505 1.8 couple of questions
  • Help
Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    israel
    Posts
    822

    Default 505 1.8 couple of questions

    hi

    i was trying to adjust the valve gaps but didn't have any tool to rotate the engine with. anyone knows what size socket is needed for the crank pulley nut? i have a double pulley there so i can't see the nut, all i know it's bigger than 30mm.

    Advertisement


    i was also trying to replace the radiator fan clutch but again didn't have the right socket for the main nut. anyone knows the size?

    i'm wanting to fit the electric wire for the radiator fan, but am not sure how.
    this is the wire i bought with the spring and the brush:


    505 1.8 couple of questions-99.jpg

    does it have to be inserted to the hole in the water pump? i was trying to insert it from behind as in the next photo but the plastic part wouldn't want to get in.

    505 1.8 couple of questions-88.jpg

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    728

    Default

    Yes.
    Your pictures correctly show where the plastic holder has to go.
    Its likely the inside of the hole has some dirt/corrosion in it and it will need a good clean.
    Also there should be a wire spring clip to hold it in once you have it in place.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,251

    Default

    I think the crank nut is 36. I just turn the alternator nut, and to stop the fan belt slipping I push or pull on the belt with my free hand, to tighten it.
    Just make sure to only turn it clockwise !

    Be careful to not overtighten the tappet cover bolts, or the cover will warp. And use new rubber sleeves on the bolts.....inside the cover. You can't re-use the old ones.....oil will leak out below, near the exhaust manifold. Then you'll think that the tappet cover gasket is leaking and tighten it more.......

    Oil will not leak out he top, where you think it will.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Posts
    2,712

    Default

    2pac,
    35mm socket or offset ring spanner to turn the engine. The alternative..Turn the engine with a spanner [28mm ?] on the alternator, depress the belt to prevent slipping.
    Not sure of the fan clutch nut, there should be a suitable size in your socket set. What's that. No socket set?
    As Roland posted there should be a clip for retaining the brush holder. Supplied with new W pumps. The wire from the brush goes to one side of the fan switch.

    PS. We are all anxious as to why you are removing the fan clutch?

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    israel
    Posts
    822

    Default

    Your pictures correctly show where the plastic holder has to go
    how deep does it have to go into the hole? should the brush touch the body of the pump?

    And use new rubber sleeves on the bolts.....inside the cover. You can't re-use the old ones.....oil will leak out below, near the exhaust manifold. Then you'll think that the tappet cover gasket is leaking and tighten it more.......
    here i'm in a problem... the 504 catalogue shows there's only one rubber sleeve, so i ordered only one. and it's taller than the 2 old ones i have. it's 28mm tall. why actually can't i use the old ones? they look ok. you say oil will leak from the bolt holes?


    PS. We are all anxious as to why you are removing the fan clutch?
    my fan is locked, i'm wanting to fix this and a new cluth from serie04 was cheap so i thought why not replace it, maybe it's faulty.
    Last edited by 2pac; 20th April 2013 at 07:51 PM.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    728

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2pac View Post
    how deep does it have to go into the hole? should the brush touch the body of the pump? . . .
    It should go all the way in right up to the shoulder of the plastic.
    The retaining clip then locks it in place.
    There should be only 1 or 2 mm of the brush showing once its all installed.
    The brush rubs on the angled brass ring that you can see in your picture.
    That's the actual contact for the electromagnets in the fan which when +ve current flows from the fan switch it activates and closes the clutch to engage the fan blades. The negative side of the current flow is through the body of the pump.
    If your fan is locked then it sounds like its seized or badly adjusted.

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    israel
    Posts
    822

    Default

    If your fan is locked then it sounds like its seized or badly adjusted.
    it was done deliberately i think, because the electric wire is absent.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Posts
    2,712

    Default

    2pac,
    Locking up the fan clutch was common in Aus with air conditioning. Possibly the same thinking over your way ?
    Leave the fan clutch as is but adjust to the correct clearance. {Haynes}.

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    israel
    Posts
    822

    Default

    yes, it has a/c. why did they use to lock it? it doesn't make sense.

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Posts
    2,712

    Default

    2pac,
    The thinking was to improve the cooling. The fan, having to draw hot air through both the radiator and condenser, needed a head start with a continous fan.

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,251

    Default

    My 505 fan is locked up because the solenoid was faulty. Not surprising after so many years. I keep it locked because it's one less thing to go wrong. I know I lose horsepower, but I'm past caring. It's a great old workhorse, and very reliable.

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    israel
    Posts
    822

    Default

    i fitted the brush and everything, adjusted the fan hub to 0.3mm, surprisingly the electromagnethic mechanism is working after so many years, but the fan is still spining with the engine, even when the cluth is not engaged. i can stop it with my hand but when i let go it will go on turning.

    what's wrong with that?

    and i also saw that the carbon brush is already worn out at the edge where it touches the pulley, after only couple of miles. is that normal?

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    728

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2pac View Post
    i fitted the brush and everything, adjusted the fan hub to 0.3mm, surprisingly the electromagnetic mechanism is working after so many years, but the fan is still spinning with the engine, even when the clutch is not engaged. I can stop it with my hand but when I let go it will go on turning.

    what's wrong with that?

    and i also saw that the carbon brush is already worn out at the edge where it touches the pulley, after only couple of miles. is that normal?
    Nothing wrong with it spinning while not engaged.
    Its free-wheeling on the water pump shaft which is turning - so some rotary motion is transmitted to the fan simply because the bearings it is mounted on are not totally frictionless.

    With the brush - make sure the brass ring it rubs on is clean and smooth.
    The brush should bed in and stop wearing.

  14. #14
    VIP Sponsor
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Posts
    9,569

    Default

    It leaks in the gaps of the welding of the top pieces to the cover if the sealing tubes are not there or old.
    Graham

    Quote Originally Posted by Beano View Post
    I think the crank nut is 36. I just turn the alternator nut, and to stop the fan belt slipping I push or pull on the belt with my free hand, to tighten it.
    Just make sure to only turn it clockwise !

    Be careful to not overtighten the tappet cover bolts, or the cover will warp. And use new rubber sleeves on the bolts.....inside the cover. You can't re-use the old ones.....oil will leak out below, near the exhaust manifold. Then you'll think that the tappet cover gasket is leaking and tighten it more.......

    Oil will not leak out he top, where you think it will.

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    israel
    Posts
    822

    Default

    as i got me only one seal i used a piece of rubber hose with a similar size for the other bolt, it seems to work in the meantime.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •