Tool Talk

Does anyone have suggestions on a brake bleeder that works well with ABS blocks etc.... I usually get the wife or one of the kids to try and pump the pedal for me. Not needing this would be easier (yes I know the hydraulics cits are simple and only need one person :) ).
 
PC290268.jpg


An old fuel vacuum pump works great. Just ensure to seal around the bleed screw threads to stop pulling air in there. JG.
 
No. Why would it?
Been using for years.
Just paste liquid teflon, rubber grease or thick paint around the bleeder screw thread exit to stop air being drawn in there.
I have always promoted NOT pedal pumping ~ it can destroy an otherwise good master cylinder.
 
I've been searching around. I reckon this one is the go. Its a pressure bleeder so you don't need to worry about introducing air into the system.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gunson-...971547&hash=item1caac3684e:g:fYIAAOSwYPJeFgl1

The magic is the variety of reservoir caps that come with it! There is a french version listed there too. I wonder if that means metric caps, or simply french instructions and text.
 
G'day,
aaah, memories. My youth version of that was a rather large vegemite jar with a tyre valve and copper tube soldered into it. You could get a selection of master cylinder caps from places like repco to go with it, other necessary gear was a just a hand or foot pump to power it.
Worked like a charm, just needed to ensure the vegemite jar didn't run out of fresh fluid... :)
cheer,
Bob
 
The herbicide pressure pumps that Bunnings sell work well suitably adapted for a few $'s. But vacuum doesn't require the master cylinder cap/s.
Can be as simple or complex as you like. here are a couple I made & sold, as I prefer vacuum. Don't make too big otherwise one is just wasting brake fluid. It is, except DOT 5 [not 5A], hygroscopic & deteriorates when subject to air.
FI: Don't use DOT 5 with a hydrovac system or most ABS.
Bleeder2_zps0zjd4zus_1.jpg
Bleeder4_zpsexdvm6xi_1.jpg
 
Nice .... I think I'll just buy compressor driven vacuum type on with a larger jug. That way I can use it to suck oil/coolant as well when required. It seem that people struggle with them as they are introducing air into the braking system from around the bleeders thread.

I rekcon that pressure one will be problematic as my cars will all have weird sized french brake filler caps
 
G'day,
this thing has been in the cupboard for years, got on spec somewhere....
SOBA 180970.jpeg


had reason to get it out yesterday, WOW, how easy it makes setting out.
No paperwork in the box, so unknown source and price, probably weakened at Lake Goldsmith... :)
"SOBA #180970 Optical Center Punch"
Endorsement from happy punter.
cheers,
Bob
 
G'day,
this thing has been in the cupboard for years, got on spec somewhere....
View attachment 129006

had reason to get it out yesterday, WOW, how easy it makes setting out.
No paperwork in the box, so unknown source and price, probably weakened at Lake Goldsmith... :)
"SOBA #180970 Optical Center Punch"
Endorsement from happy punter.
cheers,
Bob
I had no idea what I was looking at here, so I googled it...
This is a good explanation for anyone (like me) who needs it.
 
Precisely what I needed, in the last week.
I got 6 plates water jetted with 8 x 8mm holes @ PCD 88mm ~ unfortunately the person who set up the diagram for the machine misread the clear sketch & set the PCD @ 80mm.
I decided I could rescue the day by measuring up & drilling 8 x 8mm holes @ PCD 88mm as the shop was closed till January 18th.
Those small variances when centre popping can ruin things, as it did.
Was able to get another business who saw I'd called 3 times over 3 days, call me & asked what I was after.
All Waterjet Cutting in Molendinar Qld. 07 5563 1384 said to come in 0630 New Years Eve morning & they'd re-do the other groups stuff up.
Great man Ethan! Turned out less expensive that the other mobs screwing up.
 
Last edited:
Drilling at any number of holes at any PCD is not that hard. Yes, it can be harder with an odd number of holes but not necessarily. It is easy to divide the circle with infinite precision just with a straight edge and a divider (duh!).

Eight holes is one of the simplest circle divisions.

Sure, if you want something with commercial appearance it's easier to have it laser cut, water jet cut and so on, but for a perfectly functional tool/instrument/part/jig/whatever you can do it yourself.
 
It is easy to divide the circle with infinite precision just with a straight edge and a divider (duh!).

