All I'm hearing are excuses.... Although I applaud and approve of the silliness of all the Sport kit on a 3 pot Clio
Renault Megane GT220
- Thread starter COL
- Start date
All I'm hearing are excuses.... Although I applaud and approve of the silliness of all the Sport kit on a 3 pot Clio
I have my first minor issue with the GT220, the drivers door lock seems to have an intermittent fault. It unlocks ok sometimes but not others. Does it both on proximity and by using the buttons on the remote. Did a bit of Googling and it seems to be a common problem.
I'm guessing it is similar to my Laguna's door lock and has a small electric motor in there that is jamming up sometimes. Will have to take the door card off and have look sometime in the near future.
I'm guessing it is similar to my Laguna's door lock and has a small electric motor in there that is jamming up sometimes. Will have to take the door card off and have look sometime in the near future.
Now that would be boring.
The gt220 is a great car... Although I came close to buying one, never quite got over the line for reasons. From behind the wheel I felt the hatch drove better. The wagon felt a little loose or bouncy at the rear. Sad we don't get warm hatches/small wagons anymore.
I thought the engine was the best bit. Gruff and a little old school in its power delivery. Plenty for the car.
I thought the engine was the best bit. Gruff and a little old school in its power delivery. Plenty for the car.
The wagon is 266 mm longer than the hatch and weighs 65 Kg more so that would effect the handling, and the extra mass is behind the rear wheels.
yeah the auto lock, unlock is a very common fault. I changed the sensor under the handle and the latch itself as the solenoid goes on it. Youtube helped with this as there's a trick to getting the door handle off
I have had the GT220 for about six weeks now, and have enjoyed driving it very much (love the power and the handling), It usually gets used at weekends and I have done about 1200 Km.
I have replaced the windscreen wipers as the drivers side wiper was not wiping the windscreen very well.
The rear speakers seem to have a problem where they sound distorted so will most likely have to change them with better quality speakers. I have turned them off and just running on the front speakers. I have been thinking about upgrading the entertainment system.
Also noticed a rattle in the front suspension which I think is the drop links because when I go over speed humps both wheels hitting the speed hump at the same time there is no noise but when only one wheel at a time goes over speed hump I can here a rattle. I have not yet got underneath to check the drop links but will do so in the near future.
I also had the "Stop" and "Battery" lights come on today for about 5 seconds and then go off, so the alternator maybe suffering the typical Valeo problem of worn slip rings and brushes. Will keep my eye on it to see if it happens again.
The is also a rattle behind the dash which comes and goes, the previous owner told me it was the brake pedal, will get under the dash and have a look at this at some stage as well.
These are just minor issues and to be expected on a car that is 7 years old with 133,000 Km on the Odometer.
I have replaced the windscreen wipers as the drivers side wiper was not wiping the windscreen very well.
The rear speakers seem to have a problem where they sound distorted so will most likely have to change them with better quality speakers. I have turned them off and just running on the front speakers. I have been thinking about upgrading the entertainment system.
Also noticed a rattle in the front suspension which I think is the drop links because when I go over speed humps both wheels hitting the speed hump at the same time there is no noise but when only one wheel at a time goes over speed hump I can here a rattle. I have not yet got underneath to check the drop links but will do so in the near future.
I also had the "Stop" and "Battery" lights come on today for about 5 seconds and then go off, so the alternator maybe suffering the typical Valeo problem of worn slip rings and brushes. Will keep my eye on it to see if it happens again.
The is also a rattle behind the dash which comes and goes, the previous owner told me it was the brake pedal, will get under the dash and have a look at this at some stage as well.
These are just minor issues and to be expected on a car that is 7 years old with 133,000 Km on the Odometer.
I have had the Megane GT220 for 4 months now, I really enjoy driving the car, love the power and the handling. But there is a few things that I don't like about the GT220 and this most likely goes for all the Megane Mk3's
#1
I don't like the added red and white dashes below and above the numbers on the tacho and speedo. It is just clutter and unnecessary and I find it makes the instrument harder to read.
