buying a 205
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Thread: buying a 205

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Andreas's Avatar
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    buying a 205

    i will be taking a look at a series 1 (1987) 205 GTi this week, it's for a family member.
    the car hasnt been registered for a few months and is missing some interior parts that i dont think will cost much to replace.
    it's pretty low mileage for it's age (160,000km)
    what should i look out for?

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    Andreas

  2. #2
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    Andreas,

    It souns like it has done reasonable k's
    But it is not a good indication of the condition of the engine
    A compression test will reveal most problems
    inside the engine
    My gti had only 134000 k's but the engine had
    a lot of corrosion inside
    Thats why i found a clean engine instead of rebuilding the old one i rebuilt the good motor instead
    There was a 205 gti for sale for about $4500
    in altona a while back it had series 2 alloys
    on it.

    Murat

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Andreas's Avatar
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    was that the black or white one selling for $4500 with 15" wheels?
    even if the motor isnt anygood i might still take it and stick the throttle bodied 16v in there
    not thats it's my car...yet hehehe

  4. #4
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    Andreas,

    I think it was the white car i noticed it in the trading post
    It had no reg i think
    Series 2 mags on it
    I wanted to offer him money for them but i couldn't be stuffed calling him or her
    205mi16 would be cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Andreas i am on the lookout for 205's at the auctions but at the moment just concentrating on the turbo setup

    Murat

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Howz the turbo set up going ? Can you get some digital shots for the performance upgrades forum ?

  6. #6
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    Andreas,

    I can only think of one thing you "need to watch out for".

    That rotten lift off oversteer

    Mine is the same year you are looking at. I havent had any problems apart from the diode and voltage regulator go bye byes on the alternator, and that alternator is specific to the 205 GTi. May want to run a voltage meter across it or something. The only other dramas I have had would be degraded plastics for the underdash/centre consul and a few rattles in the dash. I have most of the rattles gone, but the plastics are still fragile.

    The rear hatch will probably creak a bit as well, but other than those few things, mine's been ultra reliable.

    Just drive it, I reckon you could sniff out a good one compared to a worn out one as i did when my brother bought his 205. The same k's on both cars, but the difference between the 2 was huge. But so was the price

    Chipper

  7. #7
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    Chipper,

    I have had the exaxt problem with my alternator as u did
    I replaced mine with a 70 amp bosch unit that has better cooling due to newer design
    It looks like the series 2 hitachi in shape
    I dont think Andreas will be paying big dollars so he has to exept some hassles with the car
    James my manifold is completed and it only requires welding i am working on the drop pipe from the turbine outlet
    I have spent the past three months on getting the manifold to clear everthing and still be equal length in design
    I don't want to post pictures of the manifold untill i pull some good times down the quarter mile and track as people over the net coul'd copy the design.
    I will put some pictures up of everything in the car once i get a scanner.
    I am selling a car at the moment to make some money to purchase a 2L 16v

    Murat

  8. #8
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    Andreas,

    Apart from the obivous,

    CV joints, at $500 ea, make sure they are good. cracked split boots.

    Perished hoses, fuel, radiator, air brake (especially front). The '87's sat around on the docks, for up to 2 years. mine is '87, complianced in 89. had a lot of problems with cracked split hoses.

    warped front discs. not usual, but can indicate very hard driving.

    ensure air con working. very expensive to fix. enuf said.

    check for cracks in dash. while not structural, cosmeticly annoying. my dash was cracked, and the dealer fixed it with sickaflex. bodgy job. don't buy anything from allan mackay motors in moss vale.

    check 'b' pillars. grab them at the bottom where they are welded onto the floor pan, and try to pull them away from the car. make sure they dont move at ALL. make sure no cracks or rust. I have had to have my b pillars welded back to the floor pan, due to them cracking off.

    find out when timing belt done last, and fuel filter. timing belts should be done 60,000 (can last up to 80 i am told. but better to be safe) and fuel filter every 80,000k.

    ensure the oil hoses from the adaptor plate to the oil cooler are in good condition, and that the oil cooler bracket is in good condition. also, hoses from top radiator hose to the oil cooler, should be one piece, no joins.

    find hill, put in 5th gear at about 60, and floor it. good check to see if clutch is stuffed.

    hope this helps. if i can think of anything else. i'll post it.

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