406 automatic

B

bwere

New member
Tadpole
Joined
Nov 16, 2012
Messages
2
Location
new zealand
i read in these forums that you change from auto to manual to free yourself from the senseless autoadaptive nonsense of the auto trans, please tell me which manual transmission do you recomend, from which vehicle.
Shame i like the car but my mind always fights the auto it seems illogical.the only time it is good is when you change the oil in it, but the recomended oil is quite expensive and does not seem to last. So will look at the manual transmission.
 
The gearbox to fit is an ML5T. You will need the hydraulic clutch and cable shifter setup from pretty much any of the larger diesels in late 406s in the UK.
 
Just look in wreckers yards for the same model as yours only in manuel. We could probably find a conversion kit here but we'd need your VIN to match it up.

Once the jobs done you'll be back in love with your Pug.
 
bwere said:
i read in these forums that you change from auto to manual to free yourself from the senseless autoadaptive nonsense of the auto trans
Click to expand...

No, you change from auto to manual when you find yourself with a blown auto. Which will happen.

Dave
 
Does anyone know how to have the auto reprogrammed? I'm looking for someone in Sydney to do it.
I'd have thought this would be easy given the box is used in other cars. I'd like mine to change down (not up) when I put my foot down.
 
I'm not sure that anyone has actually cracked the code in the ECUs of either the 4HP20 or AL4, to alter their traits.

Diagnosis for faults is different again; sometimes people fail to scope out the whole picture and miss a defective item elsewhere in the chain. Unhappy motor - even if temporary - can cause odd shifting behaviour.
 
Simply resetting the autoadaptives on ours made it 500% better. They are a beautiful gearbox when they're working well, it is always in the right gear.

Like Addo says, if there is anything not quite right with the engine, the gearbox may seem to misbehave. And it is a learning transmission, so anything in it's past that might have been abnormal for any period of time will impact it's behaviour.
 
Yes if the throttle position isn't sync'd properly it can be a real dog - not sure about 500% better but certainly nicer to punt!

Odd faults I have seen that screw driveline behaviour are dodgy cooling fans that cause a deep drop in current when they attempt a startup or speed change - this upsets the engine ECU briefly and can cause odd readings from a bunch of sensors, also blocked catalytic will cause the MAP sensor to read the manifold pressure vs throttle pedal "wrongly" and not kick down or upshift as desired. The mechanical kickdown switch on an AL4 is to my opinion a bit intermittent on the contacts too - don't think the 4HP20 unit has the same problem.
 
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