Peugeot 207cc issues

P

persephone_pug

Member
Tadpole
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
20
Location
Sydney, Australia
Just had a service done on my 2007 207cc 1.6 vti and my mechanic says it has the following issues
vacuum pump oil leak
oil filter housing leak
broken rear engine mount
worn lobes on camshaft causing tapping noise
I also had him do a compression test for any coolant leaks as I smell it sometimes through aircon (no overheating, no white smoke , no coolant in oil, level ok, no wet patch on passenger floor) Couldn't find a leak but I think it's a small one in the heater core.
I also get a P0597 code with my OBDII scanner which a neighbour mechanic says is "a lazy thermostat"
It has lousy fuel economy (either 95/98) also.
So my question is what is the most urgent of the above list to get done. I know the heater core would be a big job as would have to remove dash.
I'm thinking the oil leaks are the most important. Can they be fixed with new gaskets/sealant or do I need to replace vacuum pump etc?
 
I have a 207cc Sport.

My suggestions:

Fix all oil leaks.
The engine mount is necessary for good stability in engine bay.

Worn lobes, could actually be a stretched cam chain. Have you had it replaced?

the a/c may have damp and needs a good purging. You can buy stuff for that.

If you are on the Gold Coast, I have the master Pug mechanic for you.

Cheers.

ps: keep up the oil changes. I do mine every 5,000, with filter every other time.
 
persephone_pug said:
Just had a service done on my 2007 207cc 1.6 vti and my mechanic says it has the following issues
vacuum pump oil leak
oil filter housing leak
broken rear engine mount
worn lobes on camshaft causing tapping noise
I also had him do a compression test for any coolant leaks as I smell it sometimes through aircon (no overheating, no white smoke , no coolant in oil, level ok, no wet patch on passenger floor) Couldn't find a leak but I think it's a small one in the heater core.
I also get a P0597 code with my OBDII scanner which a neighbour mechanic says is "a lazy thermostat"
It has lousy fuel economy (either 95/98) also.
So my question is what is the most urgent of the above list to get done. I know the heater core would be a big job as would have to remove dash.
I'm thinking the oil leaks are the most important. Can they be fixed with new gaskets/sealant or do I need to replace vacuum pump etc?
Click to expand...


Read this also:

https://www.etuners.gr/peugeot-citroen-thp-engine-maintenance-servicing-101/
 
The thermostat error is an open circuit.

Tapping noise in this engine may be the injection. This is noisy by itself. You need to listen carefully, perhaps with a stethoscope. This and timing chain noise is more obvious cold.

Check that the oil filter leak isn't coming from the joint with the plastic cap. If the O ring in the cap isn't fully oiled before refitting, a leak there is 100% guaranteed. If that's all it is the fix is trivial - change the filter.

I am not sure which one is the rear engine mount. There is one over the gearbox and another low down near the drive shafts. If either has gone the engine will rock with a knock on acceleration/deceleration. The mounts resist the external reactive force from the road which transmits a twisting force through the transmission and engine.

The vacuum pump is driven from the end of a camshaft. The leak is probably slight, around the shaft seal. An easy fix if needed.

In always wet Sydney at the moment heaters are starting to smell from mould growth in the heater itself. Some suitable spray put through it from the engine side might help.

The turbo version of this engine can be thirsty if you use that oomph. It can be quite economical with a light foot (though I admit this is hard).
 
207cc Sport said:
I have a 207cc Sport.

My suggestions:

Fix all oil leaks.
The engine mount is necessary for good stability in engine bay.

Worn lobes, could actually be a stretched cam chain. Have you had it replaced?

the a/c may have damp and needs a good purging. You can buy stuff for that.

If you are on the Gold Coast, I have the master Pug mechanic for you.

Cheers.

ps: keep up the oil changes. I do mine every 5,000, with filter every other time.
Click to expand...
Does fixing of oil leaks just involve gasket and sealant or replacement of parts e.g vacuum pump? I just had oil filter changed with the service and that's when he identified leak? I'll purchase the engine mount
Timing chain was replaced at 99k before I bought the car four years ago. It now has 185k on it so could be stretched I suppose.
Air conditioning is working fine but I get assorted whiffs of either coolant, burning oil or rotten egg gas (and I use either 95 or 98 fuel). This is not all the time but tends to happen together when I smell them. What's the stuff called and where do I put it?
I am doing two trips to Brisbane, one I'm flying up but I will be driving up in June so could visit your Pug expert then
Also for the last three days now I have had a depollution system faulty message and my OBDII scanner gives me a P2178 code now as well.
Could this have anything to do with the fact that my trusted mechanic who has done a great job previously has put 5W/40 oil in the car instead of 5W/30 like I have always used (either Nulon or Castrol) previously. Thankyou for your help
 
P2178. It is running rich off idle (the computer is said to be injecting too much fuel for the air flow). Check the upper oxygen sensor, just above the catalytic converter. Living in the hot exhaust, it eventually fails, which will produce a depollution fault message.

