I would like some advice/suggestions as to best source of parts, eg gasket sets, rings, piston,liner kits etc. local or overseas.
R1190 1969 R10.
R1190 1969 R10.
R10 MOTOR REBUILD
- Thread starter Bowlesie
- Start date
Mecaparts is good, https://www.mecaparts.com, or there is a friendly forum chap @jyl whom is in the parts industry and may be able to help.
Is it the original engine?
Is it the original engine?
Quite sure it is original motor. Been idle for a decade or two or three.
Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the tips.
www.piecesalpinea110.com is jyl's website
Thanks R8RX, I see this site gives you an english option, whereas mecapart appears to be only french. Might have to brush up the highschool french.
Is that all? Give it some Aerostart and some fresh oil if you're feeling generous and it will be fine. One of the most indestructible engines ever made.
I think it's worth a shot. What have you got to lose?
I would suggest you take plugs out, give it a good squirt of WD40 down the hole, spin it by hand a few times to make sure it's all good to go, maybe inspect valve clearance and other things under the rocker cover (also a good time to see if any oil is coming out at the top end as you spin it by hand), fresh oil, maybe a new filter and then go for it. All this only to make sure nothing that wasn't destroyed already is going to be destroyed in a failed starting attempt. New plugs can't hurt.
And I would only try to start it with aerostart or similar at first. No point going through the fuel system if it's not willing to go. If it starts on aerostart I would do the fuel system then.
I would suggest you take plugs out, give it a good squirt of WD40 down the hole, spin it by hand a few times to make sure it's all good to go, maybe inspect valve clearance and other things under the rocker cover (also a good time to see if any oil is coming out at the top end as you spin it by hand), fresh oil, maybe a new filter and then go for it. All this only to make sure nothing that wasn't destroyed already is going to be destroyed in a failed starting attempt. New plugs can't hurt.
And I would only try to start it with aerostart or similar at first. No point going through the fuel system if it's not willing to go. If it starts on aerostart I would do the fuel system then.
0419655667
I disagree on getting stale sitting motors to start just because they will. Any engine that has sat for years will have rust all over the rocker gear and sump that will mobilise and go through all the bearings. Take time to clean the rocker gear rocker cover sump and timing chain cover before starting
I disagree on getting stale sitting motors to start just because they will. Any engine that has sat for years will have rust all over the rocker gear and sump that will mobilise and go through all the bearings. Take time to clean the rocker gear rocker cover sump and timing chain cover before starting
That's why I suggested an inspection of the top end. If that is oily, you can bet the bottom is too.
Thanks guys for your advice but as it transpired the motor was siezed, piston corroded and stuck in the liner, no amount of WD40 would have shifted it, so I have totally disassembled it.
Apart from one now broken piston the rest of the motor appears fine. Now I either do a full piston /cylinder liner upgrade or just replace the one piston and myriad gaskets,rings etc.
Apart from one now broken piston the rest of the motor appears fine. Now I either do a full piston /cylinder liner upgrade or just replace the one piston and myriad gaskets,rings etc.
Bummer.
I guess then it depends what you want to do with the car. A full rebuild will go into serious money.
How's the crankshaft and the camshaft? If all good and the block is not distorted and the liner seats are in good order, then you may get away with a liner and piston kit.
I guess then it depends what you want to do with the car. A full rebuild will go into serious money.
How's the crankshaft and the camshaft? If all good and the block is not distorted and the liner seats are in good order, then you may get away with a liner and piston kit.
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That thing must have sat with the rocker cover off. I have here the old engine off my 205GTI and it has sat outside for 5 years and it is still oily under the rocker cover. Go to any wrecker and find a car that has not been touched for years and take the rocker cover off. It'll be oily. If the water seals at the bottom of a Sierra engine are not disturbed (do not leak), there is no way water can get to the sump so crankshafts can survive decades without problems too.
Yes, the crank and cam shafts seem fine and top end as well. Confident that its a goer with a bit of work once I get some bits. Obviously will cost a few dollars.
Several of the French suppliers' sites have "upgraded" recently. All are now much harder to use!!
Parts are also available from Melun Retro Passion, Bretagne Auto Retro and Ichard, all in France and all used satisfactorily by many of us. So parts are easy to find if a bit expensive for postage. Typically they arrive in 1-2 weeks in Perth - can't say for Tatura......
The protrusion of the sleeves above the block face is absolutely critical. The sleeve kit should come with a set of special paper seals for the base, in three different thicknesses colour coded. You'd not want to leave the old crankshaft seal of course. I'd not forget the timing chain and tensioner - all are available. You might even find bearings in Oz - my crankshaft was perfect when last on a bench (1988) and I still have full oil pressure at 360,000 km. The most common cause of high mileage failure is the top ring breaking and getting past the top of the piston - lots of little square imprints in the head face!
Good luck.
Hi
Just for a conversation about starting these old motors after sitting for quite a while. The motors are rugged and reliable BUT it has been my limited experience that if the top of the bores has a bit of rust and you just crank them you will break the top ring land and let the ring pieces out to wreak havoc. Possibly the same problem JohnW talked about.
A much better idea is to put oil down the plug holes and gently hand turn the motor and reverse turn it also if a bit tight. Do not do more than that till it is free and no tight spots. Better to look a bit more first though if you want a good motor for the long haul. Clean shiny and oiled is always a good starting place for mechanical bits.
As said the correct sleeve protusion is crucial for sealing and easy to get right, but not so well known by people who are not familiar with motors that have sleeves.
Good luck Jaahn
I would trawl ebay, you never know what you find. Last I have seen piston liner kits they were cheaper from the US of all places where there seems to be some NOS Renault parts sloshing about probably because they never sold that many and owners just threw the cars away instead of repairing them.