Replacing 505 driveshaft outer boots

forumnoreason

forumnoreason

Well-known member
1000+ Posts
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Messages
3,224
Location
Ici.
I have acquired a 505 GR 81 model, nice car but a bit weathered, just noticed an outer driveshaft boot is worn, I found boots on Micksgarage just the boot and also on ebay with the metal sleeve. They appear to use the same gear as a 504. I am hoping someone can suggest what the best part option would be to get and are there tricks to getting boots off and on?

Cheers

Steven
 
To replace the complete boot with the metal can first using a chiesl and hammer un peen the end of the metal can , pull the goblet out of the can , the can will prevent the rollers coming off the triax , then you need to remove the tri ax from the shaft , they are held on by peening over the end of the shaft , so a chiesl and hammer or a fine grinder blade to remove peening . Remove tri ax inside the can with the boot .
Then fit new boot on shaft and carefully remove tri ax from old can and without losing rollers refit it on the shaft and use new can to retain rollers, peen shaft in a new place and add the new grease , then fit goblet into can and hammer end of can over the end of goblet.

OR , cut away all of the old rubber boot , add new grease and get local drive shaft shop to fit an expanded rubber boot over the outer joint , secure with hose clamp.
 
^ What he said.

John Palmer up here used to wind electrical tape around the tri ax, as he said it was really easy to have the rollers pop off otherwise. And the little roller bearings are REALLY hard to get back in after that. You have to put a fair few windings around and sacrifice a bit of tape.

The expanded rubber (actually I think it's neoprene) boot is universal and a good option.
 
I have a cheap (and nasty?) way of fixing split drive shaft boots.

1) Thoroughly clean the outside of the boot with brakleen
2) Baste the cracked area with Sika 310 polyurethane sealer/adhesive (black is suggested)
3) Bind the boot firmly in fibre glass plasterers tape:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/gyprock-easy-tape-90m-plasterboard-jointing-tape_p0731009

4) Cover the entire boot with sikaflex and "trowel" to smooth finish with a narrow spatula. Make sure it's worked into the mesh of the tape.

It's messy job , wear gloves and resist the urge to relieve yourself until finished, Siklaflex sticks to the skin most tenaciously :eek:
And having black smears on that part is hard to explain to the wife. The Sikaflex falls off after about 10 day.

Cover your work area with a drop sheet, best to have the wheels in air so you can rotate the drive shaft.

Turps is best for cleaning up and the least dangerous solvent.

I used this method a few times and never had a boot split for a second time.

I've never been knocked back on RWC, but I do ensure the boots are well covered in mud.
 
thanks for info guys, I like to keep things original but cost wise if it is appealing will suss out a mechanic chucking an expandable one on. I take it the shaft can be pulled out from the carrier by ldragging carrier outwards.
 
Yeah, you have to take off the rear caliper, then put a steel rod into the hole in the hub so it doesn't rotate, in order to undo the large centre nut, and then use that same hole to undo the four hidden bolts that keep on the hub. You will see them inside through that hole with a torch when you turn the disc. The bolts have 8mm allen key heads. Get an 8mm piece of straight allen key about 2 inches long, (chop it off an allen key with an angle grinder) and use a 1/2 inch drive 8mm socket to turn it. You'll need a bit of pipe to add length to your socket handle. :)

I use a 3/4 drive 36 mm socket and handle (with a bit of pipe as a lever on the end, till it's about 4 ft long) to undo the big nut on the end of the driveshaft, but I think it's actually 35 mm. But I guess a rattle gun will do the job.
Doing it up, it has to be tight, but I have seen them OVERtightened...
 
Beano said:
Yeah, you have to take off the rear caliper, then put a steel rod into the hole in the hub so it doesn't rotate, in order to undo the large centre nut, and then use that same hole to undo the four hidden bolts that keep on the hub. You will see them inside through that hole with a torch when you turn the disc. The bolts have 8mm allen key heads. Get an 8mm piece of straight allen key about 2 inches long, (chop it off an allen key with an angle grinder) and use a 1/2 inch drive 8mm socket to turn it. You'll need a bit of pipe to add length to your socket handle. :)

I use a 3/4 drive 36 mm socket and handle (with a bit of pipe as a lever on the end, till it's about 4 ft long) to undo the big nut on the end of the driveshaft, but I think it's actually 35 mm. But I guess a rattle gun will do the job.
Doing it up, it has to be tight, but I have seen them OVERtightened...
Click to expand...

IIRC you can remove the drive shaft with the disk attached.

Remove the caliper and suspend it to avoid placing stress on the hose

There are holes in the disk hub that allow a hex key to be inserted into the bearing retainer bolts. Remove 4? of them.

Do yourself a favor and cut up a key to make a nice long piece of hex stock. Then use a hex socket to turn it. Much easier than using a key along.

Once they are removed the disk, bearing pack , bearing retainer cover and drive shaft slide out as an assembly.

Just grab the disk and give it mighty heave to get things moving.

Very stubborn drive shafts come out with a slide hammer, attached to a piece of steel strip bolted between two wheel studs.

The less you pull off: the less you have to put back.
 
forumnoreason said:
thanks Rob, the less I have to do the better.
Click to expand...

Just check it out. There is a single hole in disk hub on the same PCD as the bolts. You undo the bolts one at time and rotate the disk to get at the next cap screw.

At least that's my memory from 35 odd years ago.

Let me know how you get on.
 
He has said that it is an outer driveshaft boot which is worn, so the disc and driveshaft will need to be separated.
 
So true, I was focusing on easiest way to get the assembly out of the vehicle.

Agreed it easier to get disk off with the drive shaft in the car.
 
So true, I was focusing on easiest way to get the assembly out of the vehicle.

Agreed it easier to get disk off with the drive shaft in the car.
 
Since you are doing an outer boot you will have to undo the big nut on end of shaft .
Its much easier to do so with the hub/ shaft still in car , so undo the 36mm nut on end of drive shaft before removeing the brake pads , get a helper to pull on hand brake and foot on brake pedal , motor running for brake booster.
If it really tight you may need to imobilise the shaft with either an alloy wheel that will allow the socket to pass through the wheel , or a long bar bolted to two wheel studs.
Buy a long 1/2 drive 8mm allen key socket.
 
To immobilize the rear disc, I just stuff a metal rod through the hole. Something like an old punch or a piece of tool steel of some sort.
It snags on the hub and prevents turning. Never had a problem. :confused:
 
Are we sure that there is clearance enough in the housing for those expanded rubber "Neoprene" boots to be fitted? Looks fairly tight on clearance to me. :)

Also it is easy to remove those big nuts with a cold chisel and a 1.75 lb hammer!!!
 
BIGRR said:
Are we sure that there is clearance enough in the housing for those expanded rubber "Neoprene" boots to be fitted? Looks fairly tight on clearance to me. :)

Also it is easy to remove those big nuts with a cold chisel and a 1.75 lb hammer!!!
Click to expand...



I have used the expandable boots and there is no problem with clearance.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top