Gasket seepage.
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Thread: Gasket seepage.

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default Gasket seepage.

    Crystal balls might be handy with my query.
    My ,79 504 GL has slight coolant seepage on the front R corner between the head and block. Has been like this for over 6 months, doesn't leak enough to leave a puddle under car, top up is about a cup full per 2 or 3 weeks.
    None of the usual problems, no overheating or emulsion in the oil or coolant.
    As the seep is near the exhaust manifold the smell of hot coolant is sometimes evident.
    I've had a good look at one of my spare heads to see what's in that region,only one of the waterways as I suspected.
    The head has never been off, [90,000k] so I'm thinking its just the gasket?

    My call goes out to anyone who has had this experience and what they may have found?

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    Humbly Yours,
    Wildebeest.

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Default head leak

    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest
    Crystal balls might be handy with my query.
    My ,79 504 GL has slight coolant seepage on the front R corner between the head and block. Has been like this for over 6 months, doesn't leak enough to leave a puddle under car, top up is about a cup full per 2 or 3 weeks.
    None of the usual problems, no overheating or emulsion in the oil or coolant.
    As the seep is near the exhaust manifold the smell of hot coolant is sometimes evident.
    I've had a good look at one of my spare heads to see what's in that region,only one of the waterways as I suspected.
    The head has never been off, [90,000k] so I'm thinking its just the gasket?

    My call goes out to anyone who has had this experience and what they may have found?

    Humbly Yours,
    Wildebeest.
    Hi 'beest

    Seen a few of these, sometimes corrosion, not sure why, sometimes just a seep for reasons unknown from the gasket.

    At risk of being called a "butcher" I would flush the cooling system comprehensively, re-tension the head and give it really good dose of chemi-weld. Not permanent, but if only a seep it may do the trick.

    Is it only an external seep or is there a oil in the water ?

    Edit: Isn't that below where the heater hose goes into the waterpump ? , I'd have a good look around this for a downward drip from this piping.

    regards


    Robert

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default

    Hi, I support what Robert is saying. As the liners sit higher than the external face of the block some slight leakage to the outside without any "headgasket" problem is quite common (at least since gaskets have become less "sticky"). The water trying to escape externally is only doing so at radiator cap pressure and may well be stopped by Chemiweld.

    I wouldn't get too carried away with quantity though, one container should be enough. I am not aware of any other product quite the same and as such would only use this on for this purpose.

    Cheers

    Jim

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default Seepage..

    Part 2.
    Have had a system pressure tester on my 504 for around 2 hours now. I initially pumped it up to 10lbs/sq". Seepage now evident in the area prev. posted.
    Pressure then set at 8lbs/sq". After an hour it had dropped to 5 and is holding.

    Not mentioned previously but I am running a 7lb cap with a recovery system,
    4lb recovery caps aren't available.
    I might refit the standard 4lb cap until i get organised enough to remove the head.

    Many thanks for your replies, after all this is what "Aussie Frogs" is all about eh?

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Default Chemi Weld

    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest
    Part 2.
    Have had a system pressure tester on my 504 for around 2 hours now. I initially pumped it up to 10lbs/sq". Seepage now evident in the area prev. posted.
    Pressure then set at 8lbs/sq". After an hour it had dropped to 5 and is holding.

    Not mentioned previously but I am running a 7lb cap with a recovery system,
    4lb recovery caps aren't available.
    I might refit the standard 4lb cap until i get organised enough to remove the head.

    Many thanks for your replies, after all this is what "Aussie Frogs" is all about eh?
    Hi 'Beest


    Don't be at all worried about chemi weld blocking up engines or radiators.

    It doesn't.

    I kept a 403 engine which had been cooked (not by me!) going for 2 years with chemi weld.

    I would give a single dose and return to the correct pressure radiator.

    Follow the intructions on the can very carefully. It really does work.


    EDIT: I forgot say, after they stopped supplying Copper & Asbestos head gaskets (probably a 1/4 century ago !), I always use hylamar (spelling?) on headgaskets. It a gooey potion that sticks like sh!t to a blanket but I have never had a leak after using this stuff. My old timer mate who does lots of Toyota also uses it on all aluminium heads.

    Don't spill on the bench -when set it is difficult in the extreme to remove.




    regards

    Robert
    Last edited by robmac; 25th January 2006 at 08:31 PM.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default Gasket seepage..

    "Off with her head".
    Removed the head of the 504 on Sunday. Exactly as expected, corrosion everywhere. The area that was seeping was bad, almost ready to rot through. Surprisingly the core plug behind the water pump was ok.
    Bearing in mind the car is now 26 years old I suppose the corrosion was to be expected.
    Took it to my head man today for inspection, he didn't seem too fazed about what he saw. The valves were in good shape [90000k] no recession evident, number one exhaust seat looked dark as if the clearance was a bit tight.
    I've been using Flash Lube since owning the car.

    A rough history of the 504. Bought 6 years ago from a little old lady with 42000k up. [Not the old lady you fool]. Coolant history unknown. In my custody I've been using Tectaloy 60. As can be seen from this the kilo's had nothing to do with condition, time was the culprit.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default Gasket seepage. Final.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest
    "Off with her head".
    Removed the head of the 504 on Sunday. Exactly as expected, corrosion everywhere. The area that was seeping was bad, almost ready to rot through. Surprisingly the core plug behind the water pump was ok.
    Bearing in mind the car is now 26 years old I suppose the corrosion was to be expected.
    Took it to my head man today for inspection, he didn't seem too fazed about what he saw. The valves were in good shape [90000k] no recession evident, number one exhaust seat looked dark as if the clearance was a bit tight.
    I've been using Flash Lube since owning the car.

    A rough history of the 504. Bought 6 years ago from a little old lady with 42000k up. [Not the old lady you fool]. Coolant history unknown. In my custody I've been using Tectaloy 60. As can be seen from this the kilo's had nothing to do with condition, time was the culprit.
    "She goes, she goes"
    After leaving my 504 head at Mettam's Eng. for extensive corrosion surgery I spent a few lazy days cleaning up things for the refit. This is the part of the job that takes time, something I could never get over to the workshop service managers in the bad old days. Their blind reasoning was that as soon as a head or engine was removed it was a straight forward matter to nail it back together when it returned from the reconditioner. I could never find evidence of his magic cleanup elves in the meantime !

    To make the job simple I removed everything from the head before removal, the inlet manifold, water pump and radiator and finally when the head bolts were removed off came the rocker gear, that is a heavy lump!
    The exhaust manifold was released from the head and levered to one side and wedged away from the head. All this may seem like overkill but it makes for a more manageable head when refitting. using a couple of guide studs the chances of gasket damage is reduced.
    When the head came back looking like new I spent time tapping stud holes and running a die nut over the studs, it's great to be able to run the nuts and studs by finger when reassembling. The stud holes in the block and the head bolts were given the same treatment, ensuring that the tightening procedure didn't have any binding threads.
    All studs and nuts went together with a liberal coating of "Nev'r Sieze". The head was pulled down per the good book and the tappets done, all this will be redone after I knock up 1000k.

    All in all a couple of days steady work with lots of tea consumed. Gone are the days of "let's get it knocked together so we can get to the arvo session".
    By the way I told the head man I'd been using Tectaloy 60. He suggested I spend a few dollars more and use Tectaloy's Gold.

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