seized fuego manual steering rack?
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  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default seized fuego manual steering rack?

    Have been advised by pedders that the non self-centring of my manual steer fuego may be due to a binding/seized rack.
    They had it on the hoist and couldn't pull the rack/tie rod ends out without a huge effort.
    Does anyone out there have a genuine fuego repair manual detailing fault analysis/correction and/or dismantling of the rack?
    The Haynes manual, as per usual, tells you less than nothing!

    My father in law had a 20 that developed a similar problem with a bush going in the steering column?
    Any body had any similar experiences?

    David

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    See what the effort is like to turn the steering yourself with both wheels off the ground. From what I remember Fuegos don't self centre very well from a full lock turn anyway. I would doubt the rack would seize up, having seen 35 year old R10 racks taken out of cars that have sat for 20 years and probably never serviced, still OK and of a similar design to your Fuego rack.
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  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Europa's Avatar
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    If it fails to self centre from full lock (or near full lock) then you've got nothing to worry about - they all seem to do it (castor angle?) - you can then tell the Pedders guys they don't know what they're talking about.

    If it's failing from gentle turns then there might be a prob. I've not heard of a binding rack on a Renault before.
    '05 Pearl Black Mégane 5-Door LXR(Daily Driver), '75 Trak Yellow R16TSA (Parts Car), '74 Midnight Blue R17TS (Rebuilding), '73 457 Blue R17TL (Parts Car), '72 Alpine White R16TL (Retired), '69 Sunburst Brown R16TS (Awaiting Rebuild), '68 "Appliance White" Europa (Stored)

  4. #4
    Simon's Avatar
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    The Fuego rack comes under the heading of "sealed for life". There are no service parts available, and it is not intended to be rebuilt.

    A similar thing happened on my 12. When I first got it, the steering was quite heavy, heavier that I thought it should be even with the wider rims and tyres. On inspection it revealed a dry rack caused by a torn boot. Greasing the rack solved the problem.

    I replaced the rack boots, but before doing so put the rack on lock either side then turned the steering from lock-lock a few times to "circulate" the grease. This seemed to work, so it may be an idea on your Fuego to try. Especially if one of the boots has been replaced in the past, but moisture got inside before it was replaced.

  5. #5
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    Default Fuego Manual steering rack assembly

    Just had a look at my Autodata manual - gives a bit more infor than the Haynes and also the Factory MR238 Fuego Manual - both seem more concerned with wear in componetry than with binding or seizing ( I have never seen binding in any of our cars steering racks)

    Page 118 Quote[ if wear is apparent in the steering system after relatively high mileage and it can be attributed to the rack and pinion unit itself (i.e. all suspension and steering column joints and bushes are found to be sound) then it is possible to ascertain further which component(s) is/are at fault.

    If a heavy "clonk" noise is evident each time the steering wheel is moved from one direction to anotgher then it is likely that the rack and end bush is worn. Check this as follows:
    With an assistant rocking the steering wheel back and forth, grip the rack shafte through the bellows at the end opposite the pinion. If the knocking can be distincly felt at this point and there is side movement of the rack shaft in the its housing the bush is clearly worn. The rack end bush can easily be replaced by the DIY owner following the instructions given in the relevant section.

    Track and tie rod end joints should be checked for wear by seperating them from the steering arms, holding the joint housing and moving the ball pin around. If no resistance to movement is felt, i.e. the pin moves around very freely then it is best to renew both joints.

    Check the rack end ball joints as follows:
    1. Depending on which side is being checkedc, turn the steering wheel so that the rack shafdt protrudes as far out of its housing as is possible.
    2. Disconnect the track rod end from the steering arm.
    3. Grasp the rack firmly through the bellows with one hand and hold the track rod with the other. Move the track rod backwards and forwards along the axis of the rack, ensuring the rack does not move. If play between the two can be detected then the joint should be renewed as detailed in the appropriate section.

    Wear of the pinion bearings or the track damaper can only be accurately ascertained with the rack unit removed from the car. With the rack housing and rack shaft each held firmly (preferably in a vice) turn the pinion rubber coupling backwards and forwards by small amounts and feel fro any "clonking" between the pinion and the rack. If a large amount of wear or out-of -adjustmentis present then the pinion shaft will be seen to rise and fall slightly as it is turned. If excess play is apparent at this point, then any further repairs or adjustment should be left to a Renault dealer who will have the necessary equipment to carry out the operation satisfactorily.

    Note the steering rack assembly should not be removed without very good reason as the rack height setting is very important. The adjustment of the height setting MUST be done by a RENAULT dealer who will have the necessary special equipment] unquote

    But then the manual goes on to say! Quote [ Rack unit removal -
    1. Slacken the road wheel bolts, then raise and support the front of the car..
    2. Remove the road wheels, undo the track rod end nuts and separate the ball pins from the steering arms using a joint taper breaking tool.
    3. Undo the rubber coupling bolts.
    4. If the same rack is to be refitted, mark the position of the rack mountingh with a scriber so that the rack may be refitted in EXACTLY the same position. If a new rack is being fitted, the position making is not importnant as the adjustment will have to be done by a Renault dealer afterwards*

    Manual rack endbush removal can be done with rack assembly in the car- 17 point detail of removal... (if you need it pm me with snail mail address!!)