Check where the oil filter housing leak is. It might be against the block, but a leaking cap after service is much more common and easier to fix.

Timing chain wear produces a distinctive rattle.

If the oil was the Penrite product of that grade it will be ok.

Go to a car place like Supercheap, etc, and get one of the aircon deodorising products, about $30. Spray it into the cabin air intake with the heater/ac fan running. You want it to get to the coils.
 
seasink said:
The thermostat error is an open circuit.

Tapping noise in this engine may be the injection. This is noisy by itself. You need to listen carefully, perhaps with a stethoscope. This and timing chain noise is more obvious cold.

Check that the oil filter leak isn't coming from the joint with the plastic cap. If the O ring in the cap isn't fully oiled before refitting, a leak there is 100% guaranteed. If that's all it is the fix is trivial - change the filter.

I am not sure which one is the rear engine mount. There is one over the gearbox and another low down near the drive shafts. If either has gone the engine will rock with a knock on acceleration/deceleration. The mounts resist the external reactive force from the road which transmits a twisting force through the transmission and engine.

The vacuum pump is driven from the end of a camshaft. The leak is probably slight, around the shaft seal. An easy fix if needed.

In always wet Sydney at the moment heaters are starting to smell from mould growth in the heater itself. Some suitable spray put through it from the engine side might help.

The turbo version of this engine can be thirsty if you use that oomph. It can be quite economical with a light foot (though I admit this is hard).
Click to expand...

seasink said:
P2178. It is running rich off idle (the computer is said to be injecting too much fuel for the air flow). Check the upper oxygen sensor, just above the catalytic converter. Living in the hot exhaust, it eventually fails, which will produce a depollution fault message.

Check where the oil filter housing leak is. It might be against the block, but a leaking cap after service is much more common and easier to fix.

Timing chain wear produces a distinctive rattle.

If the oil was the Penrite product of that grade it will be ok.

Go to a car place like Supercheap, etc, and get one of the aircon deodorising products, about $30. Spray it into the cabin air intake with the heater/ac fan running. You want it to get to the coils.
Click to expand...
Yes I am aware they blow O2 sensors but I regularly check the sensors with OBDII scanner and they pass. I'm taking it back to my mechanic when I can get a day or two off work leading into a weekend. That way he can give it a good going over as all work I get done at moment is on a Saturday morning as I work full time. I don't hear a rattle it's more of a tapping. I have a Supercheap around the corner from work so will get the aircon stuff today Thanks
 
Update:
As of last Friday morning whilst I was driving to work on the M4 I no longer have a working Peugeot 207cc. It beeped three times and gave me the STOP oil pressure low warning. I'd pulled over into a break down bay just before Prospect Road exit. I thought I'd get it off the M4 and onto the Prospect Highway and only made it to before the roundabout when it died. Battery light came on, no compression etc. It was towed to Automaster Mt Druitt (as I could only get a tow from AAMI roadside assist up to 20k) these were my previous mechanics (as the owner owns a Peugeot convertible) They are saying the cambelt went and I need a new engine. If anyone knows of an available engine with low ks please let me know. Its a 2007 207cc 1.6 vti petrol VIN:VF3WB5FWF33996395. I have weighed up all the pros and cons over the weekend and I still want this car on the road if at all possible. Thanks
 
A pity. They are smart little cars.

The EP engine uses a timing chain, not a belt. Either way, its loss means severe damage. Oil pressure loss isn't an obvious cause, as the pump isn't driven by the chain. How bad was that oil leak? Did you locate it?

It's not a good idea to drive off the busy road when that message comes up - pull over and turn off immediately.

The 5FW 88 kW version of the engine is used in several Peugeots and Citroens.
 
Yes I know it uses a timing chain and I meant to call it that but just quickly posted. The timing chain was done at 99k by the previous owners of the car I have the invoice to prove it. That contributed to me buying the car in the first place, as I know they are due to go at 100k, approx and also that the car is immaculate inside and out. I have owned it for four years and it now has 185k on it. There was no indication of the chain going no noise just the beeps and message. It did have noise at cold start but more of a tapping noise than a rattle. The oil leaks were at the vacuum pump and oil filter housing but I never saw any oil patch under the car. I was occasionally smelling burning oil and rotten egg smell (but I use 95 or 98 fuel). It had also just had a full service by my other mechanic at Mulgrave who I trust more than Automaster at Mt Druitt to diagnose problems (I couldn't get the tow by AAMI to him as he was 28kms away). I'd really like a second opinion on it as he first said it could be the oil pressure switch has just gone. I have rung around quite a few places and they don't have any 5FW 88 kW engines available.
 
