Peugeot 308 EP6 1.6 THP revised valve cover design?

No any full code reader can do it the torque style ones just read engines mostly


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An update on the fans on the 308 running full speed from cold.

I finally got the 308 to a mechanic here at Nerang (Gold Coast, Qld).

He read off the engine codes and found an intermittant code (sorry I can't remember it :() refering to the turbo.

His repair report states "Traced to carbon in dump valve. Cleared reset codes, fans operate normally".

It appears that carbon affects more than the valves on these engines :mad:.

He did offer some misgivings about using a "decarbonising" spray in the intake owing to the danger of carbon being dislodged and damaging the engine.

At least the replacement pcv/cam cover is working correctly :).

If the fan problem recurs I will update this thread.

Thanks for everyones help.
 
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An update to my 308 cooling fans running flat out problem.
An important lesson was learnt from this exercise - read the original posts in the thread carefully (especially posts 3 and 4)!
After about 40k's operation the fans started acting up again with the same symptoms.
My wife insisted I take the car to the Peugeot dealers.
They diagnosed an error code, vacuum leak.
They found that the turbo intake pipe was “fragmented” at the turbo end and had been repaired with black tape and recommended changing the pipe.
I sourced a pipe from eBay a lot cheaper than Peugeot could supply, had it fitted and the error codes cleared.
This replacement pipe had the older style connector to the valve cover (a major clue to the problem).
The problem reoccurred after about 40ks again.
On a recommendation I took the car to another independent mechanic who diagnosed the problem as an incompatible sensor in the replacement pipe with the valve cover.
He replaced the pipe with the latest version, cleared the error codes and sent me on my way.
The problem has not recurred for over 500+ks so now I am a relatively happy camper.
Big thanks to mechanic WB – he knows his pugs!
Next to be sorted are the rattle on start-up and the daytime running lights not working even after being activated in the cars on board display.
I have attached a photo of the two turbo intake pipes for reference - the round top old version is on the left and the flat top new version is on the right fitted to the turbo. Turbo Intakes.jpg
 
RCZ TPH156 variation.

Just did this recently. I found many Mini threads & videos, but little on RCZ. Peugeot job is essentially the same except less access and more air pipework to deal with. Kit arrived, only the intake pipe was part numbered. I suspect it's Chinese cloned as price was AUD $270 all up delivered in 4 days. (1/5th the cost of PUG order). (see. Photo # & #2). On fitting the intake proved a 8mm short and had to use the old thinner turbo flange seal, a heat gun and some Popey spinich, to get it to fit.I found I didn't need to disconnect the intercooler air pipe to do the job. There is just enough wriggle room without getting to its hose clampdeep around the back. However, Peugeot decided to integrate a lifting hook as a multiple fixing arm. Trouble is it restricts access to the Left Rear cover bolt. It can be loosened with a short 6mm Allen key and bruised knuckles (see photo #2). I modified it with a notch (as per photo #3) to allow a spanner to be used if I have to repeat to process again.As for the red bung, my original cover had the port left open. I did find a probable connection tucked under the cover that was bunged, These may be for other Region's pollution controls. (See photo #4). The cover port looks like it's a pressure release valve, so unless anyone knows different it will stay unbunged. NB. I use coloured tape on anything I disconnect to give a visual reminder to reconnect.Edit: Photo attachments not working.
 
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IRAs-Frog said:
An update to my 308 cooling fans running flat out problem.
An important lesson was learnt from this exercise - read the original posts in the thread carefully (especially posts 3 and 4)!
After about 40k's operation the fans started acting up again with the same symptoms.
My wife insisted I take the car to the Peugeot dealers.
They diagnosed an error code, vacuum leak.
They found that the turbo intake pipe was “fragmented” at the turbo end and had been repaired with black tape and recommended changing the pipe.
I sourced a pipe from eBay a lot cheaper than Peugeot could supply, had it fitted and the error codes cleared.
This replacement pipe had the older style connector to the valve cover (a major clue to the problem).
The problem reoccurred after about 40ks again.
On a recommendation I took the car to another independent mechanic who diagnosed the problem as an incompatible sensor in the replacement pipe with the valve cover.
He replaced the pipe with the latest version, cleared the error codes and sent me on my way.
The problem has not recurred for over 500+ks so now I am a relatively happy camper.
Big thanks to mechanic WB – he knows his pugs!
Next to be sorted are the rattle on start-up and the daytime running lights not working even after being activated in the cars on board display.
I have attached a photo of the two turbo intake pipes for reference - the round top old version is on the left and the flat top new version is on the right fitted to the turbo.View attachment 114217
Click to expand...
Sorry for “reviving” this topic, is that even a word? lol
I happen to have a 308 1.6 thp with the same issue. Just ordered a new valve cover, got it fitted and keep getting errors on my scanner stating intake air leak. I just placed an order for the same pipes and hoping that will work.
Happy I found this thread to give me some light on where to go.
I’ll attach a photo with DTC from my car.
Cheers
 

