 Cambelt and water pump being the bare minimum. Head service, well I would go by "if it aint broke don't fix it"!

    I was rushed with my transpland as the 8v died and it was my daily drive. So I had to use the donor engine I had "as is". I'm happy I did it that way as the transplant is hard enough without adding major surgery to the donk first.

    Now I have all the bugs ironed out (bar minor service work), I can now plan what other details I would like for the engine like cams, intake and engine management.

    Did you get a donor car for the Mi16 engine?

    Cheers,
    Moo
    ....now watch a Peugeot turn into a corner!

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Change cambelt, tensioner, idler and water pump at minimum.

    Head service is circa 300 plus labour to take it apart and put back together. Plus parts like valve stems and cam seals. Also while its apart the hydrulic lifters should be apart and inspected also. Its silly not to do it now. Then its done.
    That does mean new head gasket, exhaust gasket and inlet gasket. More $

    Do the minimum and go from there if cash and time are short.

    How are you getting around the exhaust and inlet clearence issues?

    Cam
    94 205 Gti Classic #9
    91 205 Si
    87 205 GTi Race Car
    http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/res...-race-car.html

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Capago's Avatar
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    ah, thanks guys for your responses!

    definately replacing the belt. It actually snapped on the previous owner at 260k, it was at 312k last it was running. alot of km i know, but then again i have to stick to the idea of if it aint broke dont fix it in this case, been without a car since august.

    in regards to the water pump and tensioners, im assuming there not 100% critical if they werent noisy or leaking? i know its all stuff i want to do later next year, but time wise just after a car. the motor will be coming out anyway to get the head done, clean up the motor, new liners etc baffled sump and what have you. a head service is a definate because it blew smoke on cold startups. also didnt like starting when it was hot, but ive got a 205 gti starter motor, hoping its the same?

    in re: moo about the donor car, i had the 405 originally and let it run out of rego, and was still running up until november 09, and sat in my garage untouched until i found it a good home

    thanks everyone

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    If your changing the belt, its really advised to change the idler and tensioner bearings too. They will have done their time. While its apart and easy to get to just change the water pump too.

    Smoking on startup sounds like the valve stem seals, or some oil seeping past the rings. More than likely liner wear. ( Or both )

    Cam
    94 205 Gti Classic #9
    91 205 Si
    87 205 GTi Race Car
    http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/res...-race-car.html

  7. #7
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    If a tensioner or idler pulley seizes, you've got anything from a few seconds to a couple of minutes before the belt snaps.

    Cheap insurance.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

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