You can normally tow it where you like beyond the typical free 20km if you pay their excess towing charges. You are probably better off towing it to the mechanic you prefer, even now.

The vacuum pump leak may be the o-ring seal between the pump and head. Part# 455622 and it's an o-ring 61.5x56x2.75. If it's not this, it may be leaking from an o-ring under the pump cover. It's a large o-ring that Mini may sell this separately, but Pug doesn't. The pump is different for turbo vs non-turbo.

The filter housing oil leak can be via a gasket between the filter housing and block. Pug lists it only with with the filter housing, but you can buy it aftermarket separately and I think also from Mini. It's also possible the filter dome cover wasn't tightened properly at the service and so it's leaking. This does happen.

Does it still have oil in it or has it all been lost and hence the oil pressure warning? The oil pressure fault arose before what you think is a timing chain failure, so you'd look there first to know what's going on. The 5W40 shouldn't have done this, but it wants 5W30 or 0W30 per PSA. The thicker oil might reduce the oil consumption in an older engine. The oil pump is driven by its own chain, so unless that broke, the pump should still pump oil. It might have had a failure of the oil control solenoid or the wiring that controls it - there should be some faults to help the diagnosis. In case an aftermarket filter caused the oil pressure issue, the correct filter is 1109AH, replaced by 9818914980, with the less expensive Eurorepar line alternative being under part# 1629084080.

Can it still be turned over by hand? Chains do stretch and you should stick with factory parts if replacing the chain kit. If there has been a failure, it is more likely that something like the top guide has broken and dropped parts down and broken up the the other plastic guides. Broken bits of plastic guides might have caused the chain to skip some teeth and you would find bits in the oil pickup. You will need to remove the rocker cover and probably the sump to have a look if you think the chain has failed. See if the flats on the cams are very close to the same position. They should lie flat with the crank pinned at TDC and even a well stretched chain shouldn't allow them to be out more than about 10 degrees. The cams and sprockets are not keyed, should be fitted dry and the bolts are single use. So, the cam sprockets can turn relative to the cam and throw the timing out. Worst case you are looking at some bent valves and/or a broken piston.

This engine is used in some C4 (B7 range) models and others. It has variable valve lift operated by a separate shaft with a sector gear and a worm drive motor. The worm drive and sector gear teeth wear out, which is expensive to fix, so try to find a low kms engine if replacing. Your existing engine might have this problem and it can cause faults.

How do you know it has no compression as mentioned?
 
Hi everyone.
I have some good news I have bought another Peugeot 207cc. It is 4 years younger so 2011 model and with only 62k on it. It is in pristine condition with full log books, just serviced, a full years rego and it is exactly the same colour as my previous one Thorium Grey. So I have the old one in my garage for parts. I had a retrofit Focal speaker system and Kenwood single din and various other things that I'll get put into the new one eventually. My mechanic is going over it on Saturday as I am driving to Kirra Beach next week for a holiday. Someone on here I think mentioned a great Pug mechanic on the Gold Coast I'd be interested to get his details too. Does anyone know how to get into the boot of a Pug with a dead battery?
 
persephone_pug said:
Hi everyone.
I have some good news I have bought another Peugeot 207cc. It is 4 years younger so 2011 model and with only 62k on it. It is in pristine condition with full log books, just serviced, a full years rego and it is exactly the same colour as my previous one Thorium Grey. So I have the old one in my garage for parts. I had a retrofit Focal speaker system and Kenwood single din and various other things that I'll get put into the new one eventually. My mechanic is going over it on Saturday as I am driving to Kirra Beach next week for a holiday. Someone on here I think mentioned a great Pug mechanic on the Gold Coast I'd be interested to get his details too. Does anyone know how to get into the boot of a Pug with a dead battery?
Click to expand...
Hey Pal, I'm happy you sticked with the 207cc line. I've had my since brand new in 2009. Done 145,000 now. I've replaced nearly everything (except engine and g/box) over this period. My French Tart is running so beautifully now. Been looked after by Wayne for the last seven years.

My Master Peugeot mechanic on the Gold Coast is Wayne. He even contracts to the local Peugeot dealership. He looks after my 207cc THP150 and my RCZ Mk 2 THP200. You can contact him on 0413 942 026 . Tell him the French Tart sent ya.

IMG_0330.jpg


PEUGEOT-RCZ-4094_49 2.jpg

My
 
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