Alright, so before I take my gearbox off for the third time (different reasons each time), I'm wondering if anyone can help point me in some direction.
It has a new clutch cable, new clutch/bearing/fork. The rivets holding the nylon bush on the fork broke the first time I drove it after replacing the clutch cable, and I have since drilled and tapped screws with loctite to hold it in place. That also taught me a lesson with BE1s - don't let tension off the fork, unless you have small hands like me that can squeeze into the bell housing to relocate the release bearing in-situ.
Over the course of about 2000kms I have had to tighten the clutch cable after every drive. When its cold everything feels pretty good. On the way home, the clutch bite seems to drop lower to the floor, only for me to compensate again by tightening the adjuster. The pedal is now about an inch higher than the brake pedal and I have run out of thread on the adjuster. Selecting reverse is getting downright embarrassing - I can feel the shaft is still spinning before I inevitably have to crunch it in.
It has a new clutch cable, new clutch/bearing/fork. The rivets holding the nylon bush on the fork broke the first time I drove it after replacing the clutch cable, and I have since drilled and tapped screws with loctite to hold it in place. That also taught me a lesson with BE1s - don't let tension off the fork, unless you have small hands like me that can squeeze into the bell housing to relocate the release bearing in-situ.
Over the course of about 2000kms I have had to tighten the clutch cable after every drive. When its cold everything feels pretty good. On the way home, the clutch bite seems to drop lower to the floor, only for me to compensate again by tightening the adjuster. The pedal is now about an inch higher than the brake pedal and I have run out of thread on the adjuster. Selecting reverse is getting downright embarrassing - I can feel the shaft is still spinning before I inevitably have to crunch it in.