Tool Talk

After marking out with masking tape, I then tap the surface with a centre punch. This breaks the glazing and makes it easier for the first drill size. Fresh bits are always best, but I have been using the cheap craftright brand from bunners with fairly good results. I drill with no hammer function to get started. Always drill last hole size slowly for the plug to grip. Bit of 30 min. polyethylane foaming glue never goes astray. Porcelain tiles are a pain.
 
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As long as common sense is applied, like not trying to drill a 6mm hole in a 4mm grout line, there is no reason why 100% of your attempts should not turn out successful. Obviously the closer to the edge of the tile, the less likely chance of success.
G'day Jo,
interestingly, on mortar lines, running cables for an outside light I needed a slightly bigger hole than the mortar width, of course - and, accordingly, suffered your mentioned drama with a two flute drill... :(
The same hole attempted with a four flute was an instant success... which suggests that the offering from Aims Industrial could prove very useful.
cheers,
Bob
 
My first thought was that looks like a job for a diamond cutter, and quickly found this:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/p-n-6mm-diamond-core-drill-bit_p5710032

The comments are positive, and it looks suitable for drilling on the grout lines.

I am surprised that the spade bits actually cut into ceramic, but obviously they do.

Cheers.
I agree with using a diamond tipped tool, easy cut less pressure, though I have had success using the spade drills on glass and ceramic, just proceed with as little pressure as possible and yes suitable lubricants are essential. If you are doing a lot of tiling or restoring tiled bathrooms a small diamond tipped tile cutter is heaps better than the old score and break tile cutters. They are so cheap these days, just make sure the cutting wheels have a generous coating of industrial diamond where you need them. The larger tap size diamond cutters do a great job too.

That Diamond tile cutter was almost my first use of Chinese manufactured tooling and successful, I don't think mine will ever wear out even though it has done a power of work.

Ken.
 
G'day Jo,
interestingly, on mortar lines, running cables for an outside light I needed a slightly bigger hole than the mortar width, of course - and, accordingly, suffered your mentioned drama with a two flute drill... :(
The same hole attempted with a four flute was an instant success... which suggests that the offering from Aims Industrial could prove very useful.
cheers,
Bob

Use an angle grinder with a diamond grit blade. A squirt bottle full of water is fine for cooling.

We used this combo exclusively for chasing brick and masonry. We found it worked better than the purpose built chasing tool with less mess and damage.
 
My first thought was that looks like a job for a diamond cutter, and quickly found this:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/p-n-6mm-diamond-core-drill-bit_p5710032

The comments are positive, and it looks suitable for drilling on the grout lines.

I am surprised that the spade bits actually cut into ceramic, but obviously they do.

Cheers.
2 things with that core drill... It is a two person job and it makes a frigging mess.
Dry powder on say a travertine stone floor is one thing but wet slurry is a whole different level of grief.
Not to mention, I don't want slurry anywhere near my expensive driver.
I've used them (as a trades assistant) and apart from having a high burnout rate and being very expensive, require a lot more effort to get right.
When drilling a decent sized hole, say 100mm there is nothing better than a diamond core drill, but at 6mm, I think they are overkill.

Jo
 
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2 things with that core drill... It is a two person job and it makes a frigging mess.
Dry powder on say a travertine stone floor is one thing but wet slurry is a whole different level of grief.
Not to mention, I don't want slurry anywhere near my expensive driver.
I've used them (as a trades assistant) and apart from having a high burnout rate and being very expensive, require a lot more effort to get right.
When drilling a decent sized hole, say 100mm there is nothing better than a diamond core drill, but at 6mm, I think they are overkill.

Jo
I've used neither, but I am learning from this thread. I would have thought that anything other than a round grinding type action would just crack a ceramic tile, but it appears the 2 blade, and preferably the 4 blade spade tips do a good job, so I know what to get if I need to drill a hole in a tile, something I have always avoided.
Cheers.
 
a sure recipe for an event..... :)

Bob
Exactly - so next time the missus says she would like a hand grip mounted in the shower recess I won't brush it off like I have in the past! (Nah, can't do that, might crack the tiles!).
Cheers.
 
hmmm, I'd still keep away from the edges or, procrastinate.... :)

Bob
 
here's the masport 5 ton axe at play. This wood is green, 30-40% and more moisture levels...

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Bob
 
check this dude out, Bob. Better than TV
Worth the time to watch all the videos in the build series.

 
G'day Jo,
looks a similar size to the Masport [5t 1500W] but the wood he's playing with is woosy stuff, lovely straight grain, not like gum trees with their knarled grain structure. The Masport has a two way splitter head adapter but there is no way it would drive a stick through it, well, not gum tree !! Across the growth rings they fight you all the way, hanging on across the split. With the growth rings they get to the split point with a BANG and usually fly off the splitter several feet, SWMBO stands well clear... :)
On the splitter machine, I note that he has made access difficult - the Masport needs to be stood on end to top up the oil. His looks similar at that end, hope he hasn't been too clever... :)
One of the better 'garden tools' we've gotten over the years, it splits stuff that the axe style hand splitter bounces off, very satisfying.... :headbanger"
cheers,
Bob
 
Yes, Euro/American wood looks nice and regular, and probably not quite as difficult to work as Ironbark.

Whilst I was getting inspiration for my firewood shelf last year, I discovered you can actually buy 'display grade'logs (birch etc) to stack inside just for the sake of having that photo shoot look in your house. At the price they command, you'd not want to be burning them!!

I quite like the mangled iron bark look though.

Jo
 
linkage splitters, nice, aaaah, that's expensive firewood with no tractor.... :)

Bob
 
i've got one of the kings ultimate tooks kits in the back of my car ...... the tools are remarkably good quality for what they are. Usually $89 online + postage for the kit (or $110 from the local store).

https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/ad...bush-mechanic-illuminator-led-head-torch.html

facebook is telling me these tool kits are on special today for $110 including delivery. An excellent tool kit just leave in your cars and not touch (so its there ... without missing tools when you actually need it!).

 
Picked up a Makita Recipro Saw I ordered about a month ago from Total Tools (Makita were out of stock before). It's the DJR183Z (18v skin), which is the lighter duty Makita, with corresponding lighter weight and manageability. I just want something to carry out everyday type hacksawing, or maybe a bit more than that. Anyway, it feels good.
Quick video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KnARyVocDFT8vtYL7

While I was there at Total Tools, I saw this cheap set of Torx screwdrivers - I have bought the odd individual one but not often seen them in a set (for a reasonable price anyway). 7 piece for $26.95. Look OK. The drivers are much easier than the L spanners most of the time.

Total Torx Set_reduced.jpg
 
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