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  1. #51
    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    COL,

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    Your Chinese knock off looks very much like a pertronix to me. The accuspark is a bit narrower and possibly a bit higher. I did take some pics at some stage, I’ll see if I can load them.
    Not sure what they copied, but they have done a reasonable job, everything lines up without having to modify the base plate. The only modification I have made to the distributor was to shorten the screw that holds the distributor cap clip.
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    Regards Col

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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    This is an accuspark setup.

    COL's looks a bit more like Pertronix to me.
    Agreed. My Hot Spark (post #2) looks much the same as your photo with the switch exactly where the points were, and no timing change needed. The white plastic component moves like the points did for advance/retard. Yours clears the magnet wheel properly too, which the Hot Spark unit does not.

    I'm embarrassed by how clean yours is..... I'd better take mine apart, lift my game and clean it. My photo has about 30,000 km since installation, in my defence!
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    JohnW

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  3. #53
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    I wouldnít feel too bad John. I donít think ANY of my hobby cars have done 30000kms over their lifetime in my ownership.
    KB


  4. #54
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    Took the R12 Wagon for a drive this afternoon, had to advance the ignition timing more to get the car to accelerate properly.

    The ignition timing is advanced as far as physically possible now as the vacuum capsule now touches on the little lever that attaches to the butterfly spindle on the carbie. Will have to give this a little more thought.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    Took the R12 Wagon for a drive this afternoon, had to advance the ignition timing more to get the car to accelerate properly.

    The ignition timing is advanced as far as physically possible now as the vacuum capsule now touches on the little lever that attaches to the butterfly spindle on the carbie. Will have to give this a little more thought.
    Move the plug leads and rotate the dizzie to maintain timing.
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  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Move the plug leads and rotate the dizzie to maintain timing.
    I did try that Rob as its a nice quick easy fix, but when I tried to start the car it back fired. I'm not sure that I can get the distributor back the 90 deg required to make this happen. When the distributor is turned the other way it will hit the alternator.

    I will have another look at this tomorrow and see how we go.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
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  7. #57
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    I had a bit more of a look at my electronics points conversion this morning, I noticed where the 45 deg advance thing comes from. The magnets are cast into the plastic button in-between the lobes that operate the points, not sure if other manufacturers are in the same place but it makes sense as this is where there is the most plastic.

    IMG_4192.JPG

    I have also noticed that with the other manufacturers that the electronic module is in a different location to mine. Mine is installed pretty much where the points would be, and others are further round in the advanced direction from where the points would be.

    Effectively with my installation I have the moved the firing of the ignition 45 deg in relation to the rotor button which explains why I need to rotate the distributor so far. So need to think of an easy solution to this problem. Obviously the people that designed this nether thought about the rotor button and cam lobe relationship.
    Last edited by COL; 24th May 2020 at 05:51 PM. Reason: Could not insert pic earlier
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    I had a bit more of a look at my electronics points conversion this morning, I noticed where the 45 deg advance thing comes from. The magnets are cast into the plastic button in-between the lobes that operate the points, not sure if other manufacturers are in the same place but it makes sense as this is where there is the most plastic.I have also noticed that with the other manufacturers that the electronic module is in a different location to mine. Mine is installed pretty much where the points would be, and others are further round in the advanced direction from where the points would be.Effectively with my installation I have the moved the firing of the ignition 45 deg in relation to the rotor button which explains why I need to rotate the distributor so far. So need to think of an easy solution to this problem. Obviously the people that designed this nether thought about the rotor button and cam lobe relationship.
    Hi Col the answer is to pull out the skew gear and shift it a tooth or two. But if you look at the number of teeth to get the degrees per tooth and match that with the 90deg shift of the leads you will find a suitable position. I used a Fiat twin cam engine in a buggy and the dissy was splined into the gear with a fine spline and i had to chase the position of that quite a bit if careless. Good luck Jaahn
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaahn View Post
    Hi Col the answer is to pull out the skew gear and shift it a tooth or two. But if you look at the number of teeth to get the degrees per tooth and match that with the 90deg shift of the leads you will find a suitable position. I used a Fiat twin cam engine in a buggy and the dissy was splined into the gear with a fine spline and i had to chase the position of that quite a bit if careless. Good luck Jaahn
    Won't that procedure upset the position of rotor relative to the firing cylinder ?
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Won't that procedure upset the position of rotor relative to the firing cylinder ?
    Hi Rob
    Perhaps !! The devil is in the details. Without looking at the relative angular positions of the parts in the dissy, it is hard to tell from my keyboard !! You must check that the firing trigger is positioned so the rotor is at the appropriate cap lug, with room for the advance also.
    Jaahn
    The page format is still not working ! Maybee it is now !