    Note Ken at Caravelle has new inner rack ball joint asemblies and the outer ball joints sets if needed.

    Steering trouble shooter.

    Steering feels stiffcauses.
    1. Low tyre pressures - Correct tyre pressures.
    2 Incorrect wheel alignment. - correct wheel alignment
    3. Stiff track rod ends.- check and replace if necessary
    4. Steering rack adjustment - adjust if necessary

    *I sort of gather that no special equipment will be around in Australia at any dealers and in any case I bet there is a trade work-a-round

    Ken

  6. #6
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    Default Fuego Front axle geometry.

    Factory Manual has several pages devoted to this aspect -

    [The purpose of adjusting the height of the steering rack (Dimension H) is to position it with respect to the front suspension arms. so as to obtain correct toe-in/toe-out value for any positionj of the front suspension.

    Ex. ; when the steering tie rods are parrallel to the suspension arms the variation in toe during suspension travel is zero.

    Handy to have a beam alignment equioment
    and special tools
    T.Av. 605-04 pointer gauge - useful.
    M.S. 504-01 Steeringf wheel holder - essential]
    (comment -Next section is to do with adjustment - not clear if this is for manual or power steering?)

    Steering rack and Pinion - Adjustment of the plunger

    Place the vehicle on a lift and raise the wheels.
    Adjust the adjusting nut (1) by straightening out the nut lock collar (A)

    Tighten the adjustiung nut to 1 plus minus 0.2 daNm (8 foot pounds) with a 10mm hex-head male wrench (when turning the steering wheel , the steering must be very tight), thenb loosen the nut a quarter turn (steering must then be free without any resistance when turning)
    Relock the nut in two opposite notches of the housing by bending down the nut lock collar.

    Steering centre point

    Performed while checking the front angle geometry, this procedure eliminates the need to remove a bellows to measure tghe dimension of the steering centre point:
    . Turn the steering as far as possible in one direction.

    . make a marking (A) at the top of the steering wheelhorn ring.

    . Turn the steering wheel as far as is possible in the other direction, counting the number of turns and fractions of a turn.

    ./ Turn back exactly half the number of turns (including fractions of a turn). this is how the steering centre point is determined.

    Alignment of the steering wheel (to be done after adjustment of toe-out distribution):

    . The steering rack must be in the centre point position described above.
    . Remove the steering wheel without moving the steering, then put it back in the horizontal-bar position in the closest notch (on the spline)

    . This position will be called the "straight ahead position"] unquote.

    I will try and scan some of the illustrations later.

    Ken

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    R25,Go into search mode on this site and do a search for 'Pedders'.Some amusing and interesting stories to behold!My first fuego began its fast road to death the day pedders rattled the shit out it. the sun roof rattled and leaked, the struts chatted,and everything that was maybe thinking about coming loose, came loose.
    I have a spare rack hanging up in the shed, and as I've now discovered the joys of power steering, will no longer need it. If you want it, you can have it as a spare,or for comparison to yours.
    Jo

  8. #8
    Tadpole
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    Default rack off

    Quote Originally Posted by Renault25
    Have been advised by pedders that the non self-centring of
    My father in law had a 20 that developed a similar problem with a bush going in the steering column?
    Any body had any similar experiences?

    David
    I had to replace my steering rack because one end had too much play in it. It took me about 6 hours to swap it over, mainly because I lacked some tools that would have made it go more quickly. This stuff about height I never knew about, so mine went back together easily and the steering has never been better - except for the suspension failure, but it happened before the rack was replaced. By the way, the ends on the rack can be removed. I had a spare rack with passenger side end worn, and driver side was ok which I used to fix the problem/

  9. #9
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    Default Inner rack joints

    Quote Originally Posted by Brianthepoet
    I had to replace my steering rack because one end had too much play in it. It took me about 6 hours to swap it over, mainly because I lacked some tools that would have made it go more quickly. This stuff about height I never knew about, so mine went back together easily and the steering has never been better - except for the suspension failure, but it happened before the rack was replaced. By the way, the ends on the rack can be removed. I had a spare rack with passenger side end worn, and driver side was ok which I used to fix the problem/

    Brian

    In the manual they claim that the inner unit, once removed cannot be re-used due to the design of the inner face with its crushable locking surface, incidently these units are available brand new at Caravelle and pretty reasonable in price. I bought some to replace the worn units on a Fuego first registered in 1987 - job still to be done I'm sorry to say!!

    Ken.

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