Spark plug leads

Andrew D

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Hi there,

Just wondering if anyone can enlighten me as to best leads to buy for my CX carby 2400. She is dropping a cylinder every now and then, was particularly bad the other day. I fiddled with all the leads and she came good, but would prefer not to run her without all 4 cyls as I don't think it does much good :)

Searched the posts, but couldn't find the item I read yonks ago. Any suggestions welcome - Autobard were asking $62 for a set but would take 5 days to arrive...

Thanks and regards
Andrew
 
Wongy at Auto France will probably have them. Genuine ones not all that cheap due to having some resistence or something wound into the actual leads but having said that, can't say I've ever had a CX with a problem such as you describe.
I'd suggest checking that the lead is definitely connecting to the top of the plug fairly tightly, the insulator that fits down before the lead goes on isn't cracked and allowing sparks to jump on the head and that no water has got down the plug recess.
I have strong reservations about it being a failure in the lead & although that's not impossible, it's very rare.


Alan S
 
Hi Andrew,
I had a similar problem years ago with a different car. Have a look at the engine running at idle, but look at it in the dark!. Any sparking/shorting becomes much easier to see. Then you will know what is the cause of the short. :D
Mine was shorting everywhere....( it was crazy, like all the leads had broken down at once) so I just fitted a new lead set. :)
BTW..I reckon a genuine REPCO replacement 4 cylinder lead set would work.
BTW. I'm really enjoying driving the red CX. :tongue:
Cheers...George 1/8th. :cheers: :cool:
 
Apparently a lead set for a Toyota T18 is a perfect fit for a DS engine and it even allows you to remove the old insulators and plug extenders. The plug end connectors are long self contained tube type doovies (technical term that)

Paul Smith knows the details.

This solution "may" work for a CX perhaps?

Apparently about $50 - 60 at your local head scratching shop (aka parts store "Sitrun mate, wots a freaking Sitrun?") :adrink:
 
Thanks one and all fixed. No 2 cylinder was the culprit, it appeared to be firm, but pulled it off, gently squeezed the end which made it fit a little tighter...

George, great to hear the red beast is proving to be an enjoyable experience.

Regards
Andrew
 
I just wander into the parts places with the old set of leads in my hands and match them to the leads they have hanging on a rack.... $20bux (about 5bux each) is far, far, far better than the 150+ I was quoted for guenuine :eek: :eek:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
...too late to be of much help in this instance, but Bosch list the following:

CX
2000 carb 80 - 86 2.4L, Part No:B4672i
2200 75 - 82 2.2L, Part No:B4044i
2400 76 - 82 2.4L, Part No:B4044i
2400 carb 80 - 86, Part No:2.4L B4672i
2500 EFI - 85 2.5L, Part No:B4687i

oh, and

D
Special 69 - 75 2.0, 2.2L, Part No:B4044i
Super 69 - 75 2.0, 2.2L, Part No:B4044i
DS
20 68 - 75 2.0L, Part No:B4044i
21 inc Pallas, Safari 67 - 72 2.2L, Part No:B4044i
23 72 - 75 2.3L, Part No:B4044i

They would all be classified as 'universal kits'.

I have no idea about $.
 
Hi Paul,

The Toyota leads fit a 1600cc Celica 1970-76, or an 1800cc T-18 1979-1984.

The Top Gun part number is TG4163 and if I remember they were about $70.00.

The good thing is they do away with all the extra paraphernalia - no extensions, no bakelite insulators etc - and fit and cover the holes in the rocker cover better then the Citroen red plastic plugs. On an injected car that makes things MUCH easier to deal with as getting to the plugs is a real B*)%* - the recommended procedure is to remove the injection manifold :eek: .

On a carby car they should fit fine, as the plug leads come out sideways from the distributor, but on an injected car the no 2 lead (from the front) is a stretch.

Paul
 
Paul Smith said:
Hi Paul,

The Toyota leads fit a 1600cc Celica 1970-76, or an 1800cc T-18 1979-1984.

The Top Gun part number is TG4163 and if I remember they were about $70.00.

The good thing is they do away with all the extra paraphernalia - no extensions, no bakelite insulators etc - and fit and cover the holes in the rocker cover better then the Citroen red plastic plugs. On an injected car that makes things MUCH easier to deal with as getting to the plugs is a real B*)%* - the recommended procedure is to remove the injection manifold :eek: .

On a carby car they should fit fine, as the plug leads come out sideways from the distributor, but on an injected car the no 2 lead (from the front) is a stretch.

Paul


Thanks guys for this information as changing the plugs and leads on the 23 is on my 'to do' list. I've filed this one away for future reference (actually I reckon it's worthy of inclusion in the common faults and fixes forum, for future reference).

Paul, you mention the 'recommended' procedure for changing plugs on an EFI car is to remove the injection manifold. Not having attempted this yet, I gather it is necessary with the standard leads and plug extensions, but you can get away without it with the above modifications?
Cheers,
 
Hi Brett - while the 'recommended" procedure is to remove the injection manifold you can take out the plugs without doing it - BUT you will need a tube spanner of exactly the right length - and one withiout one of the rubber things to hold the plug - the extensions get in the way - and you may have to crush the top in the vise to wedge it in past the manifold for the middle pair of plugs (you'll see what I mean when you try :( ) - it is easier if you can take off the extensions, but usually they are on tight, and you can't get a tool in to remove them - that is a major reason for dumping the original leads in my opinion, just to make changing the plugs easier.

Paul
 
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Brett R said:
Thanks guys for this information as changing the plugs and leads on the 23 is on my 'to do' list. I've filed this one away for future reference (actually I reckon it's worthy of inclusion in the common faults and fixes forum, for future reference).

Paul, you mention the 'recommended' procedure for changing plugs on an EFI car is to remove the injection manifold. Not having attempted this yet, I gather it is necessary with the standard leads and plug extensions, but you can get away without it with the above modifications?
Cheers,

I think Paul means that it makes life easier as you have less fiddly rubbish to deal with and the connections may be more reliable as the rubber cap of the plug end of the lead would certainly assist in maintaining a better grip on the head of the plug. Anything that reduces the need to remove the intake manifold would have to be more sanity inducing.

I once had a plug extender vibrate loose off the top of a plug and for some reason the engine was running rough :confused:
 
You've convinced me. I'll be changing the plugs and leads over in the near future, as the prospect of changing a dud plug on the side of the road, with the standard kit in place, does not sound the least bit appealing... Thanks Paul and Craig for your helpful (as always) comments.
Cheers
 
Paul Smith said:
Hi Paul,

The Toyota leads fit a 1600cc Celica 1970-76, or an 1800cc T-18 1979-1984.

The Top Gun part number is TG4163 and if I remember they were about $70.00.

The good thing is they do away with all the extra paraphernalia - no extensions, no bakelite insulators etc - and fit and cover the holes in the rocker cover better then the Citroen red plastic plugs. On an injected car that makes things MUCH easier to deal with as getting to the plugs is a real B*)%* - the recommended procedure is to remove the injection manifold :eek: .

On a carby car they should fit fine, as the plug leads come out sideways from the distributor, but on an injected car the no 2 lead (from the front) is a stretch.

Paul

Just ordered a set from my local Autopro for $39. :headbang:

This is just after I spent $133 for the gear to convert headlights. :headbang:
 
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