No Joy yet. Not sure where to start. Seems like it must be a connection issue. Have you heard of anyone else with this issue? I will have a look under the steering column tomorrow.
Technical advice
- Thread starter dmccurtayne
- Start date
These are the quick instructions for removing a 70-75 D dashboard. found them, and with the upcoming end of Aussiefrogs 
I thought it should be posted here.
Hi Michael-
The dash instructions I posted to Matthew:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnm
Hi Bill
thanks for the offer of help. I'm not in any great rush to fix the vent lever but will get around to it.. if you can give me an outline of the process for removing the dash to access the vent controls that would be great.
Thanks again
Matthew
Hi Matt:
I'll be copying and pasting this to another AF'r, because he also asked for the dash destruction instructions. If enough other people ask, I'll make it a post in the technical section.
Curl up with your favorite beverage, this will take a while.
Assuming you don't have air conditioning (most D's, even here in the US don't):
Disconnect the battery!!
The next step is remove the instrument cluster. Now, I don't know if it's the same for the RHD cars, but for the LHD cars, you'll first disconnect the speedometer cable at it's fitting near the ignition coil. That makes the cluster FAR easier to remove. Fit the cable through the firewall- it does not need to be passed all the way through- enough to give slack for the cluster. Remove the 4 screws fitting the cluster to the dash carefully- those corners are notoriously easy to break. Work the cluster out (you will likely have to put the gear lever in 4th or reverse), then unscrew the speedo cable from the speedo head (feed more cable as you have to), and then disconnect the 3 electrical connectors. Lay the cluster someplace where it is protected- they're brittle and easily damaged.
Next step is removal of the steering wheel pod. BVM/BVH/BVA, there is a chrome strip that bisects the pod and stops at either side of the steering column. At those points, on the underside of the strip are two screws- remove them. Then disengage the upper pod from the dash. Set that part to the side. You are now left with the lower pod and it's associated switches and wiring to remove. Ostensibly, everything is color coded. Realistically, all of the colors have faded to some shade of gray. Some masking tape and a marker of some sort will be your friend here. Also, if you are able, take some photos noting the location and routing of the wires. To actually remove the lower pod, there will be 2 or 3 philips head screws attaching it to the lower dashboard, and 2 4mm (8mm head) inside the pod, immediately to either side of the column. They're a little hard to spot at first, but unless they were removed and never replaced, they're there. Pull the pod loose, then disconnect the wiring, one plug at a time, marking as you go. The pod is now out, and that can be set aside.
Remove the screws that hold the heater control to the firewall. The control can be allowed to just dangle. You can now remove the remaining screws from the lower dash, which should total only 3 or 4. The entire lower dash should now be loose.
In the lower dash are your secondary controls for the car- rear defrost, blower fan, roof lights, and so on. These will all need to be removed. Starting with the clock, carefully prise it from the dash, taking care not to damage the paint or the clock bezel. There are three loose connections: power, ground, and lamp. Mark them if you need to. Next to remove is the plastic panel containing switches. Be very careful here- the tabs are very small, fragile, and can be difficult to remove easily. Mark the connections for what switch they came from.
There should be just one or two switches left, mounted directly into the sheet metal. Pop those switches out, and mark those wires. If there are any additional switches someone else has installed, pull, disconnect and mark those, too. If you feel the need, take photos- it's a hell of a lot easier to have a reference than a faulty memory.
The only controls left in the lower dash should be your choke and the ignition switch. Go underhood, and disconnect your choke cable. You will eventually pull the cable out with the dash. The ignition switch requires only removal of the bezel. For that, a pair of slip jaw pliers will do the trick. Grip the bezel gently, and twist counterclock-wise. It should easily release, and can be unscrewed by hand once it's loose. Careful, don't scratch the paint! Use masking tape as a protectant, however much you need.
If there is an aftermarket stereo, either under the steering pod or in the sheetmetal of the lowere dash on the passenger side, it will need to be removed. Most modern DIN-mount stereos have a pair of 'keys' to unlatch it from it's mounting cage.