#2
Rear vision is bloody terrible, the D pillars are huge and the back window is tiny. I thought my Laguna ii was bad but this is at a whole different level. I can see why distance sensors and reversing cameras have become popular in modern cars. Seams that style take precedence over rear vision. I'm sure that the Megane is not the only car that suffers this problem.
Just on the post above #28 I haven't addressed any of the issues above as yet.
The battery light has not come on again so take that as a good sign.
The door lock issue that I mentioned in post #22 may of just been me, if I pull on the door handle twice the car opens up ok. I have watched a few YouTube videos where I have seen the presenter pulling on the door handle twice to gain entry to the car.
#1
I don't like the added red and white dashes below and above the numbers on the tacho and speedo. It is just clutter and unnecessary and I find it makes the instrument harder to read.
#2
Rear vision is bloody terrible, the D pillars are huge and the back window is tiny. I thought my Laguna ii was bad but this is at a whole different level. I can see why distance sensors and reversing cameras have become popular in modern cars. Seams that style take precedence over rear vision. I'm sure that the Megane is not the only car that suffers this problem.
Just on the post above #28 I haven't addressed any of the issues above as yet.
The battery light has not come on again so take that as a good sign.
The door lock issue that I mentioned in post #22 may of just been me, if I pull on the door handle twice the car opens up ok. I have watched a few YouTube videos where I have seen the presenter pulling on the door handle twice to gain entry to the car.
The brake pedal rattle issue mentioned in post #28, a few weekends ago I had a bit of a play with this and came up with a solution that seems to have got rid of most of the brake pedal rattle. What I did was find a compression spring and cut it down until it fitted to stop the brake pedal clevis from rattling around. There is a bit of a complicated linkage setup with the right hand drive cars as the master cylinder and booster is still on the left side of the car.
You can see in the photo the yellow clevis pin which doubles as a shear pin, to the left is the brake pedal and to the right is the accelerator pedal.
You can see in the photo the yellow clevis pin which doubles as a shear pin, to the left is the brake pedal and to the right is the accelerator pedal.
Today I got around to looking at the rattle coming from the front suspension which I mentioned in post #28.
I removed the drop links from both sides and went for a drive around the local roads, the noise is still there so it looks like it is the top strut mount and or bearings where the noise is coming from. It only happens on high frequency bumps. So will order some replacement parts and report back when I have replaced the top mounts and bearings.
Here is a YouTube video that describes the problem and gives a great guide to replacing these items:
I removed the drop links from both sides and went for a drive around the local roads, the noise is still there so it looks like it is the top strut mount and or bearings where the noise is coming from. It only happens on high frequency bumps. So will order some replacement parts and report back when I have replaced the top mounts and bearings.
Here is a YouTube video that describes the problem and gives a great guide to replacing these items:
My 265 has just started having the drivers door not auto unlocking correctly. Pull the handle twice and it opens though. Since it doesn't get driven much I'm not in a hurry to pull things apart.
Cheers
Justin
Cheers
Justin
I did an oil and filter change on the Megane today.
Pretty straight forward except I found the oil filter was a little awkward to get at.
Also resetting the service light is a two stage affair and took a little figuring out.
Its always the way the first time when you do a job it takes a little longer, so should be easy next time.
Pretty straight forward except I found the oil filter was a little awkward to get at.
Also resetting the service light is a two stage affair and took a little figuring out.
Its always the way the first time when you do a job it takes a little longer, so should be easy next time.
How's your door lock going Col ? Mine 'failed to proceed' the other day and forced me to get in the passengers door. Of course it opens straight up using the internal door handle after it's been locked.
Cheers
Justin
Cheers
Justin
The door lock is fine, I think it was just me, I pull twice on the handle and it opens fine. The owners manual did not really say that. I noticed watch some you tube videos that others were pulling twice on the door handle to unlock the car.
I've ended up just fixing the Red Bull and put a pause on doing a clone RS 265 wagon for now, well until I do the VIV on the 5th next month and see how that goes.
