Rotisserie for TA

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KiwiPete

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Tadpole
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Oct 7, 2020
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Irvine, Ca
Well. Best laid plans. I had intended to pull the rear axle and tube this weekend. This would leave me with a mostly stripped shell that I could then begin the process of replacing the jambonneau, floor and sills. I have the front on a frame. Figured I'd put the back on axle stands (using the sills - not the beam axle).

Unfortunately, the passenger side sill is more rotten than I thought. It won't take the weight of the car. Def not in a way that I'm willing to climb under it to remove the axle etc. There's nothing under the card on that side that I can put an axle stand/plate under - other than the axle tube - which doesn't help.

I had been weighing up the idea of getting/building a Rotisserie. Looks like I'm going to have to proceed. Does anyone have pictures/links to a good design?

I really want to build a lightweight version. I don't have a Kingswood or a Chevy Nova so a 3000lb rated unit doesn't make sense.

While researching ideas, I swapped some messages a while back with Allen. His rotisserie was pretty amazing but its beefier than I think I really need. Plus storage after its done will be a problem.


DSCF4554.jpg


Ideally, I'd like to find something more like this

Rotisserie Rear.jpg


Any leads?
Pete
 
Maybe you will need to construct your own. preferably one that prevents any distortion of the front end mounting points when welding in forward sill and internal panels. The W/S manual is very specific in the matter of the repair jig Citroen recommends. I would like to include the best points of this device whilst also allowing for the mounted body shell to be rotated.
 
Where are you? I have 2 rotisserie ends with adaptable arms which can be made to fit lots of cars. Robust ( manually operated ) rotation and can be locked in several positions , Can be mounted to exterior strong points or a center bar like version 2 in the photos. I have done an alfa Coupe and a Jaguar mark 2 on it with a little bit of fabrication for each. Happy to lend that as I am not likely to need it for a while (if ever again ????) Ian
 
wheelnut said:
Where are you? I have 2 rotisserie ends with adaptable arms which can be made to fit lots of cars. Robust ( manually operated ) rotation and can be locked in several positions , Can be mounted to exterior strong points or a center bar like version 2 in the photos. I have done an alfa Coupe and a Jaguar mark 2 on it with a little bit of fabrication for each. Happy to lend that as I am not likely to need it for a while (if ever again ????) Ian
Click to expand...
Thanks Ian. I appreciate the offer. I'm in Southern California - so I suspect postage will be a killer 😆

Pete
 
gerrypro said:
Maybe you will need to construct your own. preferably one that prevents any distortion of the front end mounting points when welding in forward sill and internal panels. The W/S manual is very specific in the matter of the repair jig Citroen recommends. I would like to include the best points of this device whilst also allowing for the mounted body shell to be rotated.
Click to expand...
Good point Gerry. I've got the W/S manual open in front of me now. I'll see what I can come up with.
 
At this point I've got everything stripped off the body - with the exception of the suspension tube member. I've left that attached because I think that the remaining mounting bolts are helping prevent the body from folding in half.

I've got large amounts of rot in the floor, inside sills and outside sills. Its going to be interesting figuring out which bit to replace first so I can get some clean metal to weld to.

Following Gerrys advice, I've been looking at the shop manual for details of the repair jig. Has anyone ever built one of these? Any advice?
In todays world of CAD and laser cut parts I think the fixtures should be straight forward. I'm concerned with the base though. It looks like its made from 1" steel plate. An 11' * 5' piece of steel plate is not really an option.


1620579757586.png



1620580232916.png
 
Hi :)
I do not believe I ever saw a big jig like that back in the old days. I hung around the car dealers in my area and knew a few mechanics and I never saw any shops of any brand with anything like that. Possibly you could just construct a base or center frame with say 4" square tube welded together like a chassie and then some 'brackets' to go to the mounting points that are solid. Careful measurement with a laser level would ensure the alignment is good. If you has some 'brackets' that extended up at the front and rear you could make it rotate on the center axis.

When a friend and myself did a Traction we selected a body that was as good as we could find. Of course it had more rot after blasting than it looked at first but was not too bad. So we had two engine stands that were modified for use at each end for a rotissery. I cannot remember the details or find a picture either now. But I do remember when the sills were to be welded we carefully packed up the body level and checked for twist etc using straight pieces of wood across the body and measuring to the attachment points, for the rear suspension and the four front horn bolts and the front bulkhead. After you get the sill-boxes part welded the stiffness returns so you can rotate it to finish the welding.
Jaahn
 
Most workshops would never have used this jig as it is specialised to TA and would be a horribly expensive item. I drew it to your attention because the principles of the mounting points are worthwhile noting in order to prevent distortion of the hull and hence undesirable road holding characteristics.
 
jaahn said:
Hi :)
I do not believe I ever saw a big jig like that back in the old days. I hung around the car dealers in my area and knew a few mechanics and I never saw any shops of any brand with anything like that. Possibly you could just construct a base or center frame with say 4" square tube welded together like a chassie and then some 'brackets' to go to the mounting points that are solid. Careful measurement with a laser level would ensure the alignment is good. If you has some 'brackets' that extended up at the front and rear you could make it rotate on the center axis.

When a friend and myself did a Traction we selected a body that was as good as we could find. Of course it had more rot after blasting than it looked at first but was not too bad. So we had two engine stands that were modified for use at each end for a rotissery. I cannot remember the details or find a picture either now. But I do remember when the sills were to be welded we carefully packed up the body level and checked for twist etc using straight pieces of wood across the body and measuring to the attachment points, for the rear suspension and the four front horn bolts and the front bulkhead. After you get the sill-boxes part welded the stiffness returns so you can rotate it to finish the welding.
Jaahn
Click to expand...
Thanks Jaahn.
In hindsight, I probably should have bought the best one I could find. They're a little harder to find over here and I told myself that because of the nature of the project I'm doing (EV conversion vs restoration) it would be less "sacrilegious" to do this one. I'm rethinking that decision :cautious:

I'm drawing up a frame table now - with rotisserie mounts as you suggested.
 
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