After taking 5 for a smoke break:
We can now start on the upper portion of the dash. Open the glovebox. You will find either a plastic plug (ID/DSpecial/DSuper) or a lamp (DS20/21/Pallas). Pull that plug/lamp. If you have the lamp, make sure the wires stay available for hooking back up- they're easy to lose. Under that plug/lamp is a nut, a star washer, and a large flat washer. Remove that hardware. At the other side of the dash in approximately the opposite location is another nut, star washer and large flat washer. This is two sets of three you will be removing. The third set is at the dash center, just under the center speaker. Coming up is probably the fiddliest part of the dash- the radio pocket. Two philips head screws. You will need some patience for this, and a #2 bit in a 1/4 drive 1/4" socket, or a thumb drive with a bit, or possibly an "L" screwdriver. Anyway you do it, remove those two screws, and pull the radio pocket out. You now have access to that third set of hardware. Remove those pieces.
-->IF!! you have one of the dashboards with the dash mounted mirror, remove the mount hardware from that, and then VERY carefully remove the mirror- any sudden movement that smacks the mirror into the glass can easily mean a new windshield. <--
Two more screws, then the dash should come out. On either side of the dash, there is a 'wing', which wraps around and meets the A post. There is a philips head screw in that wing, remove it.
With that, the dash should come out. You will likely need to work it a bit, and another pair of hands is very helpful. Do note that there are two cardboard hoses- a short one going to the air distribution box from the defroster duct, and a long one from the air box to a floor vent on the passenger side. Now- occasionally the defroster vent duct, which is part of the dash, will get stuck to the firewall sound deadener. If this happens, you can either a) gently pry the duct from the firewall, or b) locate the plug on the firewall just above the valve cover. Remove this plug, and push on the duct as someone else works the dash out.
Removing the vent boxes from this point is easy. Directly under the face of the vent are two screws (sometimes philips, sometimes small bolt heads) recessed into the sheetmetal.
Remove the hardware, go underhood and remove the gray vinyl boot connecting it to the fenderwell duct. Then just work the box up-down-side-side. What has captured them is the rubber gasket sealing it to the firewall. A little light penetrating oil may help here.
Figure on a day to get it out, and a day or two to get it all back in. It all depends on how fast you work, and how easily it all works out.
:citplak:
__________________
I thought it should be posted here. Hi Michael-
The dash instructions I posted to Matthew:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnm
Hi Bill
thanks for the offer of help. I'm not in any great rush to fix the vent lever but will get around to it.. if you can give me an outline of the process for removing the dash to access the vent controls that would be great.
Thanks again
Matthew
Hi Matt:
I'll be copying and pasting this to another AF'r, because he also asked for the dash destruction instructions. If enough other people ask, I'll make it a post in the technical section.
Curl up with your favorite beverage, this will take a while.
Assuming you don't have air conditioning (most D's, even here in the US don't):
Disconnect the battery!!
The next step is remove the instrument cluster. Now, I don't know if it's the same for the RHD cars, but for the LHD cars, you'll first disconnect the speedometer cable at it's fitting near the ignition coil. That makes the cluster FAR easier to remove. Fit the cable through the firewall- it does not need to be passed all the way through- enough to give slack for the cluster. Remove the 4 screws fitting the cluster to the dash carefully- those corners are notoriously easy to break. Work the cluster out (you will likely have to put the gear lever in 4th or reverse), then unscrew the speedo cable from the speedo head (feed more cable as you have to), and then disconnect the 3 electrical connectors. Lay the cluster someplace where it is protected- they're brittle and easily damaged.
Next step is removal of the steering wheel pod. BVM/BVH/BVA, there is a chrome strip that bisects the pod and stops at either side of the steering column. At those points, on the underside of the strip are two screws- remove them. Then disengage the upper pod from the dash. Set that part to the side. You are now left with the lower pod and it's associated switches and wiring to remove. Ostensibly, everything is color coded. Realistically, all of the colors have faded to some shade of gray. Some masking tape and a marker of some sort will be your friend here. Also, if you are able, take some photos noting the location and routing of the wires. To actually remove the lower pod, there will be 2 or 3 philips head screws attaching it to the lower dashboard, and 2 4mm (8mm head) inside the pod, immediately to either side of the column. They're a little hard to spot at first, but unless they were removed and never replaced, they're there. Pull the pod loose, then disconnect the wiring, one plug at a time, marking as you go. The pod is now out, and that can be set aside.
Remove the screws that hold the heater control to the firewall. The control can be allowed to just dangle. You can now remove the remaining screws from the lower dash, which should total only 3 or 4. The entire lower dash should now be loose.
