Bob
I am sure it will be handy elsewhere, take care mate.
I am sure it will be handy elsewhere, take care mate.
Tool Talk
- Thread starter jo proffi
- Start date
Well these are hand little buggers I'd have to say, called a bullseye pick (google it). They are perfect for removing small dents in car panels. The only improvement I'll make is adding a removable hardened tip.
Can you ever get it to fit into the places you need to use it
I've been watching some of "fitzees fabrications" videos lately. He doesn't use any tool you probably don't already have.... infact seems to do everything with a 4" grinder, mig welder and whatever gadgets he's made up himself from scrap around the shed.
Fitzee's Fabrications
www.youtube.com
I reckon you'll really like to see how he makes patch panels etc.
Has anyone noticed, half the sockets (especially impact) that are around these days ... You need to spend a heap of time on the bench grinder knocking them ends of them down (as the bit that engages the nut/bolt head is deeply recessed). So if your nut is thin ... or rounded, your onlly grabbing the very edge of it until you grind the end off the socket.
most ... eg:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/kincrome-1-1-2-square-drive-impact-socket_p6110743
you would need to grind about 5mm off the end of it to get it to sit flush(this would only grab a narrow nut but the very edges). I've noticed nearly every impact socket I have (all cheap crap) is like this.
as a comparison, here is one you don't need to grind flat.
The recess (reverse chamfer?) makes it easier to locate on the nut, eg, for wheel nuts it works well. But I do agree that many sockets, not necessarily impact sockets, have the internal chamfer which does reduce the contact area on thinner nuts. I notice it specially on the common bolt head with the flange, eg, Tek screws, and many car body screws, which also seem to have a taper on the hexagon. My most common reason for grinding a socket is to narrow down the outer diameter to fit the recess around a nut/bolt, knowing full well that sooner or later that socket will crack.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Can you ever get it to fit into the places you need to use it
Yes Indeed, I made the above example to use on an old school curved mudguard and it worked so well I intend making another with about 200mm extra reach..
Yes, well, Kincrome is crappy (despite its cleverly named promise of both King and Chrome it delivers on neither) but ABW is a decent brand.
Roger
Roger
I'd rate kinchome as an acceptable mid range product. I have a multi socket set which having been within their limits are still going strong some 7 years after purchase.
Kincrome aren't a heavy duty socket set, but they do have the advantage of being compact which is an advantage in general use.
They are also well priced.
I wouldn't tackle a tractor diesel engine nor truck wheel nuts which are obviously suited to more heavy duty sockets.
It's horses for courses I'd suggest.
All sockets including good brand names are like that (chamfered). The difference I found when I had to make some bespoke nuts/bolts was that the fit on the hex. Typically .1mm play for good tools, much more than that for crappy ones (up to .5mm - my guess here is they make one size and stamp them for either imperial sizes or metric as they need). Similar story with drill bits. A 3.2mm bit is in fact a 1/8 imperial. If you mike it, it will come exactly at 3.18 (a bit under in fact - as expected). Buy quality tools, you only pay once.
I don't think the recess is anything to do with quality, just different preferences in design. Some Snap On ($$$) impact sockets have the internal chamfer. Works very well in most applications but not all.
That's why bench grinders were invented.
I have duly noted the "I made..."Yes Indeed, I made the above example to use on an old school curved mudguard and it worked so well I intend making another with about 200mm extra reach..
Tis handy to have a bucket of inherited sockets from ages past, that seem to weld up into a "special tool" a bit like the spanners one bends just to get into that stupid design space - who put that Bl@@dy bolt there.. I guess there had to be a reason for all those made up FACOM factory Renault tools...
Ken
I guess there had to be a reason for all those made up FACOM factory Renault tools...Ken
I have plenty of old sockets here... no single hex 12mm with narrow walls for the rod shells in an ID19 (or the 46mm nut for the crank). I'll grind down a single hex impact socket for the 12mm .... these days you can buy odd stuff like 46mm online for about $25 inc delivery! (years ago that would have been a special order that we'd wait months on .... and probably pay half the cars market value forTis handy to have a bucket of inherited sockets from ages past, that seem to weld up into a "special tool" a bit like the spanners one bends just to get into that stupid design space - who put that Bl@@dy bolt there..
Ken
).
There is nothing odd or weird about 46mm, it's a standard size in all of the metric standards. From what I can tell, the only other sizes smaller than 120mm that are used in all of the metric standards are 8mm and 10mm. I have a 46mm socket here, that size would be in all the 3/4" drive metric socket sets. If you want odd, try the 42mm nut holding the fan in a GS, or the 35mm nut holding the rear wheel bearing in a DS, or the 29mm nut holding the steering relay in a DS. All of them are from the old French metric standard of 1930 and nothing else.
Roger
Roger
Quite likely. The driveshaft nuts on R12 are 35 too and so are those on 205GTI.
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CX driveshafts can be 35 or 42 .... I'm guessing they changed manufacturers at some point. I don't remember the Renault 12 driveshafts having a 35mm nut ( oh, unless it was able to be removed with a shifter LOL). I didn't have any tools back when I owned a renault 12 I was good at changing driveshafts though ... mongrel all leaked gearbox side).
R12 R16 R15 R17 driveshaft nuts are 24 mm across the flats.
Do we have anything like this tool in Australia?