Working on the SM

Time for an update seeing its been over a year since the LHM everywhere discovery. I took your advice Shane and bought a drip tray to take to car shows. At the FCD 18 months ago, the PO had much fun pointing out all the drip locations under the front of the car. The SM turned 50 years old during last year so I suppose the degradation of rubber and seals will just increase from here onwards. So I've been driving it quite a bit during last year even though I knew there was some LHM on the front disks. One can imagine how good the handbrake is. But the engine is going really well especially after I disconnected the start line to the Djet to hopefully stop it sooting up the spark plugs during hot restarts.

The LHM consumption has steadly increased during last year and it seems very wet up the front of the engine bay. The hydraulics on the accessory tray looked dry on top, but the whole accessory tray and the top of the gearbox are covered in LHM. I cleaned the LHM off the top of the gearbox under the steering rack and dried off the underneath of the steering rack then started the engine then wiggled the steering back and forth a bit. It seemed to stay dry. Then I looked at the HP pump and there seemed to be a shiny line of LHM sitting on the top of the pump output plate where it joined the circular aluminium housing are leaking allowing LMH to seep to the outside world between them. It must be HP pump rebuild time. I've ordered an O seal set from Der Franzose and found Budges Blogspot covering this reseal job.

Another major LHM leak area is under the LHM reservoir where it runs down the muflap and leaves a big puddle or trail of LHM between drives. The reservoir seems to have some LHM sitting on the top. Anyone know where that comes from ? Could it be leakage from the 3 small pipes that join into the rubber filler port assembly? I will have to take the LHS wing off the investigate what is going on with the brake accumulator.

I also checked my little clutch master cylinder reservoir to see how the LHM level was after I had to refill and reverse bleed it recently. LHM had all disappeared again so I put some more back in before I lose the clutch action.

Seeing we had a cooler rainy day, I decided it was time to put the front up on car stands to continue the diagnosis session and get ready to do some work. I put some car ramps under each side for additional safety and dived in underneath with a good torch. I have already put new boots on the right driveshaft and now the left driveshaft needs the two boots doing. I found the leakage drain tube from the clutch master cylinder and it looked dry. However there was LHM well dristributed under the gearbox and engine oil at the back of the engine sump on evident on all the sump bolts. I'm hoping that most of the engine oil is leaking out the camshaft covers.

Let hope for a few cooler days so I can get the LHS wing off and find out where the reservoir leak is coming from.

Here are some pictures for Shane.

Cheers, Ken

Reservoir Area Leak.jpg
HP Pump with shiney line.jpg
 
Good effort there Ken. I couldn’t get excited for garage jobs in the hot weather over 30C.
 
How did you know we would want pictures :ROFLMAO: Oh, its a DS 7 cylinder pump. If it turns the same direction as the DS, you could possibly replace with a steel bodied, rebuilt DS pump 🤔
 
How did you know we would want pictures :ROFLMAO: Oh, its a DS 7 cylinder pump. If it turns the same direction as the DS, you could possibly replace with a steel bodied, rebuilt DS pump 🤔
Internally the SM and DS pump are the same but you can't swap them. The high pressure outlet port on a DS pump exits axially underneath the drive pulley. The outlet port on an SM pump exits radially behind the drive pulley. Also the mounting ears are completely different.
 
I don’t think the pump really cares which it’s spinning provided it’s full of LHM. If your pump body is cracked and you’ve got a spare DS pump you can just swap the cast iron front plate onto the other pump body.

When rebuilding the pump make sure you lap the face of the brass shaft seal carrier
 
I don’t think the pump really cares which it’s spinning provided it’s full of LHM. If your pump body is cracked and you’ve got a spare DS pump you can just swap the cast iron front plate onto the other pump body.

When rebuilding the pump make sure you lap the face of the brass shaft seal carrier

That's what I thought too. I've found its not the case in practice though. I think the BX 16valve and BX pumps are different as they spin the opposite directions too :)
 
I do have an HP pump from CX wagon that is pulley driven and has the outlet format that John describes. I have it hooked up to my sphere testing jig. I did look at it to see if I could use it on the SM and found it would not be suitable.

I don't think the HP pumps are direction sensitive although I did see somewhere that early SM ones have a right hand thread and later ones have left hand threads on the main shaft. I don't think it really matters which thread you use so long as the tab on the shaft nut is firmly applied. But what I have found is the Airconed early CXs that have the pump running through a layshaft off the camshaft pulley are the same format as the SM pump except that the low pressure inlet tube on them leans backwards whereas the SM one leans forwards. So if you can get an early CX aircon HP Pump and swap over the outer casings, you are completely in business. I am currently testing a CX pump to see if I can take this speedier route.

I think I have had success stemming the flow of LHM from under the reservoir by tightening the rubber tubes that come out of the bottom to the level sight tube and the clutch master cylinder feed that were both dripping.

So now all I have left is to replace both boots on the left driveshaft joints, put new seals and pistons in the front brake calipers, and find and fix where the other leak in the clutch master cylinder feed line is.

Cheers Ken
 
I do have an HP pump from CX wagon that is pulley driven and has the outlet format that John describes. I have it hooked up to my sphere testing jig. I did look at it to see if I could use it on the SM and found it would not be suitable.