In the lower dash are your secondary controls for the car- rear defrost, blower fan, roof lights, and so on. These will all need to be removed. Starting with the clock, carefully prise it from the dash, taking care not to damage the paint or the clock bezel. There are three loose connections: power, ground, and lamp. Mark them if you need to. Next to remove is the plastic panel containing switches. Be very careful here- the tabs are very small, fragile, and can be difficult to remove easily. Mark the connections for what switch they came from.
There should be just one or two switches left, mounted directly into the sheet metal. Pop those switches out, and mark those wires. If there are any additional switches someone else has installed, pull, disconnect and mark those, too. If you feel the need, take photos- it's a hell of a lot easier to have a reference than a faulty memory.
The only controls left in the lower dash should be your choke and the ignition switch. Go underhood, and disconnect your choke cable. You will eventually pull the cable out with the dash. The ignition switch requires only removal of the bezel. For that, a pair of slip jaw pliers will do the trick. Grip the bezel gently, and twist counterclock-wise. It should easily release, and can be unscrewed by hand once it's loose. Careful, don't scratch the paint! Use masking tape as a protectant, however much you need.
If there is an aftermarket stereo, either under the steering pod or in the sheetmetal of the lowere dash on the passenger side, it will need to be removed. Most modern DIN-mount stereos have a pair of 'keys' to unlatch it from it's mounting cage.
After taking 5 for a smoke break:
We can now start on the upper portion of the dash. Open the glovebox. You will find either a plastic plug (ID/DSpecial/DSuper) or a lamp (DS20/21/Pallas). Pull that plug/lamp. If you have the lamp, make sure the wires stay available for hooking back up- they're easy to lose. Under that plug/lamp is a nut, a star washer, and a large flat washer. Remove that hardware. At the other side of the dash in approximately the opposite location is another nut, star washer and large flat washer. This is two sets of three you will be removing. The third set is at the dash center, just under the center speaker. Coming up is probably the fiddliest part of the dash- the radio pocket. Two philips head screws. You will need some patience for this, and a #2 bit in a 1/4 drive 1/4" socket, or a thumb drive with a bit, or possibly an "L" screwdriver. Anyway you do it, remove those two screws, and pull the radio pocket out. You now have access to that third set of hardware. Remove those pieces.
-->IF!! you have one of the dashboards with the dash mounted mirror, remove the mount hardware from that, and then VERY carefully remove the mirror- any sudden movement that smacks the mirror into the glass can easily mean a new windshield. <--
Two more screws, then the dash should come out. On either side of the dash, there is a 'wing', which wraps around and meets the A post. There is a philips head screw in that wing, remove it.
With that, the dash should come out. You will likely need to work it a bit, and another pair of hands is very helpful. Do note that there are two cardboard hoses- a short one going to the air distribution box from the defroster duct, and a long one from the air box to a floor vent on the passenger side. Now- occasionally the defroster vent duct, which is part of the dash, will get stuck to the firewall sound deadener. If this happens, you can either a) gently pry the duct from the firewall, or b) locate the plug on the firewall just above the valve cover. Remove this plug, and push on the duct as someone else works the dash out.
Removing the vent boxes from this point is easy. Directly under the face of the vent are two screws (sometimes philips, sometimes small bolt heads) recessed into the sheetmetal.
Remove the hardware, go underhood and remove the gray vinyl boot connecting it to the fenderwell duct. Then just work the box up-down-side-side. What has captured them is the rubber gasket sealing it to the firewall. A little light penetrating oil may help here.
Figure on a day to get it out, and a day or two to get it all back in. It all depends on how fast you work, and how easily it all works out.
:citplak:__________________
Hey I'm new as well but I'm just looking for some info on a c5 that I own. So here's the details.
2009 citroen c5 2.7 l diesel with some sort of turbo.
Looking online this motor was put in a variety of vehicles ford (territory), jaguar landcruiser, citroen. Now I know very little about diesel and even less about french cars. But what I am wanting to do is replace the motor in my current c5. My primary thought is to take the motor out of a wrecked ford territory is this doable? is it a horrible idea? I'm wanting to select a motor from a wrecker and dump it in.
however, if it's doable what do I need to look out for. What do I need to know?
2009 citroen c5 2.7 l diesel with some sort of turbo.