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It's a topic that's worth reviving. It is interesting that your fan is not getting upset as in the previous example of vacuum leaks.
The end of the intake pipe where it connects with the turbo housing intake seems to be the weak link. Probably not helped by the number of times I have removed mine while doing routine repair jobs. Is yours intact?
I note that the latest engine covers have a larger (27mm) breather outlet pipe on the left-hand end. On my original cover the outlet was a push-on 21mm diameter. How did you connect your breather hose? And was there a one-way valve where it joined the main intake pipe? (my replacement pipe came with one but I never knew whether it was necessary- there wasn't one there before).
And how secure was the small Evap (?) line connection on the other side of the main pipe? On the cheap replacement pipe I bought the mouldings on the small pipe connection were very poor, and I had to improvise with small hose clamps.
And finally is the breather line connection on the right-hand end of the engine cover secure?
 
gwest said:
It's a topic that's worth reviving. It is interesting that your fan is not getting upset as in the previous example of vacuum leaks.
The end of the intake pipe where it connects with the turbo housing intake seems to be the weak link. Probably not helped by the number of times I have removed mine while doing routine repair jobs. Is yours intact?
I note that the latest engine covers have a larger (27mm) breather outlet pipe on the left-hand end. On my original cover the outlet was a push-on 21mm diameter. How did you connect your breather hose? And was there a one-way valve where it joined the main intake pipe? (my replacement pipe came with one but I never knew whether it was necessary- there wasn't one there before).
And how secure was the small Evap (?) line connection on the other side of the main pipe? On the cheap replacement pipe I bought the mouldings on the small pipe connection were very poor, and I had to improvise with small hose clamps.
And finally is the breather line connection on the right-hand end of the engine cover secure?
Click to expand...
The fan was going crazy but only on the second day, on the first day when I got the error it was still going fine. I ended up finding that the problem was with the breather hose (I believe) that’s connected behind of the pcv on the valve cover. Since after replacing with a new one that hose just won’t stay in place anymore, not sure if it’s either the o ring or the whole thing itself but since the car is at the mechanic now to fix other issue (oil filter housing gasket leak) I’m waiting for it to be back so I can get that done too.
 
andredm25 said:
The fan was going crazy but only on the second day, on the first day when I got the error it was still going fine. I ended up finding that the problem was with the breather hose (I believe) that’s connected behind of the pcv on the valve cover. Since after replacing with a new one that hose just won’t stay in place anymore, not sure if it’s either the o ring or the whole thing itself but since the car is at the mechanic now to fix other issue (oil filter housing gasket leak) I’m waiting for it to be back so I can get that done too.
Click to expand...
So got an update on the valve cover.
Apparently the PVC valve on the new valve cover is not working fine which is allowing too much vacuum in the engine. Got another cover sent by the seller and I gotta have it replaced again.
I actually noticed an air leak noise coming from it when I had it installed and that is the problem apparently.
I tried to upload a couple of videos I did with the air leak noise but it seems to be too large to upload it here
 
No reliability on the aftermarket VC's have only had one fail within 3 months and AU supplier refunded me. So bought the same from another supplier. So far so good. Reason for replacement was the OEM VC's had also failed. Same story on all 3 EP6 engines with just over 123k so these are a maintenance item.
 
dimistyle said:
No reliability on the aftermarket VC's have only had one fail within 3 months and AU supplier refunded me. So bought the same from another supplier. So far so good. Reason for replacement was the OEM VC's had also failed. Same story on all 3 EP6 engines with just over 123k so these are a maintenance item.
Click to expand...
I only really replaced because the gaskets on the OEM one were bad and I found the price on the gasket and the whole cover itself to be quite similar so got the whole thing.
Should’ve done only the gaskets lol
I’ll be trying to do the replacement myself anyway, it seems to be simple and I don’t really feel like paying another $200-300 to get that done again
 
I did an oil change on my DS5 last week and also drained the two catch cans. This was the first time I had checked them since I had fitted the new version of the engine cover. I had only covered 2402 kms in the 7 months, so a lot of short running. I drained 65 ml from the OCC on the RHS of the car (equiv to 270ml for 10k km), and <1 ml from the LHS. This was unlike the situation at the previous drain when the old leaking engine cover was still fitted (RHS 13 ml, LHS 7ml). I filled a 50 ml tube with the liquid and watched it stratify over the intervening week. A week later and the level has gone down to 38ml but the aqueous layer at the bottom hasn’t changed much. Ok, alright, I know, but things have been a bit slow down here.
 

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