I don't think the HP pumps are direction sensitive although I did see somewhere that early SM ones have a right hand thread and later ones have left hand threads on the main shaft. I don't think it really matters which thread you use so long as the tab on the shaft nut is firmly applied. But what I have found is the Airconed early CXs that have the pump running through a layshaft off the camshaft pulley are the same format as the SM pump except that the low pressure inlet tube on them leans backwards whereas the SM one leans forwards. So if you can get an early CX aircon HP Pump and swap over the outer casings, you are completely in business. I am currently testing a CX pump to see if I can take this speedier route.

I think I have had success stemming the flow of LHM from under the reservoir by tightening the rubber tubes that come out of the bottom to the level sight tube and the clutch master cylinder feed that were both dripping.

So now all I have left is to replace both boots on the left driveshaft joints, put new seals and pistons in the front brake calipers, and find and fix where the other leak in the clutch master cylinder feed line is.

Cheers Ken
I tried to put a CX 5cylinder pump on the ID19 whne I converted it to LHM (they are a wwwaaaayyy better pump as they have higher capacity). They will not pressurise turning the wrong direction. You can bleed and turn it forever and it will not suck fluid and build pressure.
 
Shane,

The CX seven piston aircon style pump works with rotation in both directions with no load, I just tried it. It was really wierd seeing the flow going back into my bottle reservoir, then reversing the rotation of the drill and seeing the fluid continue to pump in the same direction.

I'm about to fit the CX pump and see if the inlet hose is long enough to cope with the change in lean on the inlet port.

Cheers, Ken
 
Shane,

The CX seven piston aircon style pump works with rotation in both directions with no load, I just tried it. It was really wierd seeing the flow going back into my bottle reservoir, then reversing the rotation of the drill and seeing the fluid continue to pump in the same direction.

I'm about to fit the CX pump and see if the inlet hose is long enough to cope with the change in lean on the inlet port.

Cheers, Ken

That's intersting to know. I'm pretty sure BX 8valve and 16valve pumps cannot be interchanged either due to the direction thing. OH >>>> Get a BX 16valve pump ... its spins the wrong direction like you need.... so will work, but have higher capacity :dance:

Was the CX pump able to reach regulator cuttout pressure when spinning backwards? Or was this unloaded. Like I said, I tried for bloody ages to get the CX pump working on a DS ... and it simply would not build pressure, no matter what I tried (If I ever stumble across a BX 16valve pump ..... I'm grabbing it to try on a DS !!).
 
Unless a CX pump is radically different internally to a DS pump I wouldn’t have thought it would care which way the shaft spins. The swash plate will rotate with the shaft in either direction and the pistons themselves don’t care as they just move up and down.

From memory, CX pumps have an overpressure valve in the pump body, maybe that was stuck open?
 
Unless a CX pump is radically different internally to a DS pump I wouldn’t have thought it would care which way the shaft spins. The swash plate will rotate with the shaft in either direction and the pistons themselves don’t care as they just move up and down.

From memory, CX pumps have an overpressure valve in the pump body, maybe that was stuck open?
It worked fine when I turned it the other way ........... Infact its a brand new NOS pump my father grabbed at a market in the UK over 25years ago :) It makes no sense to me, but apparently you can't interchange the 16valve BX pumps with the 8valve BX as they turn the opposite direction. In theory it should work. I certainly scratched my head when I couldn't get it working :)
 
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It worked fine when I turned it the other way ........... Infact its a brand new NOS pump my father grabbed at a market in the UK over 25years ago :) It makes no sense to me, but apparently you can't interchange the 16valve BX pumps with the 8valve BX as they turn the opposite direction. In theory it should work. I certainly scratched my head when I couldn't get it working :)
Hey Shane - I'm pretty sure 8v and 16v BX pumps spin the same direction but have other differences.
 
I have fitted an old CX hydraulic pump to the SM to see if it will work and not leak. I have success on both counts. Now to work out how to swap the cover from the old SM pump onto the replacement old CX pump so that the input hose is not so stretched and curved. Shane below is a video clip where you can hear the pump recharging the Accumulators.

Cheers, Ken


 
I have fitted an old CX hydraulic pump to the SM to see if it will work and not leak. I have success on both counts. Now to work out how to swap the cover from the old SM pump onto the replacement old CX pump so that the input hose is not so stretched and curved. Shane below is a video clip where you can hear the pump recharging the Accumulators.

Cheers, Ken


View attachment 234400
Brilliant, I couldn't get this to work :dance: :dance: Is there something different with the 5 cylinder pumps that will stop them priming when spinning backwards? Like I said, it makes absolutely no sense to me :)
 
I have fitted an old CX hydraulic pump to the SM to see if it will work and not leak. I have success on both counts. Now to work out how to swap the cover from the old SM pump onto the replacement old CX pump so that the input hose is not so stretched and curved. Shane below is a video clip where you can hear the pump recharging the Accumulators.

Cheers, Ken


View attachment 234400
 
That’s very interesting to know Ken. There are some 90 and 45 degree rubber elbows available for oil hoses of the right bore that might help deal with the hose connection bend.
 
I made spares of the crumbling block and the female snap rivet from a 3-D printable nylon co-polymer "bridge" filament. I have the stereo lithography files. If anyone needs the files, send me a p.m. I can also post a limited supply for the cost of shipping from the USA
 
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