Looking online this motor was put in a variety of vehicles ford (territory), jaguar landcruiser, citroen. Now I know very little about diesel and even less about french cars. But what I am wanting to do is replace the motor in my current c5. My primary thought is to take the motor out of a wrecked ford territory is this doable? is it a horrible idea? I'm wanting to select a motor from a wrecker and dump it in.
however, if it's doable what do I need to look out for. What do I need to know?
No unfortunately the same motor is used in Ford stuff but the injection ,turbo and a few other parts are different so not interchangeable at a reasonable cost
Hi all,
I’m looking for a mechanic who can replace the brake pads on my 1967 DS21. Location is Melbourne eastern suburbs.
Please post any suggestions.
cheers
I’m looking for a mechanic who can replace the brake pads on my 1967 DS21. Location is Melbourne eastern suburbs.
Please post any suggestions.
cheers
Great news… I have a lead on a mechanic, but I need disk pads. I want to buy, but if none can be found quickly, I’d be grateful to borrow some for a short time while I source the new ones. If you have a DS laid up and could spare the brake pads for a little while, could you please let me know?
Looking for inspectorcloseau.My DSUper 1970 lost all its hydraulic fluid overnight.He lives nearby.Needs to be fixed but I don’t know any appropriate mechanics here.Qlso have a DS19 decapotable usine 1964.Both RHD.
Hi There. Welcome to Aussie Frogs.
Do you know any other Citroen Enthuiasts in you local area? I am aware of a couple, one in Murwillumbah and another in Nimbin. I also have a Qld Club Member who probably knows more contacts in the area. Is that nearer to where you are than Brisbane?
Did you lose the LHM while driving or when the car was resting? What bit of the car is is wet underneath?
Also, if there is not much evidence of LHM spill in the engine bay, then maybe a rubber pipe has failed under the LHM reservior.
To start a Conversation with Inspector Closeau. Click on the envelope next to you AF name at the top of the page. In the member field, start typing Inspector Cl.... and his name will appear so click on that. Then type a message and click the send button. The forum will send him an email with your message of New Years Disappointment.
Cheers, Ken
PS I'm sure things will improve soon. This is when you need a 20litre pot of LHM on standby - buy one between you two from Onshore Oils at Hemmant in Brisbane.
Do you know any other Citroen Enthuiasts in you local area? I am aware of a couple, one in Murwillumbah and another in Nimbin. I also have a Qld Club Member who probably knows more contacts in the area. Is that nearer to where you are than Brisbane?
Did you lose the LHM while driving or when the car was resting? What bit of the car is is wet underneath?
Also, if there is not much evidence of LHM spill in the engine bay, then maybe a rubber pipe has failed under the LHM reservior.
To start a Conversation with Inspector Closeau. Click on the envelope next to you AF name at the top of the page. In the member field, start typing Inspector Cl.... and his name will appear so click on that. Then type a message and click the send button. The forum will send him an email with your message of New Years Disappointment.
Cheers, Ken
PS I'm sure things will improve soon. This is when you need a 20litre pot of LHM on standby - buy one between you two from Onshore Oils at Hemmant in Brisbane.
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I drove to gym in morning andall was well.As I driving up my driveway the battery light came on and the steering became vey heavy.This morning garage floor was covered(litres)with green fluid.I know Mal Wardin Byron.A man saw me in my car in Federal,near Bangalow.He has a Safari and calls himself I Spector clouseau on aussifrogs.He has multiple cars.
you could try this i have this number in my phone under citroen mechanic ,both my sons had c4 picassos ,so i kept it for them encase of emergency ,citroen mechanic ballina 0266862247 ,im in tweed .sorry i cant think of anyone else around here ,
Thanks.Will give them a call.It is not my only car so no great urgency.
Sadly Ken, new members cannot use Conversations/Messaging until they have reached a certain minimum number of posts. I'm not sure what the magic number is (minimum for accessing Toad Pond used to be 30), but keep posting M. Usine - we all want to know more about your cars - and you'll soon be able to contact the Inspector!
Thanks Armidillo, I have started a conversation with Inspector Clouseau asking him to post up on this forum or send Mr Decap a message via a conversation although his post is not easy to find seeing it is tagged onto another thread.
Cheers Ken
Cheers Ken
A bit further south ….. Milano Motors Lismore. There is also a mobile french car technician. I’ll see if I can locate his details.