R17 Electric Windows

Yeah, crusty french electricals 50something years old, what do you expect. I am willing to bet this is a contributing factor to all the pinions cracking as well. Replace the wiring, lube the mechanism, clean contacts and motor comm, make sure the window can travel smoothly in the rails and it will work well.
 
The way r17 electric windows are set up electrically is asking for trouble. The switches can’t handle the amount of current they need to and the wiring run is too long from the switches to the door. Best way to sort that side of things is to install new relays (you’ll need 2x 5 pin relays per window) and update the wiring.
 
angru said:
The way r17 electric windows are set up electrically is asking for trouble. The switches can’t handle the amount of current they need to and the wiring run is too long from the switches to the door. Best way to sort that side of things is to install new relays (you’ll need 2x 5 pin relays per window) and update the wiring.
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Not touching it.........

Ray
 
angru said:
The way r17 electric windows are set up electrically is asking for trouble. The switches can’t handle the amount of current they need to and the wiring run is too long from the switches to the door. Best way to sort that side of things is to install new relays (you’ll need 2x 5 pin relays per window) and update the wiring.
Click to expand...
I agree. Unfortunately this is how pretty much all the electrics are because of manufacturing cost.
 
My 17TS had relays on the PCB for the windows. I found that the temperature overload switch on the motor gave trouble. It was there to stop the motor if you didn't remove your finger from the switch when the window was either fully closed or open. I shorted them out and just remembered to take my finger off the switch.
 
That is very interesting. I have never looked the system on the G but the TL didn't have any of that. I assumed the motor would just stop at the end of travel the same way the wipers do.
 
Sunroof said:
My 17TS had relays on the PCB for the windows. I found that the temperature overload switch on the motor gave trouble. It was there to stop the motor if you didn't remove your finger from the switch when the window was either fully closed or open. I shorted them out and just remembered to take my finger off the switch.
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PCB? Relays? Never seen that in a r17 window setup. You sure it was factory?
 
I'll check my circuit but I haven't played with 17TS for more than 12 years so who knows what memory does at my age.
 
Acording to Haynes Manual there is a relay called "Window winding relay. No.28" it is on the PCB shown as No. 4. Note there is only one. It operates as soon as the key is turned on and supplies voltage to the "Window winding switches". Doing it that way saves the cost of another relay.
 
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