R8/R10 Master Cylinder change.

Well after fighting the main brake fluid feed line off the Master Cylinder (1 1/2hours!!!) then those two little sucker of bolts and nuts!! I got the MC out. Couldn't for the life of me get it apart (seized in) so down to our friendly PBR at Holden Hill and they blew it out 300psi or thereabouts. Good news is the MC had a beautiful as new BRASS inner sleeve so new kit and it's already to put back again.
Just got to get the actuating rod out and check the gap (0.020")
Those guys at PBR are so helpful, even got me a brand new brake stop switch with a special adaptor for the thread. So brakes are now all done sitting in a box ready for installation at a later date.
Cheers
Phil
 
Good to hear. It's so good to deal with helpful professionals. I've had the same experience in the past with Power Brakes in Adelaide and others in Perth on resleeving MCs and getting new hoses made while I waited. Don't mess with anything but what you know is a new hose is my suggestion, and I've learned the hard way.... I've had short life problems with Argentinian ones cracking in less than two years too.

Closely related given the audience of this thread, so not a hijack I hope, I just adjusted the (drum) brakes on the 4CV, since the pedal slack had gone perhaps 1/4 of the way down since I finished the spider wheel Dauphine conversion a bit over a year ago. Clearly the new liners had bedded in. So, jack it up, adjust brakes carefully.... The adjusters hardly moved before the shoes were rubbing lightly but the pedal has come right back up. I have a 22 mm MC but the larger diameter front cylinders and the system is super sensitiveto adjustment. I'm so pleased with the brakes on both the 4CV and the R8, at long last. It's all in the detail.

Hope it all ends up much the same with yours Phil.
 
Thanks John.
Managed to get the MC back in today. Not sure if I'm happy with the piston actuating rod adjustment!
The book says 0.020" play, it has heaps more and the pedal inside the car moves 1" before you feel the rod contacting the piston.
Might take it out again and lengthen the rod.
I left the setting on the rod as it was when I took it out but there are many things on 'BARNIE' that were not up to book standards!
Cheers
Phil
 
I was caught that way once, Phil. There are two different pushrod lengths for two different piston designs. I remember years ago having to make a spacer from a bolt to take up the slack when I bought a new master cylinder, as I didn't know and the Renault dealer in central Adelaide didn't seem to either! You'll have awful brakes unless you get the clearance down to a small number of mm at the pedal.

You always inherit a mish-mash with modified cars, don't you!

Cheers
 
well golly gee some things never change - I just made a post on this forum about the abovementioned horror! I've already removed the four calipers and sourced new rubbers and O-rings. new toys for the workshop include a sandblasting cabinet and a parts washing cabinet, so the calipers will look as new in no time. Any advice on how to proceed down the master cylinder (seized - who wooda guessed) road - dual circuit replacement? I had a wtf moment while mucking around with the mobile workshop jack and trying to get the car as far enough off the floor to get the mc out - with bricks being added under the main crossmember there was a moment when the front of the car came off the ground, luckily in a gentle way!
there is a big cheque coming my way from a Will, when that happens I will definitely be getting a hoist - got some other stuff to do in/around the workshop before that happens but it should be in by the end of the year. putting the wheels back on the car really helps while I'm working on the mc and calipers. nearly forgot - what to do about the discs? they look awful and obviously need neatening up - professional skimming or on a mates lathe?
cheers for now,

BP
 
how time flies - the hoist is now up and is a delight - it took me 3 hours of swearing and screaming and losing blood from my knuckles to get the mc out when the car was not too far off the ground. with the car on the hoist, I stepped under and 5 seconds later the mc was sitting on the bolts. although I agree with other comments, the adjustment of the pushrod looks like being difficult, even with the hoist...

the calipers are the next job, followed by the suspension rebuild - at the moment I am being bamboozled by trying to make sure the list of parts I need are actually correct for the R1190 R10 - does anyone have a link for part number manuals?

cheers,

BP
 
boleropilot said:
how time flies - the hoist is now up and is a delight - it took me 3 hours of swearing and screaming and losing blood from my knuckles to get the mc out when the car was not too far off the ground. with the car on the hoist, I stepped under and 5 seconds later the mc was sitting on the bolts. although I agree with other comments, the adjustment of the pushrod looks like being difficult, even with the hoist...

the calipers are the next job, followed by the suspension rebuild - at the moment I am being bamboozled by trying to make sure the list of parts I need are actually correct for the R1190 R10 - does anyone have a link for part number manuals?

cheers,

BP
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I suggest you set up the MC pushrod clearance on the hoist before you rebuild the MC with new seals etc and before you attach the pipes. Fit the piston and spring, and circlip, and bolt it in. You can easily feel the free play. Take it out, swing down the push rod and adjust it a bit then refit. Repeat until correct. It's fairly quick and easy that way, and then when you reseal it and bolt on all the hydraulics, the clearance WILL be correct. The minimum clearance gives a nice high pedal. It only took me 30 years or so to work this out.

