R8 Gordini on Shannons

I have never had to top coat POR 15. If you follow the process strictly it should work out alright without a topcoat. Treated the chassis on my A110 and Fuego Turbo and both are still good except if you get brake fluid on it like what happened to the left hand lower control arm of my A110. Brake fluid is dynamite even with POR 15.

I would cover anything under the chassis in some of that bitumen coat they sell (over the POR15) simply because stones and other hard debris chip anything that is not soft.
 
I have never had to top coat POR 15. If you follow the process strictly it should work out alright without a topcoat. Treated the chassis on my A110 and Fuego Turbo and both are still good except if you get brake fluid on it like what happened to the left hand lower control arm of my A110. Brake fluid is dynamite even with POR 15.
thanks Barry, like I said my stuff up,thought I followed instructions OK but obviously something went wrong, next time should be better...... Jim
 
What is so expensive in fixing these? I mean compared to other cars.

Two things; lack of genuine spare parts, meaning people can charge what they like for substitutes and the fact that the knowledge regarding their maintenance is receding rapidly.
 
What is so expensive in fixing these? I mean compared to other cars.
I don’t think they are any more expensive than anything else to restore, and cheaper than many other makes, say Alfa Romeo, only that the starting price for a complete non runner, is not a few thousand like a standard R8.

I am assisting my brother to restore Mk1 Ford Escort into a RS2000 replica. With a lot of work being done at home it looks like it will end up owing $32-35K, starting with a $5K car. An original could well sell for $80K, particularly in the UK.
 
Okay, so what is the expensive part of that? I mean you start with a 5k car and then spend another 30k on what?
The expensive part? There is no expensive part, nor is there any inexpensive part. Things cost what they cost. It’s all relative.
Most people who have specialized skills and the ability to produce good results when doing specialist jobs (panel, paint, engineering, trimming, building motors, gearboxes, setting up suspension, wiring, assembly) aren’t going to work for nothing.
Parts don’t grow on trees either, and if they did the trees would still be over the other side of the world so you’d need to pay a “part picker” to pick your part from a part tree, and mail it to Australia.
 
The difference would mostly be what you can and cannot do yourself. I try and do everything other than upholstery. Not always as successfully as a professional for sure. If the car will sell for a lot due to rarity then I guess one would be prepared to spend more on professional help. My cars will not be concourse quality. If that is what you want then you pay for it and that can cost $50 - 80,000 I guess. But my hobby is working on the cars myself not trailering them around a lot of professionals. Or even paying a tilt bed trucker to even do that much. Then taking the kudos for restoring a car that they haven't laid a spanner on. True restorers are those that take a rusty heap of metal and by their own hand turn it into a show room finished car themselves. Some even to the extent of building the engine and body from scratch. If you want to see true restorers check out the many sites on the internet. This is but one. https://www.facebook.com/groups/867119580122571/?multi_permalinks=1798655300302323
Might have to scroll down a bit but complete Gull wing Mercs, Jaguar XK 150 etc almost from scratch. I guess even home built could cost that much for these cars.
 
The difference would mostly be what you can and cannot do yourself. I try and do everything other than upholstery. Not always as successfully as a professional for sure. If the car will sell for a lot due to rarity then I guess one would be prepared to spend more on professional help. My cars will not be concourse quality. If that is what you want then you pay for it and that can cost $50 - 80,000 I guess. But my hobby is working on the cars myself not trailering them around a lot of professionals. Or even paying a tilt bed trucker to even do that much. Then taking the kudos for restoring a car that they haven't laid a spanner on. True restorers are those that take a rusty heap of metal and by their own hand turn it into a show room finished car themselves. Some even to the extent of building the engine and body from scratch. If you want to see true restorers check out the many sites on the internet. This is but one. https://www.facebook.com/groups/867119580122571/?multi_permalinks=1798655300302323
Might have to scroll down a bit but complete Gull wing Mercs, Jaguar XK 150 etc almost from scratch. I guess even home built could cost that much for these cars.

My thoughts exactly. Huge dollars to be saved doing bodywork yourself etc. 30-40k at the panelbeaters might be worth it for an 8 Gordini but for less desirable cars it's pretty hard to justify. Even if a pro could have done a better job it takes away from the satisfaction of learning skills on your own car.
 
It's all up to the individual. If you like doing everything yourself and want to learn bodywork, mechanicals, electrical and trimming then go for it and enjoy yourself. Your car will never be as good as a proffessional resto but it's your car go ahead.
As for me, I want my 8G finished so I can enjoy it, I know that no matter how good I do the body it wouldn't be as good as a pro and I come from a panel beating back ground. So, I pay to get it done quickly and properly, same with the electrics and other things I'm not confident it.
I have a 403 that owes me over 20k and cost me $1200.
The 8G, being what it is and totally irreplaceable needs to be as good as when Bob Watson and his team finished it in 1970 so it is what it is.
Expensive yes. Value for money 100%
 
I have been restoring an 8G for a lot longer than many of you have been on the planet.
Life, work and play seem to get in the way.
So close I can see light at the end of the tunnel.
BUT. It is too good.
Might win a few trophies at club concourse events.
Then what do I do with it?
I'll be too apprehensive to drive it anywhere.
Let alone DRIVE it like a G should.
 
That is a big problem. You drive it and done day you find it in the parking lot with a big scratch along the entire side on your perfect panel work and expensive paint job. Nah. I want a car I can drive like a normal car everywhere I go.

But I don't agree with not being able to do most things yourself. Panel and paint work is not my cup of tea, I suck at it big time, but anything else I can do if I put my mind to it (and have the time) and it will probably be better than any professional would do it (for sane money).

But as far as cost is concerned, look at Bad Obsession guys, how much are they in with that Mini? Nobody knows, but I don't think they would be in more than 30k pounds and look at the job they did. If they were to outsource that, it would be nowhere near and it would have cost a Veyron to do.
 
Okay, so what is the expensive part of that? I mean you start with a 5k car and then spend another 30k on what?
I was doing the rust one day a month and it was taking too long. Took it to a guy I know that works at $65/hr including all metal, gas and abrasives. He fitted the new front guards and front panel and two sills and lots of other rust areas. Came to $8K + new panels were 2K. Council are not happy about me painting at home. Paint and bodywork inside and out is going to be $8K. To build up a hot 2L Pinto with 45DCOEs will be $4500. So we are now at $27.5K without suspension, brakes, wheels and interior. It adds up very quickly.
 
I was doing the rust one day a month and it was taking too long. Took it to a guy I know that works at $65/hr including all metal, gas and abrasives. He fitted the new front guards and front panel and two sills and lots of other rust areas. Came to $8K + new panels were 2K. Council are not happy about me painting at home. Paint and bodywork inside and out is going to be $8K. To build up a hot 2L Pinto with 45DCOEs will be $4500. So we are now at $27.5K without suspension, brakes, wheels and interior. It adds up very quickly.
Then there's another few grand on bull shit bits like rubbers and chrome.
 
That was one of my questions regarding the ongoing auctions. How would someone outside the locked down state of Victoria go about bidding/buying for this or any auction interstate.? It would be all too hard. Or all too risky to buy virtually sight unseen. And does Dan allow anyone to take a vehicle out of the state.? Or if the auction was in Sydney would a Victorian be prepared to risk it.? If I was thinking of selling at auction I'm pretty sure I'd wait a few months so the potential buyer pool was maximised.
 
I was thinking more of the issues with pre-purchase inspection etc. Pretty sure I wouldn't outlay $10K with out a good look, let alone $40K or more...
 
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