Back to the auto door lock, The red bull stopped working a few weeks ago and since I got a new stash of 265 parts with a door included i thought id do a quick change over. Quick tip, if your parts door has the window wound down, dont try and hook up a battery to it, just unscrew the motor and you can then push the window back up. After taking all the bits out I didnt even need the actuator as it was the sensor for the door handle. Easier fix than having to do the actuator as well. My next prob now is the passenger side auto open on the GT 220 wasnt working last week
Back to the auto door lock, The red bull stopped working a few weeks ago and since I got a new stash of 265 parts with a door included i thought id do a quick change over. Quick tip, if your parts door has the window wound down, dont try and hook up a battery to it, just unscrew the motor and you can then push the window back up. After taking all the bits out I didnt even need the actuator as it was the sensor for the door handle. Easier fix than having to do the actuator as well. My next prob now is the passenger side auto open on the GT 220 wasnt working last week
Yesterday I finally got around to changing the top bearing on the strut towers.
You need to pull off everythin under the windscreen to get access to the third top strut tower bolt.
Brake line and ABS sensor disconnected.
Strut removed.
My Heath Robinson spring compressor so that the top strut nut can be removed.
The strut back together with the new bearing and top hat.
When I did the right side I tried a different method to compress the spring which worked a little better.
Another view of the right strut tower spring bveing compressed
When I inspected the old top mounts I could not fine anything really wrong with them, they just look 2nd hand, so was not holding out much hope that the front end rattle was fixed.
You need to pull off everythin under the windscreen to get access to the third top strut tower bolt.
Brake line and ABS sensor disconnected.
Strut removed.
My Heath Robinson spring compressor so that the top strut nut can be removed.
The strut back together with the new bearing and top hat.
When I did the right side I tried a different method to compress the spring which worked a little better.
Another view of the right strut tower spring bveing compressed
When I inspected the old top mounts I could not fine anything really wrong with them, they just look 2nd hand, so was not holding out much hope that the front end rattle was fixed.
Following on from the post above I took the Megane for a little test drive over the local rough roads and guess what the rattle was still there, which did not really surprise me.
Anyway after a little drive and trying various things I found the rattle was not there under brakes so thought maybe ball joints!! anyway back home I go and off with the passenger side wheel.
Had a look at the ball joint and the pivot bushes and anything else that moves and decided that all looked OK. Then started thumping on the strut tower with my hand to try and simulate the rattle, low and behold I could hear the metallic rattling sound but could not tell where its coming from. Then remembered that it was not happening under brakes. Gave the outer brake pad a wiggle all fine there, so wiggled the inner brake pad and there was that rattling sound.
So out with the tool and remove the brake calipe rand the inner brake pad falls out.
On the back of the inner brake pad is and anti-vibration spring that sits inside the caliper piston, so a bit of judicious tweaking of the spring was done.
Inner brake pad slotted into the brake caliper and fitting snugly in there.
Re-assembled everything and decided while I was at it I would do the right side as most likely this was also rattling in symphony with the left.
After the car was back on four wheels went for a test drive, was actually a pleasure to drive on rough roads with no metallic rattling.
Looks like I never needed to change the strut tower top bearing and hat so lost a few hours and about $100 in spare parts, but lets look on the bright side I have a quiet car and some good 2nd hand parts.
Anyway after a little drive and trying various things I found the rattle was not there under brakes so thought maybe ball joints!! anyway back home I go and off with the passenger side wheel.
Had a look at the ball joint and the pivot bushes and anything else that moves and decided that all looked OK. Then started thumping on the strut tower with my hand to try and simulate the rattle, low and behold I could hear the metallic rattling sound but could not tell where its coming from. Then remembered that it was not happening under brakes. Gave the outer brake pad a wiggle all fine there, so wiggled the inner brake pad and there was that rattling sound.
So out with the tool and remove the brake calipe rand the inner brake pad falls out.
On the back of the inner brake pad is and anti-vibration spring that sits inside the caliper piston, so a bit of judicious tweaking of the spring was done.
Inner brake pad slotted into the brake caliper and fitting snugly in there.
Re-assembled everything and decided while I was at it I would do the right side as most likely this was also rattling in symphony with the left.
After the car was back on four wheels went for a test drive, was actually a pleasure to drive on rough roads with no metallic rattling.
Looks like I never needed to change the strut tower top bearing and hat so lost a few hours and about $100 in spare parts, but lets look on the bright side I have a quiet car and some good 2nd hand parts.