SYD - Peugeot friendly auto electrican?

renault8&10

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Anyone know an auto electrician in Sydney (preferably west) who knows Peugeot electrics?

The low speed fan is not working on my Peugeot 206 causing it get hot in traffic or low speeds. I’ve checked the relay wiring, and replaced the relay for the low speed side (all relays were tested and working however); checked the terminal connections to the relay (which seem fine - corrosion appears a common cause in UK according to the forums) and checked the resistance on the coolant temp sensor (which was fine - 1800 ohms at just above a cold ambient temp. The charts on internet tells me it should be 1500-2000 at that sort of temp range.
I’ve also changed the thermo resistor for the low speed side for a new one, and followed the bsi reset procedure.

It’s coming down to either a wiring issue or a cpu issue as my guess. The car was in a minor front end bingle and the fan, shroud and radiator etc came off a spares car with no damage but the harness itself is the original.

The fan works off the high speed side (but by then it’s too late) and will kick in briefly around 75C but doesn’t stay on, nor does it run when the aircon compressor kicks in as it should, but the fact it runs at all leads me to think the fan itself is OK.

I’ve pretty much reached the end of my limited talent, so looking to take it to someone who can diagnose and repair efficiently without throwing more than the cars worth at it. Any ideas?
 
I'm not necessarily asking for advice on fixing it, just the name of an auto electrician in Sydney.

The detail I gave was more why I was asking, so you saw the scope of what work they may have to do - but anyhow - 2003 206 XR 1.4 Auto with aircon and the TU3JP engine. The last 5 digits of the VIN are 47890.
 
Thanks dmccurtayne.
I had the AC checked and regassed already and that didn’t help solve it fully. The low speed fan is supposed to start when the compressor kicks in and stay on but it doesn’t. The fan kicks in briefly after a while, but then stops until the temp rises much higher. Disconnecting the CTS makes the gauge go full scale, and the fan kick in. The resistance appears Ok so while it may be a sensor, all the indications are that it is OK. I haven’t checked the blue sensor down lower on the thermostat housing but I believe that is engine temp off the head rather than the coolant?

That’s why I think it needs an auto electrician to now take a look at it.
 
To round this out for the possible benefit of others, I had the car at Colliers and got it back yesterday. The problem turned out to be the thermo resistor switch. I had tried three - the original, the spares car; and a new one from eBay that appeared to be an Australian seller, but the part was shipped from China. Despite having several OK inspection stickers on it, all three turned out to be faulty even the new one. Dave replaced it with one he had, and it worked straight away so he ordered a new one from Peugeot and popped that in. Did a scan of all the systems and declared it good to go.

Trying my luck, I did a return request on eBay last night and they readily approved and processed a refund. I’m waiting to hear if they want the old one sent back. The invoiced cost for a genuine one was $60 (but that probably includes a markup and/or courier costs), the fleabay one was $25. Just shows you that sometimes eBay bargains are false economy particualrly when you add Colliers labour on top. Had I bought a genuine one, I perhaps would have got it right first time!

KB
 
Well my problem has returned. The low speed fan is not working. Surely the switch couldn’t fail that quickly?
I tried another from a wreckers but no go.

Coincidently, the aircon seems to have run low on gas and not cooling. Does anyone know if A/c low pressure might cause the fan to not work? Last time I had the a/c gassed before I ended up changing the switch.
 
You need to get a current draw test on the fans and make sure the earth is ok


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Fix it right the first time
 
Hi David,

I pulled the front end off and put a multimeter set on continuity across the plug from the harness which has the thick green and yellow wire to earth (and a thick grey wire). The buzzer buzzed so I assume that means the earth is Ok. I test ran the fan by putting 12v onto the other tab and the fan ran, but I can’t tell if it ran at the correct speed nor how to do a current draw test.

Swapped a bottom relay over also with no difference. And finally plugged a spare fan I had in after test running in the same manner also with no go. I can hear the A/c compressor click and start but the fan remains still.

KB
 
Hi, a current draw test requires an ammeter, which is placed in series with the supply of power to the fan/electrical unit being tested. Is a good idea to also read the voltage, which is a parallel connection, so that the voltage drop can be observed at the same time. Excessive voltage drop can indicate a problem with the fan/unit and/or a poor connection, which creates heat, and will only get worse.
 
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