Sure, if you want something with commercial appearance it's easier to have it laser cut, water jet cut and so on, but for a perfectly functional tool/instrument/part/jig/whatever you can do it yourself.
My comment was on the optical centre punch ~ "Precisely what I needed, in the last week". It wasn't intended as ammunition for ridicule.
Anyone to who can markout & hand drill [not press] 8x8 mm holes on an 88mm PCD in 6 pieces of 5/6mm material then have 3 each of these align perfectly then bolt up accurately to the TA's trailing arms deserves recognition.
Better man than me Gunga Din & I've been @ it 59 years now ~ not so simple ~ DUH!

DSCF2481.JPG
 
Last edited:
Drilling holes in tiles...

just finishing off drilling just five 10mm holes into established tiles, screw clearance holes. What a cow of a job, there's a mountain of bits here, and a nice slow battery Hitachi - at it all yesterday arvo and there's still one to do !!

I found the easiest starter was a "glass" bit from Aldi to get through the glaze, but it only made a starter, ready to work on with a "normal" masonry bit. Looking at them here, it seems that they are all made for percussion, they all have blunt chisel points - 'cept a rare few that are not as blunt as others. It became a matter of bit swapping to, in turn, dig and enlarge, until I finally got through. Old hard fired bricks are a breeze compared to these tiny tiles !

What's proven successful with others ?

cheers,
Bob
 
Drilling holes in tiles...

just finishing off drilling just five 10mm holes into established tiles, screw clearance holes. What a cow of a job, there's a mountain of bits here, and a nice slow battery Hitachi - at it all yesterday arvo and there's still one to do !!

I found the easiest starter was a "glass" bit from Aldi to get through the glaze, but it only made a starter, ready to work on with a "normal" masonry bit. Looking at them here, it seems that they are all made for percussion, they all have blunt chisel points - 'cept a rare few that are not as blunt as others. It became a matter of bit swapping to, in turn, dig and enlarge, until I finally got through. Old hard fired bricks are a breeze compared to these tiny tiles !

What's proven successful with others ?

cheers,
Bob
I have never tried to drill tiles but a quick Google turned up these available from the green shed

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-4...ra1PtPj0381kwjpKxoBoCQUAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
  • Like
Reactions: bob
The Ryobi bits are much like the Aldi offerings, which proved great for actually quickly biting through the surface. Mixed reviews with the couple of users on the Bunnings page, at least one doesn't need to wait for the next Aldi offering to get more of them...
Bob
 
I would say you'd be setting yourself up for failure with those ryobi bits.
Looking at the shank, they just say rattle gun or similar.
You don't want the bit dancing all over the place.

I use those flat blade bits for tiles, but always in a good quality multi-speed drill, and the bits cost considerably more than 4 for $10.
More like 2 for $40
https://www.bunnings.com.au/sutton-tools-8-0mm-glass-and-tile-drill-bit_p6353631
A 6mm and an 8 mm is all I've ever needed.

As long as common sense is applied, like not trying to drill a 6mm hole in a 4mm grout line, there is no reason why 100% of your attempts should not turn out successful. Obviously the closer to the edge of the tile, the less likely chance of success.

There comes a point where the bits get dull, whereby you replace them. I have replaced mine once in about 30 years of DIY work.
Jo
 
  • Like
Reactions: bob
Carbide can be sharpened on a silicone carbide (green) grinder wheel. It is not going to look as nice as sharpening on a diamond wheel but it will be sharp. If using a diamond wheel, you need a slow grinder (a few hundred RPM) not a "normal" grinder (about 3000RPM).

You can also use a small diamond lap to sharpen the tip, but these are not cheap. A cheap diamond wheel from China will also do the job (but you need a slow grinder).

Like Jo says, you also need a slow, powerful drill to go through, as slow as you can find one.

Do be careful with carbide dust.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: bob
Thanks Jo,
my thoughts also. Doing the final hole was a lot easier using the Aldi 6mm first until it's point made it to the bottom of the tile, then followed up with the 8mm and an ancient 10mm masonry that WASN'T a chisel point.
I see that these flat blade style are available at much higher quality, Sutton as you mention, Bosch also has a couple of grades. At double the money there is Alpen brand from Sydneytools, again a couple of grades.
Although these are cheaper than that stuff, they certainly look the part....
https://www.smithandarrow.com.au/pr...m-8mm-10mm-12mm-tile-glass-ceramic-drill-bit/
I also found that the Dremel gray stone tones up the old carbide... :)
The old Hitachi gives nice control - much better than the Bosch blue....
cheers,
Bob
 
Top