peugeot 403 water pump

pug407

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Fellow Frogger
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sydney
I have taken the 403 water pump off as the bearing is make noise .
it is a late model water pump with circlip in front of the bearing.also has grease nipple..strange?
i understand the shaft has to come forward but than the impeller is at the back.
how to pull the impeller out?is it a press on?.it is a thick impeller almost 3mmm thickness
i have another water pump that the impeller is about 1mm +
what my chances of pulling it without damage.is there any peugeot style trick to pull it
thanks ron
 
407, you remove a small key pressed into the shaft and you withdraw the shaft and the impeller to the rear. Don't remove the impeller from the shaft. I use 6301-2RSH SKF bearings.
 
Hi Russell this is late model pump .when i looked in the book there are 2 types of pumps.
i moved the key and the circlip in front of the bearing.it will not go back.towards the head side...
as far as understand the late pump it should push forward but than the impeller is on the way.
thanks ron
 
Sounds like you definitely have the design type in terms of bearings, and dismantling (same same 404) 12mm/15mm shaft with a built in shoulder, that needs the impeller removed first. Only then can the shaft with it's bearings be tapped/pressed out from the rear. Use a hair dryer/heat gun to warm the housing immediately before pressing/tapping out, and also when the time comes to replacing shaft with it's bearings. You would need a specific puller to remove the impeller, otherwise the impeller is easily destroyed, (tight ass interference fit). Easiest way to remove it is to press it out. Using a short length (25mm) of rod slightly smaller in diameter than the rear shaft diameter, either using a vice which has a long enough travel for the pump as well as the short piece of pushing rod, plus a 25mm block at the front end with a hole in it to allow the shaft to move forward, or the use of a hydraulic press. Puts a bit of stress on the carbon seal, but I have used this method without destroying anything. Make a note of the position of the impeller on the shaft before removing. Three things to check on the clean up of the housing, first is the seal seating area. If this shows any sign of pitting it will need to be skimmed to remove the pitting. Next, check the condition of the seal, how much meat is left? If you've got a couple of mm that's good, quick rub over the face with some 400 grit to smooth off any grooves. Next is the 'gutter and downpipe' immediately in front of the seal. These have to be clear of muck, otherwise if the seal is not doing it's job properly, and the gutter is blocked, water will eventually find it's way to the bearings, and before too long, your back to square one. After the shaft with it's new (6301 and 6302) bearings are back in the warmed up housing, to replace the impeller, use a size socket that just clears the shaft diameter and with it squarely on the shoulder of the impeller, slowly push back into original position. Rotate the shaft to check for slight seal resistance on it's seat. Attached images show early and later types of water pump. 203 pump.JPG403 pump.JPG
 
thanks for your reply .i do have the new type which is the photo on the right
 
Sounds like you definitely have the design type in terms of bearings, and dismantling (same same 404) 12mm/15mm shaft with a built in shoulder, that needs the impeller removed first. Only then can the shaft with it's bearings be tapped/pressed out from the rear. Use a hair dryer/heat gun to warm the housing immediately before pressing/tapping out, and also when the time comes to replacing shaft with it's bearings. You would need a specific puller to remove the impeller, otherwise the impeller is easily destroyed, (tight ass interference fit). Easiest way to remove it is to press it out. Using a short length (25mm) of rod slightly smaller in diameter than the rear shaft diameter, either using a vice which has a long enough travel for the pump as well as the short piece of pushing rod, plus a 25mm block at the front end with a hole in it to allow the shaft to move forward, or the use of a hydraulic press. Puts a bit of stress on the carbon seal, but I have used this method without destroying anything. Make a note of the position of the impeller on the shaft before removing. Three things to check on the clean up of the housing, first is the seal seating area. If this shows any sign of pitting it will need to be skimmed to remove the pitting. Next, check the condition of the seal, how much meat is left? If you've got a couple of mm that's good, quick rub over the face with some 400 grit to smooth off any grooves. Next is the 'gutter and downpipe' immediately in front of the seal. These have to be clear of muck, otherwise if the seal is not doing it's job properly, and the gutter is blocked, water will eventually find it's way to the bearings, and before too long, your back to square one. After the shaft with it's new (6301 and 6302) bearings are back in the warmed up housing, to replace the impeller, use a size socket that just clears the shaft diameter and with it squarely on the shoulder of the impeller, slowly push back into original position. Rotate the shaft to check for slight seal resistance on it's seat. Attached images show early and later types of water pump. View attachment 133732View attachment 133733
Great explanation. Thanks for taking the time to write and post. This will be handy later on.
Cheers,
Dan
 
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