There is more than one MC pushrod length, with about a 6 mm difference in length for the different pistons. I won't be the only person to say that Power Brakes in Adelaide are totally competent and can supply the correct seals. They are NOT metric but Imperial sizes, even though expressed in mm.

I have the parts manuals. Perhaps you'd better PM me with an email address and then I can scan the correct pages for you. Which parts are you talking about? Easier by email I'd suggest.
 
Forgot, you need to be super-careful with the grooves that the 'o' rings fit into on the callipers. SUPER careful. They corrode at the back.

Measure the discs' thicknesses. With all this work, why not stop mucking about and just buy new ones? Fronts wear much more than rears of course.
 
I saw Phil's old R8 on FB recently and now I'm seeing one of his posts pop up. I'm sure he's looking down with delight. Does anyone know what happened with his rally car resto? Did someone finish it?
 
J-man said:
I saw Phil's old R8 on FB recently and now I'm seeing one of his posts pop up. I'm sure he's looking down with delight. Does anyone know what happened with his rally car resto? Did someone finish it?
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I heard it was to be finished but don't know more. The folk in Club Automobile Francaise should know. Best wishes for the Festive Season and 2021.
 
G'day All, thanks for the advice and offers, current state of affairs is as follows - most of front suspension components now off and I am waiting for a little $500 box of bits from AVP in France. Had a little encounter of the unpleasant kind with a malignant melanoma, currently I look like a bloke who took a water pistol to a knife fight...as such I'm a bit limited to what I can move, lift or shove, so I'm just tinkering.

Had to scrounge some spring compressors from my BFF Rob, who also happened to have a copy of the P.R.832 parts manual for the R10 - what a fantastic book! I was so impressed with it I decided to check eBay to see if I could get a copy - sure did! Ended up paying $80AUD for it posted but it is such a brilliant help in identifying parts, the drawings in it are far better and more comprehensive than my workshop manual. I somehow ended up with two copies of the wksp manual so if someone needs one it's yours for the postage.

I've had a browse here for info on shock absorbers for the 10 but no luck, looking forward to any advice youse guys might have for me.

Cheers for now,

BP
 
boleropilot said:
G'day All, thanks for the advice and offers, current state of affairs is as follows - most of front suspension components now off and I am waiting for a little $500 box of bits from AVP in France. Had a little encounter of the unpleasant kind with a malignant melanoma, currently I look like a bloke who took a water pistol to a knife fight...as such I'm a bit limited to what I can move, lift or shove, so I'm just tinkering.

Had to scrounge some spring compressors from my BFF Rob, who also happened to have a copy of the P.R.832 parts manual for the R10 - what a fantastic book! I was so impressed with it I decided to check eBay to see if I could get a copy - sure did! Ended up paying $80AUD for it posted but it is such a brilliant help in identifying parts, the drawings in it are far better and more comprehensive than my workshop manual. I somehow ended up with two copies of the wksp manual so if someone needs one it's yours for the postage.

I've had a browse here for info on shock absorbers for the 10 but no luck, looking forward to any advice youse guys might have for me.

Cheers for now,

BP
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Best of luck with the skin!!! I've had various other ones but never the really nasty type that they get knife-happy about.

I'd buy a parts book for double that money without blinking. They are brilliant. Renault must have had a big drawing office! Every owner should have one to complement the workshop manual. Just realised, Boonah, only one Rob there who knows his way around these things. :)

Re shockers, personally I've always just spent the money and bought a set of Konis and stopped messing around. I've had them on the R8 for ever (1975 for the rears I think) and they just work and work well just about forever. The Australian agents used to stock them. Non-Koni R10 shockers appear on Ebay but all the French suppliers have them.
 
Peter J Kent said:
I found a set of Toyota torago front shocks were the right length for r10 rear, I had to narrow the eyes and replace the eye bushes with 10mm bolt size ones from a suspension shop
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How did they feel on the road Peter?
 
Re. the comment that Mini Minor rear shocks could work on the front of an R8/10 - I found a pair for sale on eBay - they measured them for me and came back with: compressed 300mm / extended 445mm / diameter 42mm
 
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