Can I just remove the terminal with the battery sensor, clean it (do I recall that you use vinegar?) and re-install it without upsetting the vehicles electronics?? A bit more complicated than the Triumph Herald I had in the '60s.
What is really necessary?
- Thread starter Allen
- Start date
Yes, but removing it from the battery terminal is a battery disconnection, so the usual timing-and-don't-touch procedure applies to avoid computer upset - see the handbook, and wait even longer to be sure. The main difference from the 60s is the presence of computers.
The cause is acid getting out of the battery and combining with the post alloy, so don't use vinegar (acetic acid). Clean the post area deposit with a small toothbrush or nail brush or similar, and then wipe clean with something mildly alkaline, like sodium bicarbonate in water to neutralise any acid, and rinse off and dry. The case to post joint will still leak a little in future, so smear the post bottom with petroleum jelly - it protects the post and will seal the tiny leak.. Wipe over the sensor too - it has possibly been affected.
Then do the reconnect procedure. You may have to adjust some of the display features like the clock.
The cause is acid getting out of the battery and combining with the post alloy, so don't use vinegar (acetic acid). Clean the post area deposit with a small toothbrush or nail brush or similar, and then wipe clean with something mildly alkaline, like sodium bicarbonate in water to neutralise any acid, and rinse off and dry. The case to post joint will still leak a little in future, so smear the post bottom with petroleum jelly - it protects the post and will seal the tiny leak.. Wipe over the sensor too - it has possibly been affected.
Then do the reconnect procedure. You may have to adjust some of the display features like the clock.
Ok Thanks. Got it. Don't know why Perth City Citroen didn't do it during the service. I've decided to see one of the local guys who runs a garage here in Margaret River about the other recommendations. He used to have a Peugeot with basically the same HDi engine and knows a lot about them. He ran out of staff during the covid calamity but hopefully could take on the engine mounting and anything else that is wise to have done. He fixed the air doser when the actuating arm fell off the flap valve (or whatever it is) so presumably will know if it does, in fact, need replacing, which I doubt.
The coolant was changed when the timing belt and water pump were - did that dealer do it? The correct coolant lasts years.
I was intrigued by the throtle position sensor note. Being a diesel there strictly isn't a throttle, as Ken said above.
Does the report mean something to do with the air doseur butterfly valve, or is a pedal position sensor on the accelerator pedal meant?
Ask the Margaret River man for a full error code read and take note of any codes recorded.
I was intrigued by the throtle position sensor note. Being a diesel there strictly isn't a throttle, as Ken said above.
Does the report mean something to do with the air doseur butterfly valve, or is a pedal position sensor on the accelerator pedal meant?
Ask the Margaret River man for a full error code read and take note of any codes recorded.
Diesel does have a throttle body with 2 solenoid operated butterfly's and they do fail with really strange symptoms .
1. the connectors get soggy in the oil and diesel soaked environment and fall of and the pivot points and connections of the butterflies to solenoid wear to failure new one is best but the terminal connections still remain suspect .
not cheap but what is these days .
1. the connectors get soggy in the oil and diesel soaked environment and fall of and the pivot points and connections of the butterflies to solenoid wear to failure new one is best but the terminal connections still remain suspect .
not cheap but what is these days .
Isn't this a throttle position sensor? https://www.fruugoaustralia.com/thr...Q8J4lk6zeYZx04Afuk9t_hc7LohB2J8xoC7joQAvD_BwE
My 406 D9 SV (3 litre V6 petrol) was reporting a TPS fault, so I swapped the above part for an identical one from a (non-running) 406 HDi (problem solved). So as far as I am concerned, at least the RHZ in the 406 does indeed have a TPS.
I've just discovered my local mechanic who knows about Peugeot/Citroen engines has gone away for 6 weeks, so I might look elsewhere. I can't see what is supposed to have snapped in the RHF engine mount. Can anyone supply a pic of what to look for please? I was quoted $283 for the part three years ago, but seem to recall that the job would take 2 days and cost heaps.
2days to change a top engine mount? ...... You mean an hour right ... if you have a coffee break in the middle. ?
Sorry, it was so long ago, maybe it was something else. Perhaps the Rocker cover gasket "starting to leak" reported in July 2020 but not since. But maybe not. I'll probably have the engine mount done up at TVR in Dunsborough, and can have a lovely lunch at The Blue Manna while I wait. Makes sense, doesn't it?
Sorry, it was so long ago, maybe it was something else. Perhaps the Rocker cover gasket "starting to leak" reported in July 2020 but not since. But maybe not. I'll probably have the engine mount done up at TVR in Dunsborough, and can have a lovely lunch at The Blue Manna while I wait. Makes sense, doesn't it?
I ordered the RH front "Anti-torque link" (Engine mount? Seems to be some confusion here). But I'll be damned if I can see where the existing link is broken. There is no obvious sign of breakage when I compare the (very substantial) new part with the old. However, the issue has been reported twice. Does the part break where it can't normally be seen? Very curious. It's due to be replaced on Friday week.
The torque links usually develop some cracking in the rubber bushes at each end due to the restraining work they have to do during acceleration and engine braking. If the top engine mount fails and sinks down, that exacerbates the stress on the torque bar accelerating the damage to the rubber bushes. That's my experience.
Cheers, Ken
Cheers, Ken
Ken is correct. The engine mount is a roughly cylindrical structure that holds the weight in an up and down mode. The "torque reaction" device works in a fore/aft way to restrain the engine mass under "power" and "off power " modes.
It is a device as long as a handspan with a rubber insert at both ends. One rubber is oriented in a vertical way while the other is mounted with a horizontal orientation. The rubber "cushion" band cracks in the trapezoidal end .. the engine end of the dogbone.
This is the engine mount.
This is the torque reaction rod. Note the square end with just a small band of rubber. The rubber breaks from fatigue after absorbing trillions of vibrations, big and small. Whenever the engine is running ( or in the case of the mount even when sitting still ) these components are under some loadings.
Neither are particularly difficult to access or replace. They do require TORX tools ( the internal star shaped socket thingies ).
As noted above, all over in an hour, certainly not the excess time quoted.
It is a device as long as a handspan with a rubber insert at both ends. One rubber is oriented in a vertical way while the other is mounted with a horizontal orientation. The rubber "cushion" band cracks in the trapezoidal end .. the engine end of the dogbone.
This is the engine mount.
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This is the torque reaction rod. Note the square end with just a small band of rubber. The rubber breaks from fatigue after absorbing trillions of vibrations, big and small. Whenever the engine is running ( or in the case of the mount even when sitting still ) these components are under some loadings.
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As noted above, all over in an hour, certainly not the excess time quoted.
Thank you. That explains why it is not noticeable to my unpracticed eye. Anyway, it will be replaced on Friday week. I have also asked for the garage to check the other recommendations I mentioned in my initial post. Thanks for all the advice. Allen.
Next time it is on a hoist, check the lower torque link at the back of the engine for similar degradation. On C5 with the RHH engine you can change it fairly easily and I don't think there is a need to remove the driveshaft as for some earlier versions.