R16 Carby problem!! Help Please!
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default R16 Carby problem!! Help Please!

    My newly acquired R16 (TL auto) [I will post separately on its acquisition when I get this problem sorted] is suddenly idling way too high (approx 3000+ rpm). I have replaced the return spring with a sturdier/stronger one and having mucked around with the throttle stop screw and the volume control screw. I can get it to idle about right with the engine at operating temp, BUT, I then take it around the block a couple of times and when I get back the idle has returned to the 3000+ rpm. If I then take off the air cleaner and start mucking around with the throttle stop screw and also the volume control screw I can get it back to an appropriate idle speed but the settings are basically what I started with and again the high idle will return after the next blast around the block. I don't think the kick down cable has anything to do with it as the gear changes are pretty normal and it will kick down on command. I am suspecting something is worn inside and jamming the throttle open. However if there is some sort of external linkage that I might need to try and tackle or something obvious I might have missed I would be grateful for any suggestions. I am best described as a K-Mart mechanic so please don't get too technical with any responses. Many Thanks in anticipation.
    (I fear my next trip may be to the fine young Tonny Goode at Linton's Garage, Glenelg.)

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  2. #2
    Simon's Avatar
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    When did it start having the symptoms? After you had performed some work on the car or when polishing the rocker cover or something?

    Have you checked to make sure all the breather hoses are in their proper place, usually if one of these is dislodged or broken it causes an airleak giving the symptoms you describe.

    Is the choke pushed all the way off, and the butterflys fully open?

    Check security of the brake booster hose (if booster is fitted) and if any air leaks.

    There is a vacuum hose on the manifold, is that split or causing an air leak, again check any breather hoses around the base of the carby, some have restrictors which can fall out (if the hose is removed) causing rough running and fast idling.

    Last but not least, is the carby nice and tight on the manifold, and the base flat? (A warped carby base is very rare but not unknown)

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default R16 Carby Problems

    Simon,
    Thanks for the prompt reply.
    As a matter of fact the problems appeared after I replaced the fuel line from the pump to the carby and inserted a filter in line (did not happen straight away though).
    I have replaced the breather hose from the rocker cover to the air cleaner previously and all others are in their correct place although perhaps a little old (I will check condition further in the morning).
    Choke is all the way off and butterflys are fully open.
    I haven't touched the breather hose from the manifold but will check its condition in daylight.
    Yes the carby is nice and firm on the manifold.
    Once again thanks for responding so quickly.
    Philip

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default R16 Carby Problems

    I have checked all the hoses and all appear okay. Small hose from manifold (underneath base of carby body) to air cleaner had a restrictor in it that appeared to be blocked. I cleaned with a needle and when reassembled provided suction with no obvious air leaks as did the brake booster hose.
    I ran the motor again and at operating temperature got it idling pretty well okay, but did not take it out for a spin (too lazy to move the other three cars).
    However, when I came back to it a little later (45 mins?) but with the engine still warm I started it (no choke involved) and it went straight to the high speed idling.
    Iím stumped (not hard to achieve I realise) and unless someone can come up with more suggestions I am off to the carby place on Monday. I am suspecting something loose or worn internally and therefore the throttle obviously not returning to its base position.
    Any assistance gratefully received.
    Philip

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    Maybe your secondary throttle is not returning fully. It should only need a short spray of Inox near the shafts through the little tube supplied with the can, and a bit of exercise. Yes you can use WD40, but I like Inox.
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  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default R16 Carby Problem

    Thanks for your input Alan.
    I have given the carby a reasonable clean inside and out with a spray on carby cleaner and given all the external moving bits a liberal dose of WD40 plus plenty of movement, but the problem persists. I looked inside the carby and the secondary throttle valve plate appears to be closed when engine is switched off.
    i started the car again this morning and once fired up it was running at the high revs.
    Still stumped!!

  7. #7
    Tadpole
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    Maybe a simple sticking throttle cable.? The symptoms would fit.
    You could push/pull the cable under the bonnet to determine if this is the cause.

    Cheers, Gavin

  8. #8
    farmerdave
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    Have you checked the vacuum capsule on the transmission and its tubing for vacuum leaks?.

    Farmerdave

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default R16 Carby Problem

    Just an update on the above. I should have posted earlier but with other distractions(work) and the hot weather it has taken me longer than it should to tackle the carby problem. [and now I have a brake problem (or rather lack of) that I will post separately on]
    Anyway back to the carby. I checked/tried all the suggestions made (many thanks to all) and finally took it to the carby bloke. He reckoned that the primary shaft was worn, but the replacement one I had retrieved (Thanks Rod) looked pretty good. Tony at Linton's was surprised at the carby guy's diagnosis as he had never seen this occur ever. (Tony grew up with and knows all there is to know about R16's)
    Anyway decided to swap carbies.
    Took the old one off and something falls into my hand as I pull it off the manifold. On this particular weber there is another lever/cam that sits between the choke lever and the secondary throttle lever and the screw holding it in place had stripped some of the internal thread and was therefore working loose and obviously jamming something. This lever/cam has its primary movement from the choke lever and then actuates the primary throttle. (I think)
    Any way I swapped the carby (this one just has the primary, secondary and choke levers) and after some minor adjustment to get the kick down cable to return properly it now runs fine.
    Once again many thanks to all for their input.
    P.S. I will now start another post on the brake problem!! ( Maybe later, just about to watch "Shameless" on SBS)

  10. #10
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Hey Philip,

    If it has a Bosch distributor, the internals may get sticky. I am a big subscriber to the ideology "If you think it's the carby, it's the ignition, and vice-versa". Worth doing the following, regardless of how the carb adventures are going:

    Remove the dizzy cap with wires still on it, and lay to one side. Remove the rotor and place in a safe spot. Look down the shaft where your rotor was sitting. You should see a small brown felt surface. This chunk of felt is to hold oil, slowly releasing it. Add a few drops of auto fluid, and watch them soak in. Refit the rotor.

    This oil will track down the shaft, lubricating the inner bore and its seat on the mechanical advance plate. A drop of auto tranny oil every six months is good practice. When your dizzy is not sticking, you can tweak the rotor in the direction it rotates, and feel a springy resistance that becomes a solid stop after 3/16" or so. This is the limit of your mech advance travel. Let the rotor go suddenly and it should snap! right back immediately and soundly. If not, it's either sticky or the springs are shot.

    Refit the cap, check all leads are pushed home and away you go.

    Regards, Adam.

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