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    Change from Chrome to Opera Browser. It's free to download and pretty intuitive to set up.

    Opera works perfectly for me.

  12. #62
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    I have come up with a fix to get the rotor button back in phase with the firing of the coil. I have used a rotary burr to remove the rotor button's locating lug and made up a new locating lug and installed it 45 deg from the original. I have moved the rotor button in a clockwise direction.

    When the glue dries i will put the rotor button back in and try it out.

    I was thinking to get the distributor body physically back to its right place I might remove the coupling from the bottom of the distributor and drill another hole 45 deg from the one that is there now. With the engine (R17TL) that I have in the car I can't simply just adjust the drive dog to another location without removing the head.
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    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
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  13. #63
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    Here is a pic of the modified rotor button, you can see where I ground down the original locating lug and made a new lug out of a 4 mm cheese head screw. I drilled a 4 mm hole in the side of the rotor button to locate the lug and add some mechanical strength as well.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
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    image.jpg


    Hi Col


    Just to add to what Jaan said, The centre of the skew gear has a hole in to which you can screw a bolt. Lift and rotate a tooth or two to get the alignment right.

    Ex.
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    I had a bit more of a look at my electronics points conversion this morning, I noticed where the 45 deg advance thing comes from. The magnets are cast into the plastic button in-between the lobes that operate the points, not sure if other manufacturers are in the same place but it makes sense as this is where there is the most plastic.

    IMG_4192.JPG

    I have also noticed that with the other manufacturers that the electronic module is in a different location to mine. Mine is installed pretty much where the points would be, and others are further round in the advanced direction from where the points would be.

    Effectively with my installation I have the moved the firing of the ignition 45 deg in relation to the rotor button which explains why I need to rotate the distributor so far. So need to think of an easy solution to this problem. Obviously the people that designed this nether thought about the rotor button and cam lobe relationship.
    That's interesting. I hadn't thought of that. Tomorrow, rain and gales permitting, I'll have a look at mine more closely. I think the Hot Spark must have the magnets in the "right" place.

    Of course, we haven't much room to move without the vacuum capsule fouling the spark plug leads.
    JohnW

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    Quote Originally Posted by Exfrogger View Post
    image.jpg


    Hi Col


    Just to add to what Jaan said, The centre of the skew gear has a hole in to which you can screw a bolt. Lift and rotate a tooth or two to get the alignment right.

    Ex.
    That is all well and good if you have a 810-** engine but mine is an 807-10 from an R17TL and the skew gear does not come out like that with the head on.
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    Regards Col

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    Ah yes. Forgot about that.
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    You might be able to lift it just enough to rotate and drop back down advanced a few teeth.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    Here is a pic of the modified rotor button, you can see where I ground down the original locating lug and made a new lug out of a 4 mm cheese head screw. I drilled a 4 mm hole in the side of the rotor button to locate the lug and add some mechanical strength as well.
    I tried out the modified rotor button today and was a non goer.

    I put the #1 cylinder at TDC so that I could have a look at how much rotation I have on the the distributor with the rotor stationary and found that the rotor did not loose contact while I rotated the distributor body through the available arc. This was my concern and the reason the modifying the rotor button.

    The car seems to run OK where the distributor is at present (advanced as far as physically allowable), I will see how it goes when I take it on a longer drive up some hills, if performance is down I will think about what to change next.
    Regards Col

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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    Here is a pic of the modified rotor button, you can see where I ground down the original locating lug and made a new lug out of a 4 mm cheese head screw. I drilled a 4 mm hole in the side of the rotor button to locate the lug and add some mechanical strength as well.
    I like that 4 mm hole. Call me conservative, but I'd be making a second one for the glovebox.... Such a neat idea Col. That's what you call lateral thinking.
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    JohnW

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    I like that 4 mm hole. Call me conservative, but I'd be making a second one for the glovebox.... Such a neat idea Col. That's what you call lateral thinking.
    Yer just a shame it didn't work as planned.
    Regards Col

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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    Yer just a shame it didn't work as planned.
    Why not? 45 degrees the wrong way?
    JohnW

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  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Why not? 45 degrees the wrong way?
    I did think about that John, then I decided to see how much rotation there was with the rotor stationary measuring between the centre terminal and cylinder #1 terminal of the distributor cap. I found that there is enough range in rotation and decided to leave things as they are for the time being.
    Regards Col

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